naru

Most likely you have another vacuum leak. Since you have fast cold idle which decreases w/run time,the AAV is fine. Warm idle speed is controlled by the brass idle speed screw on top of the throttle body.You might try adjusting it. TPS/idle switch is worth checking too.

Did the vibration start after axle replacement? Sounds like a bad inner CV.A lot of "rebuilt" axles are of dubious quality. Not likely a clutch problem.

Rotating assemblies http://members.shaw.ca/kfgroup/oem_turbo.htm Parts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IHI-RHB5-REBUILT-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8061303583QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Realign the factory marks and it will be as balanced as it was before disassembly.

Doubt very much it is a turbo problem,but,you could easily check by removing/blocking the turbo coolant lines. Intake gasket sounds likely,I would do a pressure test.

Nope,Different.

NO,pre 87s won`t work.I`d stay away from XTs too. You want to match this #.22611AA410. Unfortunately that # is unique to 1988 49 state non-XT turbos. Not positive whether an 88-9 calif. turbo(AA480) or 89 49 state(AA630) turbo ECU might work properly,but,I doubt it.

Yes.89 edition.

Some contradictions,but,this is what the book says. 320 for MPI XTs 1/87 to 7/87 073 for 86-87 MPI & Turbo XTs 86-7 incl. turbo 4wd 290 for turbo XTs 1/87 to 7/87 520 for 88 MPI XTs 640 for 89 MPI XTs

If they are good and you have no voltage at the injectors,you must have a bad wiring harness. ECU receives a RPM signal(only) from the gray wire on coil -. ECU has no indication of crank position at all other than some cyl. is at firing position. ECU is only interested in RPM. EA-81Ts are not sequential injection.

If you really have no power at the injectors,then you have a blown fusible link not ECU problems.The ECU completes the ground side of the circuit.Injectors should be powered all the time. BTW Your engine doesn`t have a crank angle sensor.

Classic plugged filter symptoms.Change BOTH of them.

You must have mis-read.87 turbos don`t get replaced w/86s. All turbos get replaced w/the sport model. No difference between 86-7 wastegate acuators but the rally mod uses a different one.

Seeing how it starts w/ether,it is more likely a fuel problem than spark. Sounds like it might be flooded. Could be not enough fuel too despite the gasoline odor. I would clean and dry the plugs and try again w/the CTS disconnected. Check for spark at each cyl. too. If that didn`t work,I would check fuel pressure in order to reveal plugged filters or leaky or stuck injectors. Has this car ever run for you?

HUH? How do you figure that?

Yes,you need the grey wire. Code 11 is normal on a no start but in your case it IS significant. It is the ignition pulse signal wire to the ECU.W/O it,the ECU doesn`t know engine RPM. Code 12 reflects the fact that the ECU hasn`t seen 12V on pin 9 from the starter solenoid.12V here puts the ECU into start mode.Don`t remember for sure,but,I think this is normal if the starter hasn`t been used for a while.

Oops,missed that one.It goes w/the yellows.

You should have 5 small gauge wires in addition to the HT lead. 3 blacks to coil +. 2 yellows to coil -.

Dual carb http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=41503&Subaru

Maybe,but,if it holds vacuum and moves it is good.

Ain`t no such thing as an EA-81T fuel cut. Did the problem start after exhaust mods? Sounds to me like the knock sensor is pulling back timing. Check your dizzy centrifugal advance too(they stick).

No difference at all as long as it is auto. Non-auto rads have lower BTU/min. Non-auto rads are narrower. Thinner? too I think.

Here`s one:http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142

There is a vacuum thingy (FICD) that opens the throttle a little w/AC on.Set the AC idle speed by loosening the locknut and turning the adjustment screw w/AC on.

Yes,The turbo dizzy advances too slowly for your engine.

That`s normal and proper for a no start.