naru

The fuel pump control unit needs to see ignition pulses in order for the pump to run more than a couple seconds.No pulses=no fuel pump. Your ignition module is likely fried.They are sometimes sensitive to high resistance in the ignition secondary circuit.Check for a bad plug/coil wire and extra wide spark plug gaps before replacing it. The modules are a little difficult to test. If you have a known good one,you can compare readings between terminals using the "diode test" function of a digital multimeter. Easier test is on the car. As long as you have 12 volts at coil - w/key on,wiring is intact,and a test light that does NOT flash when connected to coil - while cranking,the module is bad. Take the disty cap off and check for play in the shaft too. Service manual http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx

You don`t need one.A bad ignition amp won`t prevent you from having 12V on at least one side of the coil.Check fuses,fusible links and the ignition switch instead. BTW-the ignition amp doesn`t power the coil,it grounds the coil.

Big difference. Pretty sure 854 is an optical dizzy and 853 is none optical.Not compatible.Neither one comes w/the required electrical module,either.

Long cranking w/fuel injection usually means the check valve in the fuel pump doesn`t hold pressure in the fuel line w/the engine stopped.Normally unrelated to fuel pump life,but dirt /rust in the tank could be an aggravating factor for both.I`ve had check valves fail in new pumps. Try priming the fuel system by turning the key to the "on" position for a couple of seconds before cranking to save starter life.

Your "step 6" is plain wrong for a SPFI throttle body type injection system.Correct for MPFI. Your FPR is connected to throttle bore vacuum,not manifold vacuum. As the "port" is located rather high above the throttle plate,it will only see vacuum at high airflow, open throttle.Tee in your gauge and go for a drive to get a reading.

Check fuel pressure while it "Jerks back and forth when under load in 3rd @ around 2500 rpm."

8 milliamps is well within normal.Not enough draw to drain a battery overnight.80ma would be too much. Likely the drain is intermittent and you happened to measure when everything is OK. I once had a door lock circuit w/a different draw everytime the locks were operated.Often no draw.Made it fun to pinpoint.

Looks like the end of the steering rack gear.Not to worry. A new boot would be good.

Here is a link to a SSM Operating manual.Don`t know if it is the right one. http://www.pdfoo.com/subaru/316-12620-pdf.html#login

You want CV joint grease.Slightly different.

You need to redo the seach form.Several there.

You forgot a digit.22611AA223. Some here:http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Tap a new one if you have to. Venting the AAV to atmosphere will allow unmetered air to enter the engine.

http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mfaults.htm

Yes

What year?? It matters. Forget the dealer.Collective EA-82T knowledge base is larger on this forum.We will get you running. CAS(if equipped) is OK if you have spark. Any codes other than the missing ignition reference pulse? If you have no volts on the injectors,check the fusible links.

http://www.thevalvepage.com/servdata/testeq/telequip.htm

No,not directly.It will affect MPGs in other ways,however. Read the last paragraph here:http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110577/article.html Install a working solenoid/check wiring to cure your code. Bad ECU doubtful but easily verified w/a test light.

As long as the light pulses and the tach works while cranking,ignition module and coil primary is OK.Secondary winding might be shorted,bad wires,bad cap and rotor also possible.

Probably the ignition amp mounted on the coil bracket.Hit it w/some "cold spray" next time it fails or swap one from another car. Could be coil or ECU too,but,I doubt it.

No Yes Tach will work No

Easier to remove(and plug) the vacuum line from the FPR for a temporary enrichment test.Pinch the return line for even more fuel.

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Maybe the gasket is fubared now.These guys have kits: http://www.walkerproducts.com/_pdf/applicationguide.pdf Float spec is 16.21-17.83mm to the bottom of the lip.

Reading the O2 sensor voltage/observing the O2 light may provide some clues about mixture strength. I would advance the ignition timing 5-7 degrees and see what happens. A non-turbo PCV may be worth a try.

If your diagram is correct,the high beam relay coil is grounding through the indicator bulb w/the dip switch in the low beam position. Also,the indicator won`t light in the high beam position as there is a direct path to ground through the dip switch. Did you really rewire everything?Looks much different than stock.