naru

Maybe,or maybe #4 injector signal was bad enough to cause a misfire but not bad enough to trigger OBD1 dignostics. Or,there is an unrelated problem on 4. There were no fuel clouds w/the first injector.Could be residual,I suppose.

I`m thinking it more likely is an ecu fault after all. If the signal wire isn`t shorted to ground and the miss/fuel dump persists at 4 after swapping injectors from 4 to 2 I`d start to suspect the ecu. All provided the injector is not obviously stuck. It woud be nice to check #4 injector signal w/a dwellmeter or scope.

I`m having trouble seeing how a stuck injector would set code 17 w/o any disruption in the electrical circuit. An injector/ecu wire that grounded out to the chassis could give massive fuel and a code though. I would unplug the ecu and measure resistance between #4 injector ground(at inj plug) and battery - while moving the harness around before trying another injector.Or just take the old injector out and try to blow through it.

Computer fault is unlikey,probably mechanical. Got any trouble codes? Changed the plug wires? Does it only miss at idle? If so,a vacuum leak is likely.Or poor valve seating. Is #4 plug wet w/fuel? Can you hear the injector click through a hose? I would check compression. Plenty of other possibilities w/the computer at the bottom of the list.

Higher oil temps and blowby at highway speed are surely factors. Power loss is probably due to the knock sensor pulling back timing because of detonation caused by oil in the combustion chamber. Conversely,a malfunctioning knock sensor may allow detonation and resultant oil consumption. Replace the PCV valve,but,don`t expect miracles. Use higher weight oil if possible. I have a non-sube w/similar symptoms.No smoke either.

Rear shoes(if equipped) not adjusting. Bad proportioning valve. Leaky master. Air. Ballooning flex line(unlikely) The bleed procedure sounds shakey to me.Could clamp off the flex lines to eliminate effects of air in the wheel cyl./calipers(but not elsewhere). Booster seems fine. My money is on the master.Could test by plugging the output ports,but,for all the trouble,I would just change it after checking rear shoe clearance and perhaps rebleeding.

Wild rump roast guess-A wheel speed sensor has been damaged by the snow.

Yeah,that will be the pump. Increased noise isn`t always a sign of impending doom. Mine has been noisy forever. I would change the fuel filter regardless as a plugged filter makes the pump work harder.

That paticular TVV doesn`t have anything to do w/the cannister. It vents the carb bowl to atmosphere thru the self contained air filter on the BVV above 60C. It also opens calibrated air bleeds in the carb to lean the mixture a little. Sounds like the BVVV is bad.Probably why it was disconnected. It should hold vacuum applied to the lower port.(bet it doesn`t) Since your car runs well,I wouldn`t be too concerned,but, it might be even better w/a junkyard part.

That solenoid sure looks like "Solenoid valve I". The black part that turns is an air filter. Should have 2 vacuum connections on the other side,though.

I think that is the "bowl vent vacuum valve". The other end of the line should tee into "thermovalve IV" which is mounted on an insulator on the intake just to the drivers side of the carb. It should tee into a line from the "air control vacuum valve" before attaching to the themovalve. The air control vacuum valve is similar w/4 ports.

What year/model?4wd? Calif? O2 sensor equipped? Where exactly does the connected hose connect?

Hopefully,a missing misfire,but,probably not much difference.

The air gap between the reluctor on the shaft and the stator is only .012-.020".1/16 is .062",so that would be way too much wear. The reluctor would be making contact w/the stator before then. Perhaps that is why the bearing was dislodged. I wouldn`t be surprised if the magnet is cracked.

I think the main problem is that at least 1 of the 3 bearings has fallen out of the pickup coil plate assembly due to wear and the magnet/stator is flopping around.

Looks like your rig is 4wd so it will be a Hitachi. Any Hitachi will be OK ,but,best to match the part #s stamped on side if you can. ID a hitachi by observing the ignition module w/the distributor shaft passing directly thru. All non-turbo 4wds used 42987 8110 pre 84.Some others after that which are different according to trans,Calif.etc

You`ve lost a bearing out of the point plate assembly. Look for a new distrbutor. Check bushing wear by attempting to move the shaft side to side.

That is the fuel pressure regulator.They don`t normally plug up.Q-tips? Not sure if that is a ground wire or not.

Fix that wire!

It will suck grit into the engine and blow oil out.

Seeing how the front mount has a good amount of movement,that is likely it.If you can put your hand on the mount while it is clunking,that will confirm the diagnosis. Recently did a motor mount on a Focus that was real noisy.More so when turning one direction in that case.

Tailights are on fuse 11.Look for power here. VSS is on the back of the speedo w/the cable. Take the following w/a grain of salt as it is based on an 84 FSM,not 83. Likely the same,but,who knows? For starters,locate the 4 pin pink and 17 pin yellow check connectors under the left side of the dash. Put your voltmeter between the yellow/red wire in the 4 pin and the black/red wire at one end of the 17 pin. You want to see more than 2.0 volts. If less,unplug the instrument panel and try again.

To get you started,my 83 owners manual shows fuse 12 feeding the ignition coil and fuel pump. Suggest you get a circuit breaker to sub for the fuse for testing purposes.

I am starting to believe that some motors do superimpose a high rpm timing retard on the otherwise advanced high altitude timing.The theory is a little obtuse,though. Timing advance is part of most high altitude mods. Any motor w/high altitude high rpm timing retard also has high altitude timing advance.Not vice versa,IMO. Still interested to hear of some examples/theory.