naru

Might be incorrect,but, 1st Subaru says both of those numbers are still good. $19/set https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/part_number.html

Looks like he uses the same picture for many shoe sets.Bet he has what you need.

These any good? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Brake-Shoe-Set-to-suit-Subaru-FF-Rear_W0QQitemZ280271313693QQihZ018QQcategoryZ42605QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

This one isn`t too pricey.Looks like it has your size.Should be able to buy just one thru a local jobber too. http://cgi.ebay.com/45-PCS-LARGE-TAP-DIE-SET-TUNGSTEN-STEEL-TOOL-METRIC_W0QQitemZ400008597513QQihZ027QQcategoryZ58227QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Correct,and 84 up shares the smaller ea-81 parts.

Set the throttle valves so that they are open exactly equal-Use a wire gauge.Precise setting not so important at this stage,equality is.You want them open a bit,but,not enough to uncover the transition ports.Once running,adjust idle speed by turning these screws identically to preserve synchronization. 2 turns out on the mixture screws should get you running.Adjust these idependently thereafter.Might need to redo one after the other a couple of times. Suggest tyou check part throttle synchonization once everything is together. Lookin good!

The plot thickens. If one side is kinda OK then something is different between sides.AFAIK, the carb is symmetrical. Adjust mixture screws independently.Should be similar but maybe not identical.Both should be responsive. I`d compare compression side to side.

Parts book,carparts.com and here:http://www.autoecmecu.com/subaru-ecu-ecm.html All I`ve seen have part #s on them.

2g identification,ripped this from another site: 1 1/4" flange, 1 7/16" throttle bore, 1 3/32" venturi - 278 cfm 1 1/2" flange, 1 11/16" throttle bore, 1 3/16" venturi - 352 cfm 1 1/2" flange, 1 11/16" throttle bore, 1 1/4" venturi - 381 cfm 1 1/2" flange, 1 11/16" throttle bore, 1 5/16" venturi - 423 cfm 1 1/2" flange, 1 11/16" throttle bore, 1 3/8" venturi - 435 cfm I sometimes work on a 394 cu. in. Oldsmobile that breathes thru one. Might be worth checking to see if the metering rods are stuck,but I wouldn`t expect miracles. I suspect it doesn`t work because you don`t have enough part throttle vacuum from your 1.6L.

Your other disty won`t work. ECU calculates required advance from TPS and airflow meter inputs. Suggest you measure fuel pressure under load when the problem occurs.

Rochester 2Gs come in several flavours.Smallest is 280cfm.Largest is 435..AFAIK,3.8L is the smallest corresponding engine. Part of the problem is the synchronous throttles.An oversized progressive carb would be more forgiving. BTW-I do own one,but,it is not on a Sube. You have the same amount of air and excess fuel. Jet size comparisions are not valid w/different sized venturies. As for idle jets,air bleed size will affect jetting comparisions. Too big a carb won`t be able to meter fuel accurately enough at low airflow rates.Almost certainly,the vacuum signal to the metering rods and power valves is all wrong. Holley 5200 would be a better starting point.There will be several other canidates at the junkyard too.Think smaller engines. Here is a radical thought-How about a stock carb?

Ahh... Your Carter -Weber has shape shifted itself into a Rochester dualjet? No wonder you are having trouble pinning the problem down! That carb was on 5.0 litre engines.You are expecting it to work on a 1.6? Almost certainly,the vacuum signal to the metering rods and power valves is all wrong. Your reference says they don`t work on VWs either. Throw that POS away.You are washing oil off the cyl walls and not doing your new rings any favours.An early varijet would have been a better Rochester choice. If you`re determined not to buy a Weber,try a different junkyard carb from an engine no bigger than about 2.5L.

I`d try moving it around anyway.

Try installing the wheel in each of the other 3 possible positions.Wheel might have originally been balanced while on the car.

Hmmm..... All 4 wet w/fuel.That`s much too much. I wouldn`t touch the float unless I knew it was flooding.Hotwire the pump and look down the carb for drips. I thought Carter Webers were only on 1800s but that shouldn`t be a big difference. Like I said,AFAIK,this carb won`t function properly w/o electronics to operate the duty solenoid on the air bleed. If everything else was OK,I`d suspect restricted air bleeds or emulsion tube. Wouldn`t touch no jets.

Oil fouled or fuel fouled or .....? Could be a crap plug.Swap it to a different cyl.Plugwire too,if possible. Pretty hard to foul them w/fuel unless the carb floods. Check compression. IIRC,Carter-Webers don`t work w/o the duty solenoid functional.

0.0 volts? Are you sure? There has to be a voltage drop across the relay or it wouldn`t be hot.Barring problems on the control winding side(shorted windings-pretty doubtful-check resistance) it has to be bad internal contacts or poor connections.Too small a wire will "heat" the wire,not the relay. 3.9 sounds about right for for fuel pump resistance.

Relay shouldn`t be hot. You are losing some fuel pump voltage at the bad relay contacts.Might be enough to affect running.Put your voltmeter across the relay contacts w/the engine running to see what your losing.

Has to be the FL or wiring if no volts at the engine side.

Shorted ECM might have blown the FL.Got power at fuse#3?

Once you find that connector,ignition output is on the black wire,starter BW.

Maybe not,Best check is w/voltmeter.Confirm 12v on both sides w/key on. Zero isn`t going to work if correct.Won`t prevent the motor from turning though. Same principle applies to testing the switch.Confirm 12V in and 12V out by measuring as close as possible to the switch while under load. Look for 12V at coil + w/key on.