naru

Should relieve crankcase pressure OK,but,provide no real ventilation. Pre-PCV engines had a road draft tube extending to a slightly lower air pressure area near the bottom of the engine thereby creating airflow thru the crankcase while moving. IMO, If one of your breathers had an outlet near the oil pan,you would have at least rudimentry ventilation.

Probably not your problem,but I`ll throw it out there. I have a BMW that will seize (rust) the clutch plate to the flywheel after long storage in a humid climate. "Cure" is to lift a drive wheel and slam on the brakes.

Page 242 http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

If this were the case,there would be more than one click.

Test light flickers for all cyl.-see post #10. Injector problems have no bearing on compression.

Since the solenoid clicks,it is moving and adding a reley is unlikely to help. If headlights go dim at the same time,check battery and connections. If headlights stay bright,it is bad solenoid contacts or less likely,a starter problem.

Any ideas what code?

Not completely true. At wide throttle openings(low manifold vacuum,high blowby),PCV is unable to handle the flow and blowby gases are routed to the carb intake.

Part number 806912070 was superseded by part number 13089AA010-$2 Your parts guys leave something to be desired.

8069 12070 for the 12 x 1.9mm one 8069 58010 for the 58 x 2mm one (cam support)

Sounds like you got it. Clean the connection and bury it in grease to keep the air away.Works great.Never have had a connection problem since doing this.

Local independent jobber. NAPA was about the same-had to order from VAN. Any local auto supply should be able to get them. Used to visit Terrace when a trip to the "city" was needed. Loved the old rickety single lane bridge across the swirling Skeena. A thrill every time. LOL Bears in the backyard were fun too.

Yes,and the local parts store too. IIRC,they are a little harder to replace than some others as some of the leads are welded because of the high current. Recently had the same trouble on a non-sube Hitachi starter. Best to buy the complete brush holder w/brushes welded in already. I paid $40 CDN. Similar to these http://www.wagneralt.com/catalog/books/Cat%2050%20Brush%20Holders%202006.pdf

Worn starter brushes possibly. Solenoid pull-in coil is energized thru the brushes.Bad contact =no solenoid pull in.Clutch movement jiggles the brushes just enough. Or the clutch sw.It will be near the pedal.Jump around it or test for voltage drop across it w/a voltmeter.

What more do you need?

Check for an overheated harness connector to the ignition switch. Follow the noise.

Stock system works well.Nothing to be gained.Common sense.

Ignitor

Well then..., Make sure you have power at coil - w/engine cranking. If so,Test light will flash if disty is OK. Make sure coil is grounded to engine. Check coil wire w/ohmmeter.

Biggest waste of money I can think of.It is not an "upgrade".

+1

Codes might help. I`m guessing,since it cleared after holding the throttle down,there was too much fuel for some reason or a plug was fouled w/coolant. Did one of the plugs look significantly different?Blacker?Cleaner? Suspect you may have an injector that is sticky w/cold. Plenty of other possibilities though.

Ended up grinding away a significant part of the stud too,IIRC.

I had to lengthen the slot in my ea-81t.

Make sure the test light flashes when connected to the non-yellow wire while cranking(everything connected). Timing belt skip seems possible.Compression test?