naru

If this is w/the hose plugged,the brake booster leaks. If this is w/the hose uncapped,you have too much fuel for some reason. Bad FPR Plugged return line Leaky injector Faulty MAF Faulty CTS Any codes? Pretty sure you don`t need a reader. Try running it w/the CTS and O2 unplugged.

Loose wheel bearings? Jack it up and try to shake the wheels around.

Yeah, that`s the test.Or you could watch the voltage instead.(this confirms power from the meter) FSM says: DL 52@175F,23@220F GL 154@120F,18@240F Should be other flaky stuff if the ground is bad.

When the hoses are in the correct position,ignition should be less advanced at idle. Considering ported and manifold vacuum are the same once the throttle is opened a little, I wouldn`t expect major differences.Idle speed will almost certainly be lower w/hoses correctly connected.Possibly smoother. Engine may warm up slightly quicker. If you end up changing things, you should readjust the idle mixture and speed too.

Make sure the vapour vent valve is plugged in.Check winding resistance.

You don`t have two vac. advances.One is a vac. retard port connected to the opposite side of the diaphragm.It provides improved emission control during closed throttle operation. The retard side should see manifold vac. The advance side should see ported vac. w/warm engine. Sounds to me like the lines are reversed. Pulse system code is unrelated.

I suspect the 5V one is for the ECU,12V for the dash gauge. The answers you seek are in the ej22 manual here.PartII,page 62 http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Probably 5V.

And it is supported by the statement that " special tools and expertise is needed to replace the bearing"

Forget the dealer,they will probably find a way to mess it up. Do it yourself.Quite easy. That is a dumb book.

Flex lines too. They can act as a one way valve sometimes.

Start by checking for a loose vacuum line. Make sure fuel level is at the middle of the sight glass. Inspect disty cap and rotor.

Flush your brake fluid. Clean and lubricate the moving parts properly.

Check for 12V on both sides of the injectors(connected) w/key on to rule out unwanted grounding.

Leaky injector most likely. ECU or wiring fault possible though.Any codes showing?

Not a good idea. Carb vent needs to see atmospheric pressure in order to maintain proper pressure differential between the air above the fuel in the float bowl and the main discharge in the venturi.This pressure difference determines how much fuel is delivered. Tank vent line will see both + and - pressure. If you must remove the cannister,vent both lines to atmosphere.

Personal parts book-then looked up #s at 1st subaru. You can probably find a parts book at one of the bit torrent sites. I`ve found them for almost everything I`ve looked for.(except 84 subaru) Some are from seemingly unlikely sources,like the mazda parts book from Russia.LOL Those parts at transmission supply are USED.You already have some of those. Might as well replace the 2 springs and 3 little "detent keys" while you are in there. 32603aa000 springs $3 32609aa010 keys INSERT SHIFTING 1 2 This item is Discontinued, OOPS

Start by checking fuel level in carby sight glass.

1st subaru says 32601aa000 $117.52 $84.61 HUB SYNCHRO 1 2 This item is Discontinued 32604AA013 $38.37 $27.62 RING BAULK 1-2 Need build date for part ID

Mostly just the price. Fact is, some people prefer to pay a higher price.Makes them think they are getting something better. Subaru doesn`t manufacture this stuff. Here is an intersting comment from another site on the subject: "OK, fair enough. I did some more research on-line and also spoke with a rep at Bosch USA. Here is what I found out: 1) Yes, Super Class vs. Regular Class is marketing hype. It does not exist with Bosch. The retailer admitted the difference was only Exact Fit vs Universal Fit. 2) The universal fit and exact fit part for my car have somewhat different sensors, but the rep did not feel the difference was enough to be detectable through either driving performance, gas mileage or emissions. 3) The exact fit part is exactly the same as the original. No changes to the design nor materials has been made. 4) The smart link connector that comes with the Bosch Universal has been around for some time and has proven itself to be very reliable. The rep recommended it without reservation for anyone looking for a cost effective solution. 5) The rep did not believe an O2 sensor that behaved properly when tested by appropriate diagnostic equipment needed to be replaced, regardless of the mileage. "

no!

Pull the ECU plug and make sure there is voltage on pin2 (RL) from the bulb w/key on.

Doesn`t mean a thing.

Change the spark plugs. Make sure the accl. pump in the carb squirts.

I think the head gasket leaking compression between 2&4 is the most likely scenario. Could confirm by putting compressed air into #2 at TDC of compression stroke and listening for escaping air at #4.Listen at the exhaust,intake and oil filler while your at it. IMO, the head needs to come off.