naru

http://www.drive.subaru.com/Sum06_attic3.htm Subaru F1-too slow to qualify http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBSh9qecTHQ&NR=1 360SS hot laps-

Sounds like the 1st cat could be partially plugged.Put a vaccuum gauge on the intake for a painless quick check.

Can do.Cut the hose.Easily spliced back together later.

Get underneath and check for slop in the shift linkage.

Remove the rad adapter and connect the tester hose directly to one of the smaller coolant lines.

It won`t be the computer.Even if your 83 had one,I don`t think they have enough authority to prevent the car from running. Sounds more like a leaky carb float valve flooding the engine.Normally,a lightly flooded engine will restart immediately if cranked w/the throttle floored.Otherwise you wait. Regardless,you need to check wheher you have spark before throwing parts at it.

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What diagram are you looking at? The only "ignition control unit" for 82 is the module inside the disty. What is the "coin??" it was hooked to? Not sure,but,I think it might be the timer for the belt/door chime. However,as mentioned,the wire count/plug shape seems incorrect. Does the chime still work?

No,That reading is meaningless. You can`t test pickup coil resistance of your Hitachi disty as the coil is integral to the ignition module. More informative to use your dwell fuction to check the pickup coil/module output signal at the ignition coil.Look for nice steady #s

By looking for ignition pulses at the input and output. In addition,Multimeter diode check function will show the transistor to be open or shorted if it is faulty.

Sure sounds like retarded ignition timing. Vacuum gauge on the intake is a simplier way of checking for a clogged cat.

Missed the belt change.Incorrect cam timing also likely.

Sounds a lot like a plugged catylitic convertor.Try a vaccuum test.

Shaky logic here. FPCU can fail other than by shorting to ground. If fuse was blown,it would stay blown. More to the point,they don`t share the same fuse.#13 for the solenoid,#5for the FPCU. Blown #13 = no ignition,or temp,fuel gauges. Perhaps your thinking of the ASV rev sensor. It is powered by #13.

double post

This seems to be the real issue.You need to address it. Your initial description and susequent info suggests that there is a vaccuum leak affecting #1 when cold.Leak diminishes when warm. Recently ran across this scenario on a non Sube. Engine idled terrible cold,but,smooth as glass once warmed up. The above assumes good ignition components. Pull #1 plug to make sure it isn`t fuel fouled.

That`s combination meter TERMINAL #9. You need to unplug the round 12 pin connector from the RH rear of the instrument panel.Terminals are numbered CCW from the gap. Check the ground too.I believe it is at the extreme lower left. FPCU(rev sensor) is in the same general area,I think. You can check FPCU operation even if you can`t find it. Look for 12V at the fuel pump w/engine cranking/running. Even easier to look for fuel pump voltage at the check connector-consult your FSM. BTW-FPCU doesn`t control the anti-diesel solenoid,so,12V there doesn`t indicate proper operation.

Bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROFESSIONAL-OBDII-OBD2-TROUBLE-CODE-READER-OBD-2-II_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ001QQitemZ110210349574QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Seems to work well.

Yellow,I/P=ignition pulse wire goes to instrument cluster pin 22.

No need to pull it,just remove the cap and try to wiggle the shaft. Good EA-81T distys are hard to find.Having the original rebushed if necessary is a plan. If the tach didn`t drop to zero,it would seem like you have a vaccuum leak.Check the disty vaccuum advance anyway.

All here and more.1982 I think:http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx

Why bother? You can download the real deal 87 manual here:http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx

Correct location(by the disty),wrong sensor. You need a 2 pole one. Some Toyotas have the right one too.

It is the disty or connections.Spark is independent of ECU for 82.

491608711,available,but,not reasonable. You can use one from an 85-86 EA-82T. The star shaped reluctor needs to come off in order to change just the module.Otherwise swap the rotor shaft w/the captured module. Another option is to use a complete 85-86 EA-82T disty by cutting off one of the mounting tabs and swapping to an ea-81 drive gear.The EA-82T disty is functionly identical. In a pinch,you can use a NA EA-81 disty w/minor wiring changes.No knock control,but,it will run.