naru

Any Suby dealer should have OEM. http://1stsubaruparts.com/oemparts/subaru-1994/gasket_cylinder_head_11044AA013.html Any local parts house should be able to get Felpros or there is Rockauto etc.

Yes you can check ignition timing w/the engine cranking over and not running. If it is an ignition timing problem,I expect it would be far enough out to be detectable w/the engine stopped and #1 at TDC. Distributor rotor should point at either #1 or #2 contact depending on whether #1 cyl.is at TDC of the compression or exhaust stroke. Could be an intake valve hanging open for some reason too. I would check compression and cam timing if the ignition check brings no joy.

Check your timing.

+1

This is incorrect. EGR faults lead to detonation at cruising speed.(too much spark advance now) w/resultant MPG loss and engine stress. Another effect is a small decrease in MPG due to increased engine pumping loss. (the engine spends energy pumping air it does not need) Not sure about these early Subaru ECUs,but,some cars will restrict spark advance w/an EGR fault is detected.

If the car runs for more than 10 seconds after starting the pump is operating and there is nothing to be gained from tapping it. Pump could be weak though.A pressure test w/be helpful.Should be about 21 psi,

Why not? It seems the most obvious culprit. Check it by removing the connector and measuring its resistance. You may find the connections corroded,maybe not. Resistance should be 7000-11,500 ohms at 14 degrees or 2000-3000 at 68. It should be somewhere within that range. Easiest way to check the IAC is to unplug it w/the engine running.RPM should drop at least a little. Normal running w/warm and a lack of trouble codes suggest it is OK. Could be sticky w/cold though.

Your car has a returnless fuel system and therefore has the pressure regulator mounted in the pump assembly. The regulator acts just like a one way check valve does on a non-returnless system at shutdown to keep the fuel rail pressurized. All it takes is a small piece of grit to keep the valve from seating. Leave a fuel pressure gauge on it overnight for confirmation. Pinch a rubber part of the line closed to confirm whether the regulator or an injector is leaking. (It will be the reg. IMO) Usual fix is to replace the pump assy,but,I have heard of people adding a check valve. It is worth having a look at the fuel lines in the engine compartment for any seepage w/running. Gas leaks can be hard to smell in cold weather. My own car developed a small leak there during our recent cold weather. I have had all the failures GG mentioned and certainly do not agree that Subaru fuel systems are any more robust than any other make.

Sounds like an ECU related problem to me. I`d guess a bad connection on one of the ECU grounds or power leads. Could be as simple as a loose wiring harness connector. I would be checking for any AC voltage output from the alternator too.

I would suspect ignition components first-plugs,wires etc. Well worth checking how plugged the fuel filter is too.

Got power? Got ground? One side of the connector should have 12V. The other should be grounded w/the switch is activated

Check the fuse! IIRC the bulb uses a seperate fuse. Test the solenoid for an open winding w/an ohmmeter. I had to replace one.

Pretty sure an 02 WRX uses the pump controller. If there is 12v on both sides of the relay contacts,I`d be checking the ground for the pump controller next. Put your voltmeter between the ground lead (black) and battery negative and measure the voltage w/cranking. Anything other than near 0 indicates trouble. Having a look at the controller duty cycle would be very helpful if possible, Easiest w/a scanner. Should be 100% for a short time w/starting 33% at idle.Higher w/more throttle

Range selector might contain more than one switch or the wire to the computer may be compimised.

P0135 is for the o2 sensor heater,not the sensor.No effect on startup. Trouble may well be the transmission range selector. Engine computer expects the range selector to be in P or N at startup,but it is not seeing that. I would adjust or repair it before looking too hard elsewhere. I would also use a scanner to confirm what temperature the computer sees at startup.

Try it w/a jumper cable connected between battery negative and the body of the fan thermoswitch.

Get the tach signal from coil negative. The factory pump controller does not send a pulsed signal to the pump(unlike certain more modern ones) nor does the one I`ve seen from revolution electronics. It does look like a suitable replacement. The fuel pump controller will have no effect on flooding issues. For flooding,I`d check: Float setting Condition of, and dirt in the needle and seat. Fuel pressure

What is WA? The controllers go bad sometimes. You may find this interesting.http://www.underhoodservice.com/subaru-pulse-width-modulated-fuel-pumps/

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607913 Post #8 suggests 6-9 volts at idle is normal.

I think it is located in the passenger side kick panel w/a green connector. You should note that some WRXs have a fuel pump controller between the relay and pump. Its function is to control the fuel pump w/a variable duty cycle. Not sure how that would affect your voltage readings. diagram here http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/37207-fuel-pump-not-priming-no-start-2.html

Check voltage on both sides of the relay. Not uncommon for the contacts to be bad.

Dirt and grit in the tank. Or plugged filters. Did you wash out the tank? Change the filter sock? The filter? Every fuel pump warranty I have ever seen requires all 3.

Not much point. There are no diagrams or other passing lamp parts listed. Info is from an 85 chiltons pro import labour estimating & parts book.

Springs go on top of the shoes.

Kinda doubt the arm etc. are listed seperately.Could be wrong. Surely NLA if listed at all. Only #s I have are: 784979000 80-81 4wd GL wagon passing lamp motor 784979001 82 4wd GL wagon and brat passing lamp motor 784920050 80-81 bulb 784001540 82 bulb 784947020 80-81 passing lamp 784001530 82 passing lamp