naru

Valves aren`t moving.Nothing to compress.

Big clues.

Just to be clear,all the wires should have power w/injectors connected. ECU fires the injector by connecting the non yellow wire to ground. If you have power on yellow,but not the other wire w/inj. connected,inj is open or connection is bad.

Running OK before the cooling sys. repair? Should rev in neutral even w/poor fuel delivery. Only one I had that wouldn`t rev in neutral had a badly plugged cat. Try a vacuum gauge. Sounds like plug wires incorrectly positioned.

Clogging of only those 2 seems unlikely. Put a test light on the other injector lead to verify ECU is firing the injectors(should flash).

Instructions http://www.vsm.skf.com/~/media/Files/enUS/HeavyDuty/TechTip/TT08_021.ashx

2 ands 4 share a yellow(?) power lead. Make sure you have power at the inj. Check the engine harness connectors.

Looks like 85.0 mm,but better measure. Make sure you have any burrs removed before installation.

Slow down and use thicker oil.

A momentary glitch in the CTS is not going to cause steadily poor running.

If it is a model w/live data.Slightly pricier than the very basic models. It is a waste of time,though.It has been tested. If you really must check yourself,leave it in the car and measure resistance as the engine warms.

"they have no idea on how to diagnose a problem." You need to look in the mirror,my friend. The only way to test it? Try to get at least a handhold on reality. Reading the actual CTS signal that the computer sees w/a Select Monitor or other scan tool is much superior to your long-winded approach. Your emphasis on an analogue meter is misplaced. The unburnt fuel is from the misfiring cyl.

That is a painful story. Have you condidered Speedi-sleeves? http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/chicago-rawhide/speedi-sleeve-catalog/11940-66677.html Local jobber normally has them,but,you need to know the exact size.

If it is OK w/alt. unplugged,they gave you a bad one(very bad). Be VERY indignant. What yr/model?

Check for a stuck caliper first.

Not completely familiar w/your engine. Believe there is a Shrader valve(tire type) on the fuel rail.Simpifies matters a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-INJECTION-PUMP-TESTER-TEST-INJECTOR-PRESSURE-GAUGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cedb1e7aaQQitemZ330405373866QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools This is one of the cheapo gauges I have.Works fine Lotsa sellers w/the same item.Don`t get sucked into buying an expensive one. For injectors,it is best to have them ultrasonicly cleaned and tested at a local place that does diesel truck injectors.

Doubtful, Check out the CTS and TPS.

Could be. 20 sec isn`t a long time,but,if it clears after a quick rev you may be right. A fuel pressure gauge would show declining pressure overnight. Consider the spark plugs and wires as well.

Very high rpm "test drive" w/cold oil.

Best I can offer is page 72,section 2-7 in part 2 of the ej-22 manual here http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx Might want to look at the ea-82 maf stuff too.

Wildassguess-It`s a mechanical voltage regulator in the dash.

Either or neither. p0420 is "Catalyst System Efficency Below Threshold" Computer sets this code by comparing the upstream and downstream sensor output voltages. In a perfect world,a faulty sensor should set a sensor specific code before the p0420. I would want to see the sensor voltages on a scan tool before replacing the cat(or either sensor). Faulty CTS could trigger this code by telling the computer to do the comparision too soon. Exhaust leaks could be a factor. Personally,I wouldn`t be too worried if the code takes that long to reset. I don`t buy the "Subaru only" theme.A sensor is a sensor.Subaru doesn`t make them.

P0141 is for the O2 sensor heater circuit. Make sure you have power on the heater element connections at the sensor. If OK,it is safe to assume the sensor heating element is faulty. Could check heating element w/an ohmmeter,but,it may read OK when cold.