naru

Your ignition module is fried.Bad cap and rotor contacts likely caused it. Ea-81T modules are difficult to find.PM if you need one.

Filters are unlikely to correct an idle problem. The only electrical component affected by throttle position on a stopped engine is the transmission kick-down solenoid.Perhaps it is semi shorted.Try unplugging it. Fuel pump isn`t tied to the alternator on an 84.

Your car wouldn`t idle if the egr was stuck open. The vacuum advance diaphrams commonly rupture. Mechanical advances get gummed up and stuck too.

Not on an EA-81.Ignitor/ignition module is inside the ditzy.

Actually,when measuring votage across the coil terminals,both an open and a good coil will read 0 volts.(no current flow w/stopped engine,coil negative is ungrounded) When reading between ground and coil negative: 1 An open coil will read 0 volts. 2 A non-open coil will read 12 volts.

Yes,no,maybe... You can swap ignitors,but,a used disty from the wreckers is easiest.

Does kinda sound like the turbo compressor wheel hitting the housing.Less noise w/more RPM suggests this too.IIRC,the compressor inlet is fairly easily removed to check for excessive play. Consider a loose flywheel,suddenly sloppy disty/damaged drive gear and non-disengaging starter too. After hearing it again,it sounds too loud to be the turbo.Sounds more like a foreign object caught between a piston and head.Seems like the noise might be at twice the frequency of the ticking valve.Hope I`m wrong.

One pan fits all.

Some do.Some don`t.If you have an O2 sensor,then you `ll have an ECU.My info shows 81 ECUs as well.Doubt it is your issue.

Since there is no tester to borrow locally,I use a bicycle pump w/a gauge and check valve teed into a small coolant line.Even new caps are worth testing.

Sounds a lot like the fuel strainer in the tank is plugged.Some dirt falls off after a while and allows it to run a bit more.Try the main filter first.

Actually it adjusts timing through a 15 degree range,-10 to +5.High elevation requires advanced timing not retarded.I wouldn`t run a turbo w/o one.

785111080 for 84 DL brats&4wd wagons 785111090 for 84 GL brats&4wd wagons 785111110 for 84 brats&4wd wagons w/digital dash 82-84,Probably 86 brats too.

4-W/any luck,it will tell you if you are lean w/o messing around w/propane.Once warm O2 sensor voltage indicates mixture.In closed loop voltage will vary rapidly above .45V(rich) and below .45V(lean). W/a vacuum leak,voltage at idle will be below .45,maybe 0. Carefully tap into the signal line.Or better yet,use one of the "check connectors" under the dash.Check your FSM for the correct one.

21023 GA170,Subaru calls it a "helper".Only found on 86 up wagons and 4wd 4drs according to the north american parts book.

What is the part#?

Buy a replacement brake line at any auto parts store.You will have to measure the length and add any necessary bends.They come in various lengths w/preformed flares.You want one w/standard flares and metric flare nuts-these are known as Japanese style. They come armored and unarmored.Here is one. http://ken-co.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=KM12A

Classic case of fuel starvation.Change the filters.

Not according to the parts book.XT6 autos share cables only w/XT4 autos 87 up.Likewise w/manual,4wd cables.FYI,book shows 20 different ea-82 & XT6 cables.

Diaphragm should have no leaks.Plug the line until it is fixed. Your EGR passage is definetly plugged.Coat hanger should work.

There is no such thing,Strictly for the suckers.

Yes,Sounds like a sulphated battery,but,you should confirm your cars ability to charge before buying a new one.

The regulator is inside the alt. on your 82.Any problems other than the low voltage readings? The headlight dimming thing is normal on these cars.Check your dash gauge against another meter.The dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate.