naru

Sway bar links would be early suspects.

Grind the bevel off,if you need to.

MassAirflowSensor and ThrottlePositionSensor Look at the CoolantTemperatureSensor before those. Vacuum leaks normally result in poor idle quality. (greater charge dilution at lower airflow)

With 273K,guides gotta be tired.

3rd. Confirming adequete fuel pressure would be worthy before diving into deeper subjects like the MAF and TPS.

Could just be a poorly connected engine harness connector too.

Sounds a lot like a vacuum leak that develops w/temperature. Could be as simple as the EGR valve sticking open(not sure if you have one) If you do,a test would be to disable it while the car is running well by plugging the vacuum line. I would check the intake plumbing as well.Spraying suspicious area w/carb cleaner while idling rough may help pinpoint the problem. Could be a wonky coolant temperature sender too.I would try a drive w/it unplugged,check the resistnce,connector etc.

The wire goes to #5 lead of the 12 pole connector on the back of the gauges.You want 12V here and on #8(black/white).Grounding the yellow/black lead w/140 ohms in series should give 57 psi on the gauge. Since the gauge still moves,it is probably powered up,but look for voltage at the sender end of the wire anyway. Sounds like the sender is bad.Could you have gotten a pressure switch instead of a sender? Check the senders resistance.

Hard to say,but,since only the block was replaced,I would suspect the components that were not.Heads and ......?

Think about changing the pump.It is going to bork out again soon.

No

1 fuel filter 2 wires

Lotsa possibilities. I would start by examining the ignition system. Moisture under the disty cap or on the coil,fouled plugs,bad wires etc. Fuel-wise,-make sure the accellerator pump works,could be lean from fuel delivery problems too(low float level,plugged filter etc.)

No,that won`t work. Not offering shyte advice will help though.

No worries mate. Don`t need more than one to know that you don`t repair brakes with SAND and NAILS. Thanks for the opportunity to reemphasise the point.

Indeed,but,experience says heating element.

Hey Dad, Junior called.Wants you to pick up some SAND and NAILS so he can fix his brakes properly.

Go stick a nail in your brake line.

Think you mean MAF cleaner.AFAIK, they are the same thing.Can`t think of anything more suitible. Don`t know if spraying them will get it done,but,that is a very aggressive solvent. Dissolves hard baked on deposits while you watch.

Not necessarily. Depends when it happens, how wide open the throttle is,.....etc.

No doubt at all. Read somewhere that ABS equipped cars are 200% as likely as non-ABS cars to be involved in a roll over accident.

The heating element is part of the circuit and is more likely to fail than the connector.

It is not called "wasted" spark for nothing.The exhaust stroke spark doesn`t reduce emissions.The mixture is already burning and a second ignition source at this late date contributes nothing.Wasted spark was introduced for reliability and economic reasons,not (direct) emission reduction. You guys are discussing preignition,not detonation. Plug wires will bite you when the insulation breaks down,not the core. The latter makes the former more likely,but,that is another story. Gotta agree that the Magnecors are mostly for the suckers though. Got me once before I knew any better.