naru

Sorry to hear that. They are a little specilized.Big back emf from the coil,me thinks. This one might work:http://www.allspectrum.com/store/pro...b7eb4563092414 Simplier to get a used one though.

They are close to a dead short,but,not quite. Dead short across the winding would not kill the tach signal as long as the fuse held. If you have a "diode test" on your meter,use it to check for an open junction on the power transistor/ignition amp. IMO you should get a coil w/bracket and amp from the junkyard instead.

Sounds even more like the ignition amp.

Starting to sound like a wonky ignition amp on the coil bracket. If you have 12V at coil - w/key on,no trouble codes and a test light that does not flash when connected to coil - while cranking the amp is highly suspect.Check connections and grounding.

Yes,but,probably not your problem as you have recently inspected the connector. I`m wondering if the pump runs while cranking? A fuel pressure test would be good. Failing that,at least direct the filter output into a container to check flow while cranking. Note how plugged the old filter is. Check for spark first! Could be a cold weather vacuum leak too.

I`m guessing a worn fuel pump that doesn`t like cold temps. If so,tapping on it while someone cranks the engine will probably get it going.Could be a bad relay too.Or CTS connection. It ran on residual fuel pressure on the occasions when it only ran for 5-10 sec,the fuel pump never started.

You`re right.No IAC.Just a simple AAV. Check it w/an ohmmeter if you are worried about the heating element. Tap it lightly. Hook a voltmeter to it to check for voltage supply interuptions. Your time will be better spent looking at the hoses though,IMO.

Doubtful,but,clean it anyway. Early turbos have an AAV,later ones an actual IAC. Check the coolant temperature sender if you have the later style. Both you guys should check for leaks in the rubber intake plumbing. Move it around and listen for a RPM change. Warm idle speed is adjustable BTW.

No piston movement on #1 = broken rod or piston

Shorted alternator diode(s) (from failed voltage regulation?) turned your DC alternator into an AC generator.Current was flowing backwards at times,wreaking havoc.

Confirm correct fuel pressure while boosting.

Answer is still the same after 2 weeks. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106850

Compression and therefore firing voltage is too low on #1 to trigger your light. Try a wide plug gap on #1 or loosen the wire on the spark plug until there is a small gap.This will increase voltage enough to fire the light.I`ve had the same problem.

Put the EGR back on.It will help. You may need water injection w/your compression. Different engines have dfferent octane requirements even though they may have the same compression ratio.How much did you say you`re running? Those older 350s get away with it because they are also running high overlap cams and modified advance curves.

Low voltage wouldn`t blow coils either. Spiky back emf from a worn high current motor on the same circuit would be problematic though.

Choke operation,choke pull-off,fast idle adjustment,cold compression.

If true,it was a bad turbo,not bad installation. BTW-the nut is (or at least was) on the intake side.

Another typicaly oversweeping incorrect assertion. Some at least,do indeed have ballast resistors. Not sure about 82s but he says he has one and Chiltons shows one. Some slightly older models definetly have one.

Unless they are just bad coils(same brand?)(incorrect ballast resistor type?) or the mounting subjects them to unusual heat or vibration,the problem is probably excessive resistance in the ignition secondary circuit.This will make the coil produce higher than normal voltage, Check plug gaps,plug/coil wire resistance,disty rotor cap clearance etc. You may want to try a different capacitor too. Conversly,if your ignition system has the external type ignition module,a ballast resistor is required.A missing one would blow coils. Are they hot after they blow? Even a lean mixture will make the voltage higher than normal. Good luck.

Unfortunately heater valves for 81 brats are unique according to the parts book. 6740 02120

And if it is not the check valve(in the pump I think),try the pressure regulator.Pinch a flexible line closed on the supply and return side to isolate the problem.If pressure still drops w/both lines pinched,your injector(s) are leaking.

Check/change fuel pressure,fuel filter,fuel,disty cap+rotor.

There are 2 different FPCUs.One for computer equipped cars,one for non. The non computer version has an output for the choke as well. It also has 2 power inputs.One through fuse#5,the other from the ignition switch.

.012-.020 inch