naru

Keep the EGR. Nothing gained from deleting it,but,there are things to lose. Ignition timing curve will no longer be optimal at cruise speed(too advanced). If you retard intial timing to compensate,you will be under advanced at other times. 2nd more complex and likely minor issue is engine pumping losses. Any engine is basicly an air pump.W/o EGR at cruising speed you are forcing it to pump extra air.Nothing is free. Everything else being equal,I would expect detonation w/light acceleration from cruising speed and slightly decreased gas mileage. Someone is sure to say "I don`t have detonation after removing MY EGR." Either they can`t hear it or ignition timing wasn`t advanced enough before removal.

Under the dash,extreme LH side,I think. Relay is built into the FPCU. Fuel pump should run on 10V. Might want to check pump ground.

Tach signal will be on coil -,not +.

A V groove electrode. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/partnumberkey.pdf

No need to guess about the smoke.Your engine is old and worn. Coasting downhill w/closed throttle at highish RPMs creates a high vacuum which pulls oil past the valve guides/rings.Short of a rebuild,new valve seals may help.

Since pinching the FPR inlet made no difference,I suspect the fuel pump or the power supply to it.Sounds like it may be running on residual fuel pressure.Working after cool down suggests the same.

Loose wheel bearing. Jack it up and attempt to wiggle the wheel to check.

I`m guessing the vaccuum diaphragm is good. Easy enough to test w/a spare piece of vaccuum line and lung power. Make sure it holds vaccuum and the pick-up coil plate under the disty cap moves smoothly. I`m thinking rotation of the plate disturbs the pick-up coil wires or perhaps the plate mounting (bushing?) is worn and the plate moves to a funky position w/vac. advance.Have a look. 2nd possibility comes to mind. If it runs better w/the vac. advance line unhooked but not plugged,an over rich mixture is suspect.Flooding carb maybe? Worth looking at the fuel level in the sight glass if possible. I would expect a poor/no idle in this case however.

No specs,but,parts book shows different #s. 15020 aa011 for the cam tower springs.

Most likely,the cam operated park switch inside the wiper motor is gone. Small chance it could be bad contacts in the main control switch too(part of it needs to conduct current in the "off" position).

The red ones look to be check connectors.They don`t plug into anything on the car.

The high vacuum created when the throttle is closed at higher rpms is pulling oil past the intake valve guides and/or oil rings.This oil burns off when you reopen the throttle. With 270K,this is not surprising. Hard to see how a muffler change would affect this,but,perhaps the reduced backpressure from the straight pipe is allowing the vacuum to go slightly higher than before. Short of a rebuild,replacing the intake valve seals may help.

13 gauge has real close to twice the cross section of 16 gauge. 2 14`s in parallel is like an 11. see this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

Two 16 gauge wires in parallel would be the electrical equivilent of a single 13 gauge wire,not an 8.(between 13 -14 actually)

Got spark but no injection,correct? Make sure there is a grey shielded wire attached to coil -. This wire supplies ign. pulse info to the ecm.No wire,no run. After ten years,injectors may simply be stuck. Does the injector voltage pulse on one side as the engine is cranked? Almost sounds like the ECM is unpowered except for the FP action. Might want to check for unswitched power on ECM pin 26(red) and switched power on pin 24 (white/black). Look for a corroded ground too. Doubtful the ECM is bad. 83 turbo ecm would be the only swap and IIRC even they have minor differences. Got compression?

The diodes are bad.

Probably a bad ground at the tailights. Test by running a wire from battery - to the talight ground.

Quick answer,Yes, parts book shows different #s.

If a test light illuminates but does not flash on coil -while cranking,it is most likely a flaky ignition module in the disty. Try another.

No actual "primary/secondary" (hence the quation marks),but one throttle shaft drives the other.

The aviation style cam gives less airflow than normal at LOW rpm,not more. Splitting the diminished airflow in half w/a synchronous 2bbl results in an even weaker venturi vacuum signal. I would try removing the gear that drives the "secondary" from the throttle shaft and running the carb as a 1bbl. Since the Weber 38-27mm venturi is only 1mm larger than the 26mm Weber 32/36 primary venturi,this would result in low load venturi vacuum very similar to the 32/36 sucessfully run by many. Or,try larger idle jets. Some folks have reported running the Weber 38/38 on stock engines w/o major problems. For curiosity`s sake-What is the manifold vacuum?

I think your camshaft is unsuitible for low rpm operation.

Cracked head.

I think they all fire together twice per camshaft revolution.

If the dust resembles rust,it is a sure sign the disty is ground firing.(Spark is jumping to the shaft).Fits your symptoms. Haven`t seen this on a sube yet. GM HEI ignitions are prone to this. Spark jumps straight thru the plastic rotor to the shaft. If you look carefully,you will see the telltale arc marks. I would replace the rotor and check the plugs and plug wire resistance.