naru

Timing gears are not interchangible,However,they are available OEM.Over $200! Probably a waste of money. Valves aren`t interchangible. $300 seems awful steep for lifters when 1st subaru has brand new factory ones for $18 each. .020 overbore should be fine as it is the factory limit.I would not expect any more heat or power as the compression increase is nominal. Always good to have the crank grinder supply bearings.That way there can be no arguments about fit.

Leaking injector,faulty cts

yes

No cam/crank sensors. Could well be a spark issue.At a minimum,I would pull at least a couple plugs for inspection-maybe take a fresh set with you.Measure plug wire resistance w/a multimeter if you have one.Pull and inspect the disty cap. See if you can get a look at the fuel level in the sight glass in the carb(may require a mirror-don`t remember)

Bulb 80-81 7849 20050 82 7840 01540

Assuming the choke isn`t closed enough,4-5 pumps of the throttle before starting should richen it enough to start.Since it idled normally for your friend,warming it up for 5 minutes w/your foot on the throttle may suffice. Choke should be closed if quite cold.Vacuum pull off diaphram will open choke slightly as soon as engine starts.Make sure it holds vacuum/moves the choke. With the aircleaner removed,you can manipulate the choke w/a pencil to hopefully find the optimum position.BEWARE of intake BACKFIRES! No cam sensors etc.

Sounds like a choke issue.Make sure it opens/closes hot/cold.Check the pull-off.Probably an easy fix.

Hitachi w/42987 8110 stamped on it. Stock for all 82-3 4wd subes(except turbo)

Strange as it sounds,the ignition relay has nothing to do w/the ignition system. If the tach shows 0 rpm while cranking,you need to troubleshoot the ignition primary circuit.

You certainly don`t need an ECM/ECU. No ignition pulses = no injector pulses. ECU is Calif. specific,4 wire ICU is not. Best ICU test is to look for an intermittent ground connection at the coil negative terminal w/the module powered up and dizzy turning. Multimeter diode check function will usually show an open or shorted circuit between some of the 4 terminals of a bad one. Make sure you have 12 V on coil negative.

Actually,it does make sense.I`ve seen similar scenarios a few times.Normally it is a car that won`t fire at all.Loosen the coil wire until there is a gap and VROOM! Forcing the spark to jump the gap increases the voltage delivered to the plug enabling it to fire. At one time,I ran Champion plugs that had an extra gap built in. I`d check the plug. For a more technical explanation:http://members.iinet.net.au/~pauldawson/technology/iame26-spark-plugs.PDF

Yes,I have the same one too.Works fine.Didn`t want to permanently mount it to the floor,so I bolted 2x4 extensions to the bottom(simple).Easy to store when not in use that way.Use a tree or solid subsitute to prevent rotation. Paid for itself pretty quick. So far at least,the 13 inch tires I`ve mounted haven`t required balancing.I`m sure larger ones would be a different story.

Should be fine.Unisyn and others are adjustible for different airflow rates and are intended to check synchronization at different RPMs anyhow. Pretty simple,really.Used to use one regularly on a 4 carb car. There are some pretty big bike engines.

Search is your friend http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3820&cat=500&size=big&sort=1

Not really,connections are OK,but,secondary resistance should be something like 10,000-15,000 ohms not 10-14.Seems unlikely that both windings would be defective. Sounds like you have got a digital meter,but if it is an analog one, it needs to be zeroed w/the leads shorted before taking resistance measurements. Range scale selection is important too.You want to use the lowest range possible for greatest accuracy. Best criteria is spark quality.A cheapo spark tester w/an adjustible gap like this one is a great tool. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/media/THE-404.jpg Clean the top of the coil if needed.

Or,more to the point.... get the car hot to where it wont restart.... Check for spark.

Small drill bit or a piece of stiff wire.

Sounds like poor installation.Rack wasn`t centred before install. An off-centre variable ratio rack(dunno if that applies to you) may indeed take more steering wheel turns in one direction to get the same amount of wheel deflection. Doubt it is possible to misalign the rack and pinion gears,but,who knows?

"Have to wait about 20 seconds" = discharged battery Put your voltmeter on the battery and watch the voltage drop while cranking to prove it.

1990 Alba AR20 sports prototype w/subaru 12 cyl. http://www.racingsportscars.com/photo/1990/Silverstone-1990-05-20-041.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/safariengine.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rxexmani.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/spengine.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/spengine.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rudy.html

1989 F1 minardi 188b w/"subaru" flat 12

4.Worn brushes-subaru 495747601 about $6 Checkem before spending big $`s. Eliminate the battery from the diagnostic equation by dissconnecting it.

Normal idle vacuum will be something in the 15-20 inch range. However,in this case you are more interested in the reading at the 5200 max rpm point. If the cat was plugged,I would expect a low reading that drops to a minimium at 5200 relatively slowly.Exact #s are hard to predict,but,probably something like 6-0 inches.I`ve actually seen 2 psi positive pressure in the intake of a car w/a severely plugged cat that wouldn`t rev beyond 2500. May not be your problem,but,it is worth a quick check. You can get an idea about normal readings by putting the gauge on another car(as long as it doesn`t have a lumpy cam).