naru

1. Maybe,but ,it sounds more like a bad fusible link.(Small wire fuses located in a plastic box near the battery) 2.Probably,coils are fairly robust.Did you have spark after hotwiring? How far out of spec? You need to remove wires before measuring.

Yes,replace it.

That many trouble codes suggest an engine/ECU grounding problem.Incorrectly installed belts won`t give all those. Best way to check CTS circuits etc., is to unplug the computer harness and measure there.I`d look for high resistance somewhere between the ECU ground,Battery -,and the engine.

IIRC,I used Aviation Form a gasket #3 w/good results.You want a thin type sealant for closely machined surfaces.

Probably too many psi.You want 2psi max.

Did your 90 psi cars stop?........Mine didn`t either. A partially plugged cat might take a few miles of open road heavy throttle to build up significant backpressure.(hot or cold)Should be OK after a short stop though. Splitting hairs,the complaint was power loss after driving,not after warm-up.

Compression isn`t that bad. Blowby isn`t going to stop the motor after a short drive.I`ve owned several w/much worse compression than that.They ran great until the oil rings got bad enough to foul the plugs. Sounds more like a plugged cat.Put a vacuum gauge on the intake for verification.Plugged exhaust might make blowby worse. If it sputters to a stop,check the fuel filer. Blowby may improve after more driving.Could be a little rust on the cyl. walls after the long hibernation.

Could be wrong ,but, I think curb idle is adjusted at the idle stop solenoid on the side of the carb opposite the choke coil housing.

Sure,the choke housings are swapable.They are quite robust though. Sounds like it just needs an adjustment. Loosen the 3 screws and rotate the choke housing until the choke is lightly closed w/a cold engine. Good luck.

Carb synching by ear? Good luck w/that. Having owned and maintained several multiple carb cars,IMO,some type of carb balancing tool is essential. Being synched at idle isn`t good enough.You need to know that the linkage opens the throttles equally. Could be,they were OK in your previous installation.A small amount of wear in the linkage is enough to throw them off. W/downdraft carbs,you could check by propping the throttles open(welding rods?) and slowly operating the main linkage. Both rods should drop at exactly the same time.

Actually,there is a lever on the throttle shaft w/an adjusting screw that rides on a cam on the choke mechanism.That screw adjusts fast idle. Make sure the cam isn`t seized.

3200? WOW! Something must be holding the throttle open. Try disconnecting the throttle cable.Take a good look at the fast idle rod and mechanism too. I had a carter/weber w/a throttle body loose from the float bowl once.Couldn`t tell until the carb was removed.Doubt that would be good for 3200 rpm though.

Synchronization is paramount w/multiple carbs.I`d be looking there first.You need to check for matched airflow through the carbs at the same part throttle opening w/a unisyn type device. I`d use a higher no load rpm for the measurement in an attempt to duplicate the on road 2000 rpm throttle position/airflow.3000?

How high is the fuel level in the sight glass after sustained idling?

In case you didn`t know,some DGV series carbs use different style idle jets in the primary and secondary.Don`t know if it is possible to install them in the wrong positions but if so,I would expect problems. picture here http://www.racetep.com/webrebuild.html specs http://www.webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/weberpartscatalog.pdf

I`m thinking approx. 2/3 full.You might get a better indication by removing the float from the airhorn and floating it in the bowl.

Maybe,Seems like it would only be a small leak,but,a leak is a leak. Has to be something like that seeing how the previous owner had problems and the idle passages are clear. I know it is hard to judge operational fuel level w/the float removed but 1/4 full sounds too low.Try raising it. Unscrew the idle jet holders and make sure the o rings are there too. Take a good look at the various aluminum and brass plugs intended to seal drilled passageways as well. I`ve epoxied over suspicious ones in the past.

I wouldn`t worry about the throttle shafts unless they are quite loose.In my experience,they can tolerate a lot of slop and still idle OK. Don`t give up.These carbs are simple. You are either rich or lean at attemped idle. Test by closing the choke for an rpm increase on a lean mixture and a controlled vacuum leak for a too rich mixture. Could be carb is flooding even though you adjusted float etc. To answer your earlier question,that would be a symptom of a carb that needed a regulator.To get a positive read on fuel level,remove airhorn w/o removing carb. Lean problems might include,missing idle jet o ring(s),ruptered or corrupted vacuum path to the choke and power valve diaphrams. Might be worth trying a bit of additional ignition advance to gain rpm for a given throttle opening in case the transition ports are being uncovered by the throttle plate too soon. Good luck

I`d make and try a new set of gaskets of thickish material before sanding the adapter.

If it wasn`t for the rpm increase w/spraying the gaskets,I would think a plugged idle circuit is a possibility.

I would expect inferior low speed throttle response from the 38/38 due to the synchronous throttle linkage and small engine size. At low speed,there will be 1/2 as much air flowing through a venturi. Less air = less vacuum to pull fuel into said venturi. Top end is nearly the same,270 cfm vs 330cfm. Venturis are nearly the same,26/27 vs 27/27 I`d go w/the 32/36

Only if it is plugged enough to cause a misfire. I would change it,regardless. Outside temps consistent?

83 brat tilt wheel ign sw interchanges w/82-at least 84 ea-81 vechicles 83 brat non tilt wheel ign sw =any 81-84 non tilt sw. hope this helps

Don`t believe everything you read! Undo the LH thread nut to liberate the compressor. Compressor wheels and shafts have factory alignment marks on all I`ve dissassembled(look carefully).As long as you line them up again,the assembly will be just as balanced as before. Thrust bearing seems to be the major wear item.

Any 75-79 car w/disc brakes,2wd too