naru

Nothing 99.9999% of the time. Done it 1000`s of times. Wouldn`t do it if the battery was flat and taking a heavy charge though.

Comparing drag coefficeints is meaningless w/o considering frontal areas. A small brick has less aerodynamic drag than a large supersonic airplane despite having a much higher drag coefficeint.

Carb might be flooding.Opening the throttle clears the excess gas from the manifold sometimes. Get a look at the fuel level in the carb sight glass.Mirror? I`m guessing the float valve leaks and the fuel level is too high.

Probably bad wire.How is the ground? Got power on the sender wire? You should have moved the float to the extremes and watched the gauge while you had it out. You can subsitute a variable resistor for the sender to test the gauge. I use a 10 turn potentiometer.1K ohms IIRC. Subaru will have some new ones,but,yours sounds OK.

Braking on downhill corners?Where did you learn to drive? Why would you stop short of machining or replacement? Machining costs me the princley sum of $12! Calipers probably sticky.Check by checking for free rotation of the wheel. 1. Check for sticky caliper(s) 2. Machine rotors 3. Replace/rebuild calipers as ness.(new pads suggested) Frankly,if you need to ask these questions,you probably should not be working on brakes. $950 seems pretty steep.Try some where else.

Blocker ring won`t help. Probably worn shift fork or too much endplay in the gears/shafts.

Linkage gets sloppy too.Check it out.

Could be ignition,but,it is probably fuel. Change the second filter as suggested. If it is still bad,shut the engine off quickly while it is behaving badly and try to get a look at the fuel level in the carby sight glass.A mirror may be required. I think you will find the fuel level to be too low. No points in an 85. Test the vacuum advance w/a clean rubber line and your mouth. Should hold vacuum and move the "point plate" inside the disty.

Does sound like it could be the egr valve not seating properly at times. If you can get it idling smooth again,disable the egr by unhooking and plugging the egr vacuum line for diagnosis(no more bad running=sticky egr) Last one I had,egr would stick 10% of the time after the throttle was opened to cruising speed.

You are going too long between oil changes and/or using crap oil. Engine shear forces eventualy break up larger molecules in the oil thus lowering viscosity and pressure. Oil cleanliness is only related as an indicator of oil age. Stock gauge isn`t too accurate in the lower range.

Check for power at coil - w/key on before relpacing anything. If OK,check bracket grounding. Disty rotor turning?

Replace that damn loose coil wire.Ignition amp may already be damaged. Got spark now?Got codes now?

Don`t know if you can swap them side to side,but,neither the slow air bleeds nor slow(idle) jets are "fixed".They are screwed in like the others. Factory used at least a couple different slow bleed jets. Here is a nearly identical Hitachi: http://www.preterhuman.net/texts/automotive/Hitachi_Carb_DCH_DCP_DRJ340.pdf

Small main in the primary 111,114 calif.or 2wd Small air bleed in the primary 70,60 if calif.or 2wd Sec. are the larger ones left over Slow air bleeds are reversed,larger in the primary-160 or 150 Idle mixture screw should work regardless of jet placement.Sounds like the idle passage is still plugged if the ADS is OK.Compressed air blown thru the idle mixture screw hole should come out in the throttle bore and inside the float bowl.(w/ADS powered up or removed) Better yet,blow thru the ADS port w/it removed.

Probably flooding.Not running on the idle circuit really.

Likely blew a fusible link in the engine compartment.

Hard to see how 2 unrelated shops would get this wrong exactly the same way. Never heard of it before,but,possibly buddy`s T-light is misbehaving and acting like a fancy advance model(by delaying the flash). I would try a second(4th) timing light. AntiDieselSolenoid is indeed a smog related item. Your dieseling Sube certainly wouldn`t pass any smog test. I`m sure they were impressed with your explanation/lame excuse.

I would change the fuel filter and check the CTS connector for corrosion. Ignition system check after that.

I don`t remember 100% for sure if they do,but,sealant is called for so they must.

FSM wants you to use 3 Bond 1215 and let it dry 10 minutes on the bolts before installition. I would use silicone for sealer and remove all oil from the threads w/brake clean,intake cleaner,acetone or similar.Tricky part will be cleaning the holes w/o knocking bits of the old silicone? into the engine.Caution here! I suppose you could remove the flywheel housing to be extra sure.

I think that is part of the pilot bearing as suggested. There is a flywheel o ring of similar size nearby. You have a leak somewhere there. I`d relace the rear main seal and clean and seal those bolt holes well.

Since it didn`t use oil before,something altered during rebuilding is to blame. Rings,cyl finish,or valve guide. I wouldn`t assume anything about what the machine shop did. The same shop installed exhaust guide seals twice. I would remove those. However,your problem is probably poor ring seating. I don`t know that you can inspect the cyl. finish visually. I think you need to deglaze and rering #3 and try again. Here is a good read on break-in: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm This is OK too.Nice piston pictures. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

The amp is probably similar to a BU941. http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/SGSThomsonMicroelectronics/mXsxr.pdf I think you are good to go in cold weather.YAY!

Hard to say w/o hearing in person,but,seeing how it accompanied by a studder/rattle,it is probably detonation. Try a tank of high test,check timing and egr operation. Could be carboned up too. Larger tires are an aggravating factor.

Oil consumption from failed oil rings or intake valve guide resulted in detonation and too high temps for the exhaust valve. I`ve burnt a valve w/a vacuum leak too. I would inspect valve to guide clearances. Oil rings,piston ring groove,piston for cracks and clearance,and the bore too.