naru

No,check ignition timing w/a light.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-1978-Subaru-1800-1600-Brat-Parts-Book-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem390033568394QQitemZ390033568394QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

The inhibitor switch prevents an auto trans car from starting in any shifter position except Park.Since you no longer have an automatic,you can eliminate it w/o fear. Since you have power on the B/Y wire from the ignition switch,it has to be bad inhibitor switch contacts or wiring/connectors between there and the starter.Put your voltmeter on either side of the switch while attempting cranking to confirm. I would eliminate the switch as suggested.

It was a interesting experiment nonetheless.Glad your ECU survived. Parts book says any fuel injected 87 ea-82 dizzy is the same.88 up are different in some way.Suspect it might just be plug configuration. Distributor failure seems unlikely,but,possible.I would expect to see trouble code 23 in that case and no injector or ignition pulses. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere.Wiring harness,ECU or distributor likely.

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Read the trouble code off of the flashing light on the ECU next time the ECS light comes on.

No,that wouldn`t make sense at all.Missing grounds have no effect on coil power.

Subaru calls this piece a "leading rod". Subaru # 21063 GA080 for your car. Also known as a strut rod or radius rod sometimes. BTW boys,they are not all created equal.RXs and turbo 4wd 3drs share another while XT6s have thier own.

Not if they didn`t supply the bearings or have them available for checking. I would expect another charge. My understanding is that some main bearing sets for undersized cranks include thicker thrust surfaces and some don`t.Thicker ones require machining the thrust surface. IIRC,thrust surface wasn`t machined on the one I did,but I might be wrong.

Not as far as power to the coil is concerned.I would sort this issue first. If you have power on both sides of the fuses,there must be a break in the wiring between fuse 11 and the coil.Could use the ohmmeter to confirm lack of continuity between here and the coil.Problem likely lies at either the 3? or 7? pin wire connectors in between.ECU power loss is likely at the same location. One of the black/white wires carries power to the coil from the fusebox.

Hmmm...If you have power at 11 and 12,the switch and link work.If the fuse is good, you should have power on the coil.

How did you check it? Got power on the white wire to the ign. switch? At fuses 11,12? Remove the steering column plastic to access the ign. switch plug. This is not as difficult to fix as you think.

No power at the coil? That makes it easier. If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be a fusible link,ignition switch or wiring. My money is on the link.

The actual link is black,it feeds a white wire in the harness.

This is getting slightly silly.Bad grounds,coil,ignition reley and ECU won`t prevent the coil from powering up.

Yes,lockbolt is in the centre of the idler. Bird etc. is too funny........LMAO

No power at the coil? That makes it easier. If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be a fusible link,ignition switch or wiring.

More than one problem,me thinks. Plugged exhaust might be one of them.lol Put a vacuum gauge on the intake and see what happens w/you hold the revs up.

or use a timing light instead of a spark plug.Just make sure it flashes for all 4 cyl.Neither method is completely definitive,but should catch a bad coil while running rough. Definately pull the vacuum line off the FPR and inspect for fuel too,as suggested.

Better to be smart than lucky.Known wire colours are an unneeded luxury. ID the fuel pump output by putting your ohmmeter between the unplugged fuel pump wire and the unplugged FPCU plug.Once ID`d check voltage here w/everything plugged in. ID the ignition pulse line by allowing a test light to flash when connected to the FPCU plug w/engine cranking.Plugged in or not,no matter. Some FPCUs have 2 power inputs.One switched w/the key,one not. Some only have the switched input.ID the ignition pulse line first to save confusion. ID the ground wire w/an ohmmeter w/the battery disconnected.

Because there ia a bad connection (high resistance) between where you are measuring and battery positive.W/o the pump connected,there is no current flow and the high resistance is irrelavant.With the pump in the circuit,most of the voltage is dropped across the high resistance rather than the pump. Could be dirty relay contacts inside the black box (fuel shut-off device),but,this seems unlikely as it has been replaced.I would check voltage being supplied to this unit.

Yes,but,not a 2n3055. TO-3 is just the case style. I was guessing at the required specs.I was wrong about low gain. Take a look at a data sheet for a BU941 purpose built ignition coil driver for a better choice. With either,I would carefully consider the driver current and voltage requirements before hooking one up.How much current can the ECU safely supply on this circuit etc.Takes a little more than just plugging one in.

FPCU plug.Not sure what you mean by 'ignition pulse relay' plug.

You can rent a gauge but probably not cheaper than buying this one. I own one of these high dollar items myself.Works well.Sell it for a profit when your done. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Injector-Injection-Pump-Pressure-Tester-Gauge-K07_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem230331186568QQitemZ230331186568QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

If you have pump power for 1 sec it sorta works.It needs to see ignition pulses from the coil for continued power. Could be bad FPCU or lack of ignition signal. Confirm ignition signal is present on one of the wires on the plug.Don`t know which one offhand,but,a test light will flash on one of them as the engine is cranked.