naru

This is illogical. Can you provide an example/theoretical support?

This is backwards.If anything,timing will be advanced at higher altitudes. For instance,an 84 ea-81t will advance timing 5 degrees above 4600'. Carbed cars will lean the mixture if they are altitude compensated. If swapping carbs,I would be concerned about the lack of carb pre-heat that comes w/the hokey weber airfilters.

EA-81s operated mainly above 4000' were required to have "high altitude kits" by the EPA. I imagine the same applied to EA-82s. I think your car will run at 10,000'.Might be a little rich. Might want to check out TSB #025888 from JAN 88 re high altitude kit.

7110 is for 83 turbos. 7210 for 84 federal turbos. 7210 incorporates a high altitude switch and supports trouble code 41. According to Subaru,"the connector terminal arrangement has been altered". Likely not completely plug and play,but,not a big difference either.

Plenty of ignitors at car-part.com.$10 up. As long as the white/yellow wire at the square connector carries ignition pulses from the ECM while cranking,you can forget about ecm/harness issues.Use a low current LED type test light/dmm to avoid damaging the ecm w/too high current draw. Resistance measurments are meaningless when applied to transistors. The "diode check" function of a multimeter can however provide useful info.

Probably flooding. Float too high? Tank pick-up problem wouldn`t show up for a moment or two. Bad gas would be bad on left turns too.

Look for corrosion etc.at the green fusible link near the battery. Measure the voltage on both sides w/ecm plugged in.

Check the ECM ground by putting your voltmeter between the black/red wire in #8 position in the same connector and battery ground.Note the reading w/key on and while cranking.Any significant voltages indicates a bad ground. Ohmmeter in the same position should read 0 ohms w/key off. If all else fails,pull the ECM plug and look for battery voltage at pin 26 red. Test the ECS light by grounding pin 29 red/blue.

Find the 9 pin red check connector under the dash.Look for power on the white/black wire w/key on to confirm the ignition relay operation.

Check the ignition relay.

Probably not the ecm.They are quite robust.That said,I run one w/a failed fuel pump driver.LOL. Does the ECS light on the dash come on? Got power at the injectors? Shielded ignition signal wire connected to coil -? Fusible links good? You can read trouble codes off of the ECM led by removing a trim panel under the drivers knees and connecting the green? test connectors IIRC. Welcome to the board.

The 10 digit Subaru part #s on the distys may provide more insight. Parts book shows 3 different "correct" distributors for an 85 ea-82t. 22100 AA062,AA220 and AA221. I suspect these correspond to the 3 Hitachi #s quoted. For some reason,book says,the higher #s sub for the lower ones but not vice versa.Also says,AA220 is for build dates up to oct 84,AA221 thereafter thru the 86 MY. Seems suspicious that the vacuum diaphragms are different on yours. Additionly,book shows 3 different non-interchangible distributor wiring harnesses for 85/6 ea-82ts. Could be wrong,but,I faintly recall someone mentioning having to move wires around in the connector. I would check that the wires are routed identicaly. Just found a D4R84-51. I can confirm that it is also Subaru 22100 AA221.

Yep,all 4 at once. Early EA-82T is L-jetronic.Later are LH http://bama.ua.edu/~darren/bosch/Page17.html

Since you have an ignition signal at the transistor and a known good coil,the transistor or its ground is bad.

This is exactly backwards. The engine has LOW vacuum under heavy load but,has higher blowby. The engine has HIGH vacuum when coasting downhill. Sounds like blowby is pressurizing the crankcase forcing oil into the combustion chambers. Short of a rebuild,I would make sure the PCV tubes are clear,PCV valve OK,and change to a heavier oil.

FWIW,NGK catalog lists 8002 for 84 brats(turbo or non).9350 for all other 84 ea-81s,9336 for non brat turbos and 8001 for ea-71s

Your original carb will be a Hitachi DCJ306-8. Used $30 and up at http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Sounds like the filter sock in the fuel tank is plugging up as the car drives. Some of the crud falls off w/no suction while stopped. Test drive it w/a fuel pressure gauge attached to be sure.

Pretty sure you are talking about the trans/body ground wire. If nothing bad happens w/the key in the run position,but only while cranking the engine,it is a sure sign of a faulty engine ground(may look OK). I would test the main engine ground by disconnecting the smoking wire and putting a voltmeter between battery - and the engine block.Should be no more than 0.5V while cranking. If that doesn`t find a problem,I would unplug all electrical items from the trans and see if the smoking wire is still overloaded. Might want to look at the battery/body ground too.

Not sure which wire you mean,but,I would start by making sure the ENGINE is well grounded.

Swap the old wires/plugs? back in. Check resistance of the new wires. Make sure coil top is clean.

Put a test light on coil -.It should pulse as the engine is cranked. If it doesn`t, you can be pretty sure the ignition module in the disty or the wires to it are bad. If it is the module ,you will need a new one or a complete distributor. Not sure which module you have,but,the air gap is the distance between the fingers of the reluctor(under the rotor) and the surrounding piece. I wouldn`t be overly concerned about it.

Possibly flooding from a leaky injector. Next time it doesn`t start,try cranking it over w/the throttle floored to clear it out. If that doesn`t work,check for spark.

Pretty sure only AC equipped EA-81Ts had the engine driven clutch fan.Mine doesn`t have one.

The ported vacuum temp switch disables the EGR and vacuum advance when the engine is cold by bleeding off the ported vacuum signal into the aircleaner.Some subaru engines use a computer controled solenoid in the bleed line as well.Some don`t.Not sure about yours.