naru

Pretty sure 1&2 share a coil. Must be a wire(shorting to ground) or coil problem.

If both heater hoses are at least hot/warm flow should be OK.How did it seem when you flushed it? If the hoses are hot,maybe one of the heater control doors is flapping in the breeze.

You might be right about the vacuum leak. I would swap IACs.I don`t think code 24 would set just because of low rpms,but,I may be wrong. Nothing more profound at the moment,sorry.

Check compression when you change spark plugs.

I`d agree w/the faulty meter theory except for the coincident onset of difficult starting.

From weird to weirder.... I`m starting to understand why the wiring harness was changed. It is very unlikely you got 2 electricaly pooched injectors from the wrecker. Have you measured the resistance of any of them? Tach problem is likely related to the cam sensor fault. 1-Verify constant 12 volts on one side of the injector connectors. 2-Verify continuity of the wiring harness between the injector/cam sensor plugs and the ECU.A pinout diagram would be helpful,but,not absolutely necessary.The 1992 EJ-22 manual here will help. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx 3-Verify integrity of the ECU grounds. 4-See if unplugging the TPS affects the demonic humming.

Sounds like the MAF. Read the codes,if possible.

Maybe this? "It doesn't seem to do the bubble blowing thing unless I let it cool all the way down."

Given the suddeness of the problem,I would also look for cracked or disconnected vacuum lines. A fuel pressure test may be helpful.

It may be a problem with the coolant temperature sensor. You can check it with an ohmmeter. At -15C the resistance should be more than 7000 ohms. There is a factory shop manual for the north american version of your car here:http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

+1 on the plugged filter screen May well explain the noisy pump. Short of checking fuel pressure,a flow test as suggested is a good idea. I would compare the flow from the tank to the flow from another source. (the pump is not in the tank)

That will do it!

Bad accellerator pump in the carb(make sure it squirts) or bad secondary ignition parts(plugs, wires,cap,rotor) are the most common causes of your complaint.

Kinda sounds like the cooling system may have a vacuum leak that allows air to enter instead of just coolant from the overflow bottle when shut down.Sometimes these leaks are one-way(no coolant loss) I would heat up the engine w/the rad cap off,shut down and reinstall the cap,and then attach a vacuum pump and gauge to the overflow to see if the system holds vacuum. Or,just disconnect the overflow bottle and put the gauge(only) at the end of the tube. It should pull and hold vacuum as it cools down. Or, just tighten the hose clamps.

OEM to be safe.Get Hitachi if your original is Hitachi. There have been some reports of short ignition module life after installation of aftermarket coils apparently because of too low primary resistance. I don`t see any problem w/a properly selected one,but,I would go junkyarding.

Coil secondary between 7000-14,000 ohms depending. Check the carbon contact inside the disty cap too.

You need to tee into the supply line to the rail.Don`t deadhead the pump. Around 36psi above atmospheric,IIRC.Less w/running engine w/intake vacuum.

If you have voltage at coil positive but not at coil negative,the coil is burnt out. Use a test light, if no meter.

Start by checking the fuel pressure.

Coil would be one of my last guesses. Primary winding will be about 1 ohm. Check for an open winding/bad fuse by looking for 12V at coil- w/key on. Test light on coil - should light up and flash while cranking. If no flashing then most likely a bad ignition module. If it doesn`t light up then bad fuse/coil(try coil +) Check resistance of the coil wire. You don`t have an ignition amplifier.

Your 81 takes fuel pump voltage directly from the voltage regulator as a safety feature.Engine not running=no voltage=no fuel pump. Alternator or regulator problems can result in no fuel pump on 81s.

You are cutting off the fuel supply by cranking w/the throttle floored. Your symptoms fit those of a leaky injector.Usually worse warm,but,anything is possible. Might want to check the TPS too. Try disconnecting the CTS as well.

I would unplug the ecu and measure resistance between #4 injector ground(at inj plug) and battery - while moving the harness around. Should be infinite.

Remove the injector.See if you can blow through it. Check to see if the injector wire has made contact w/the body w/an ohmmeter. Could reset the codes,pull the fuel pump fuse,try to start,and see if code 17 comes back. Measure the resistance of the injectors.

New theory. First one plugged. Second one stuck. Code came from testing.