naru

The pump won`t operate with the key in the run position w/o the engine running.That is the whole point of hooking it up through the voltage regulator. The pump will run when the starter is engaged. Oil pressure is irrelevent for your application. Your car doesn`t have an inertia,or any other type of fuel cut off switch.Nor a fuel pump relay to give grief. Make sure the pump is well grounded.

How about Subaru 42989 1910? Any 77-81 sube will have one. OR http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268276,parttype,4884,EPIsubcategory[1435],Voltage%2BRegulator,partGroup,18

You need the alternator bracket and alternator w/twin groove pulley from a Canadian EA-81T.

Because of the different emission control related components like the cams,ECU,disty,and catlyst

Sensor is on the block,module is under the LF fender-you will know it when you see it.

The meter moved,but,did it move close to 12 volts? 6 volts won`t cut it. Even a 12 volt reading w/the connector unplugged(and the circuit unloaded) is suspect.Better to test the voltage w/the pump still connected. Or,test the pump definitively by hot wiring it. Unlike later models w/a fuel pump control unit to shut off the pump in the event of a crash your 81 relies on a signal from the voltage regulator.Hence the need for a functional alternator.

Nope,all internal parts are the same except the pistons.

No worries,they are the same 80-84,except 80-81 brats w/manual strg,731310060.

Not as reliable as thier one barrel predecessors or webers but they are OK. I run a 32/35 TDID as a bolt on upgrade for a 32/32 DIDTA on an older BMW.I`ve found it to be somewhat vibration prone.Don`t care for the thermal starting valve either,but,it is easily disabled. The vacuum secondary diaphram in your photo makes the carb look like a DIDTA rather than a TDID.You`d be much happier w/a TDID w/a mechanical secondary. Parts aren`t as difficult as you might think.I bought a carb kit on ebay for $4.Pretty sure there are aftermarket Solex jets available from the early VW crowd.I have a small collection if you need something specific.The carb in the photo will take either an electric or water choke.

Probably,but it could be a bad relay or poor ground. Check for 12 volts at the pump when the key is first switched on. Also, might want to check for poor grounding by putting a voltmeter between battery - and fuel pump -.Should not be more than .5V or so. Good luck

how could it roll forward if the gear selector was in park? Easily,the pawl locks the trans but not the diff(s).Once the wheels on one side were in the air,the wheels on the other side are free to roll downhill. Perhaps the diff was damaged as the car hit the ground?

Nope,that would leave you w/o an ignition module. Easiest would be to replace the original coil.An exact replacement would be on any 81. Chilton`s shows coil primary resistance is nearly identical for all 81-3 coils. That being the case,I wouldn`t expect problems.My choice would be one from an 82-3 w/a Nippon-Denso disty. If you do swap to the 82 disty,there is no need to swap alts. to internally regged. Doing so would leave you w/o fuel pump power I think.

Closer to the tach the better.Lighter should be OK.You are looking for any significant voltage.While you have the meter out,try another reading between the alternator case and large output wire w/headlights on,RPMs up.This will test the alternator for undesireable AC output.

Steady reading on the inductive tach shows the ignition primary and secondary are OK.No need to troubleshoot furthur. Looks like your dash tach is picking up electrical noise from a worn fan motor.A bad dash ground might be an aggravating factor. Tach itself is probably OK. Try taking an AC voltage reading w/the fan on.

Sorry,but that theory doesn`t fly. You are saying that the alternator is unable to maintain charging voltage w/the added current draw of the fan. Only way that would be true is if it was weaker than expected or we would all have jumpy tachs w/the fan on.

"Fan switch has nothing to do with it - it's just creating a draw on the electrical system, and the distributor is no longer able to cope with the lower amps." So,what do you mean by this? "lower amps"?? Is the electrical system working or not?

"To make matters worse, after pulling the original one, I can't feel any freeplay in the shaft/bearing fit. Seems fine to me."

They gave you an ea-81 disty. If your bushings are OK it would be a waste of money anyway. As long as your car isn`t a calif. automatic your disty will be either 22100 AA120 or 121. Like I tried to tell you before,if the tach and engine are affected by the heater fan,you have electrical issues. Worn disty bushings don`t enter the picture. I would monitor both DC and AC voltage at the positive supply to the ignition module. Try a different fan too.A very worn one could generate enough electrical noise to confuse some electronics.

A weak alternator or bad harness connection come to mind. Consider a loose timing belt for the eratic tach too.

R&T mag road tested a US Star in the sept, 69 issue.

No resistor pack on an ea-81t.

If you have no power at either wire w/the injector disconnected,either the fusible link or wiring harness is open. As long as the starter works,it is not an auto/std. harness issue.

Turbos DO have rev sensors.They are incorperated into the ECU. Does the fuel pump run for more than a couple seconds?You can check by putting a voltmeter on the pump while cranking. Do you have 12V at the injectors ALL THE TIME? If not,check the fusible links. Any codes?ECU light on?

Did you tighten the vertical screws that attach the "throttle body" to the main casting? They are inacessible unless the carb is removed.I`ve found these to be a problem on the carter/webers.

Flapper or hotwire MAF?What year? ECS light should be on w/key on engine off. Are you saying that you are running a MPFI ECU on a turbo ? Sounds a bit like the shielded ignition pulse wire from coil - to the ECU is disconnected,but,w/no ECS light who knows.(flapper style only?) I would put a voltmeter on the fuel pump to see if voltage drops outs right before shutdown.If that was OK,I would check fuel pressure.