naru

1-Yes 2-Eventually,but,your tachometer is more sensitive. 3-Turn the screw in(clockwise) to lean the idle mixture.

You are no exception.Wear here is very common.Subaru says the internal bushings are unservicable,but,rebuilt ones are available so someone has a solution. Get a better indication of play by extending the rack from the housing and moving it rather than the tire.FSM calls for .006 inch clearance on a power rack.

FSM says an 84 turbo wagon sits .4 inches lower than an 84 4wd GL wagon.

You are correct about the pressure/feed lines.The line T`ng off is the return.It has an orfice. Look carefully,I think you will find the fourth line is a brake line.

Never mind the spark plugs.The colour of the exhaust valves is a better indicator of compression.In general,the lighter the colour,the higher the compression.Normal is sorta light tan.The dark valve indicates low compression/oil consumption.

1-Yes they can be tested off the car.Simpliest module check would be w/the "diode check" function of a cheap multimeter.Next hardest would be to power up the module w/12V and look for intermittent continuity to ground on the coil wire as the dizzy is spun.You won`t be able to measure pick-up coil resistance on a Hitachi as the coil is integral. 2-You are not the only one.However,EVERY case I`ve seen of module failure was the result of extra high secondary voltages caused by bad secondary components.(Open or loose plug wires,open rotor etc.) In most cases,the car was running OK even w/bad wires etc. -IIRC,an alternator regulator failure did one in too. 3-Yes,I`ve replaced one.Not that hard.Don`t think I paid that much for new.Junkyards are your friend for this part-very common.

You could also have a stock carter-weber.I think it came in both flavours in 84 as well.It is a 1 bbl.Slightly better gas milage and low end response than the 2bbls.

This will keep you busy for a while. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx IIRC,there is an ea-82 engine parts book at the end of the EA-81 selection.

Publication No. P128BEA

AC current from the fried alternator.

It is the stoplamp checker.You had a faulty brake light circuit.

Duhhh...I see what you mean now.No turbo coupe specific diagram. If it makes you feel any better,there isn`t one in the 84 wiring and trouble shooting manual either.It covers acessories well though.

That`s funny,my 84 FSM has it.........It is called a hardtop.LOL

Probably because the higher power engine has more intense harmonic vibrations.

84s may be listed,but,some of the info therein is inaccurate. 84s have only test connectors,no read-memory connectors or memory clearing procedure. Some of the codes are inaccurate too.For instance, the list says code 42 is for the clutch circuit on an 84 carbed car when really it indicates that vacuum switch II remains off. Most codes can be read directly from the O2 monitor light on the ECU w/o fooling around w/test connectors if the ECS light is on. You might have a plugged convertor.Try testing engine vacuum too.

Parts car had a bad ignition module.You should be able to make 1 good disty out of your 2 bad ones.

3AT torque convertor seal.

And if the cap doesn`t work,try a compression check.The timing light isn`t really a reliable indicator of distributor function.A cheapo inline spark tester would be better.If the plug is fouled or the compression pressure is too low,the voltage may not go high enough to trigger the timing light. I once had trouble trying to time a well worn engine w/low compression (intermittent flashes)until I introduced a gap into the #1 plug lead sufficient to raise the voltage for reliable triggering of the light.

They look like Weber 40 IDFs w/sube specific airhorns to me.

Turbo centre housings are almost identical 84/85 w/the exception of the added water jacket on the ea82s.Same bearings,same everything.Draw your own conclusions.

No more clues on the location,but,maybe this part# will help you ID it: 22070 AA030 for an 86 XT.

AMEN, brother.

You hit the nail on the head.New alt.time.

Clunks aren`t good. Worn front end components won`t cause a vibration but they can amplifly an existing one greatly. My wagon has a clunky rack too,but,I haven`t correlated that w/a speed specific vibration.In my case,I narrowed it down to worn rack bushings.Seemed like a worn inner tie-rod until I checked more closely.According to the FSM they aren`t replacable.You need to remove the boots to check how much slop the rack has in the bushings.Spec is 5mm,I think. In my experience,some larger size tires will go out of balance long before the tread wears out. Or if it has been sitting on the tires in one place for too long the tires can become flatspotted.