naru

This has to be the WORST ADVICE EVER!!! Remove the boot and unscrew the inner tie-rod.

No worries-take your ohmmeter.It will show bad ones 100% of the time.

I don't understand how a TPS symptoms would exhibit when warm and not cold. I can understand this with CTS or AFM, O2 sensor, etc. TPS I would think would either be faulty or not independent of engine temp... The over rich mixture it provides is inconsequental until warm.

Ideas? TPS goes smoothly through range of voltage when tested. However, resistance stays at 2k ohms or so instead of dropping to 700-100 as per Haynes.

30539 Aa000

I don`t know why you would think computer control of the EGR and ignition advance is a prerequisite. No ECU black majic is necessary to open the EGR enough to reduce throttling losses at cruise. Even though it doesn`t directly sense EGR position or flow,the SPFI computer is optimizing ignition timing based on expected EGR flow. Remove the EGR and you have less than optimum timing. Same argument applies to EA-81s. Even the clunky old mechanical advance distributors in our EA-81s have curves optimized for a certain EGR flow. Remove the EGR and now you have too much advance at cruise and subsequent detonation unless you have modified the vacuum advance. No problem you say,I`ll just retard the timing a couple degrees. Now the timing is too retarded all the time except part throttle cruise. I can hear the chorus now of "but I don`t hear any pinging." Either you are not hearing it or you weren`t running enough ignition advance to begin with. I can`t take credit for the info in my last post hence the OBD reference.

Fuel efficiency mode EGR has been used to increase fuel efficiency on many cars since the mid-1980s. During steady throttle cruise conditions, EGR is used to reduce throttling losses. Throttling losses are energy that is used to create intake manifold vacuum and overcome the intake restriction of the throttle. It takes significant horsepower to create the intake manifold vacuum that occurs under cruise conditions. During light-load cruise conditions, the EGR valve is gradually opened much more than is necessary for NOX emission control.The open EGR valve reduces intake vacuum and replaces some intake airflow with EGR flow.The reduced intake airflow reduces engine power, but the throttle is gradually opened to replace the lost airflow. Either the cruise control or the driver does the throttle opening. Because the EGR valve is opened very gradually, the driver doesn't even notice that he is opening the throttle to maintain speed. The end result is that intake airflow and therefore, the fuel flow are both slightly reduced, but intake manifold vacuum and throttle losses are significantly reduced. The benefit is reduced fuel consumption under freeway conditions. This EGR based fuel efficiency mode is common on EGR equipped vehicles built during and after the mid-1980s. Ignition advance EGR flow can be used to allow increased ignition timing advance. That means the computer strategies used to control ignition timing are heavily influenced by EGR. As EGR flow increases, ignition timing is automatically advanced. Anytime EGR is reduced, ignition timing is automatically retarded. This response seems to be especially strong and quick on OBD II vehicles. It is so effective that disabling EGR will rarely result in a NOX emission failure in loaded mode emission tests. But, disabled EGR valves will usually result in increased fuel consumption and reduced power because of the impact on ignition advance. Combustion chamber temperatures EGR reduces NOX formation by reducing combustion temperatures. The exhaust gases that are recirculated slow the combustion process and reduce peak temperatures. Modern engines that use EGR systems are designed to perform very well with the slower combustion that EGR causes. When the EGR system on one of these engines is disabled, combustion chamber temperatures can rise dramatically and actually melt components. The advanced computer-controlled systems on newer cars prevent this from happening, but it still occurs on many older cars.

cts is the coolant temp sender. I think it is on the rear of the manifold on your engine.

You are flooded.Most likely leaky injectors.Check the CTS too-try unplugging it.

Totally believable for a leaky EGR.I meant no gain from disabling a working one.

But you are still emitting more NOx and burning more gas for no gain.

Disabling a functional EGR is a DUMB idea.Among other problems,gas mileage and power will go DOWN because of engine throttling losses at cruise.

Carb icing occurs above 32 degrees ambient.

OK,Great.Carb icing sounds like a possibility,especially if the heat stove pipe to the aircleaner is missing in your climate.Check by removing the aircleaner as quickly as possible after stalling and shining a flashlight down the carb. Or if it stalls at idle and restarts easily w/the throttle floored,the carb is flooding.

Start by changing BOTH fuel filters if you haven`t already.

If you have an extra injector,no cash and time on your hands,you may be able to ID and replace a wonky one by running the motor on each combination of 3 cyl. noting RPM variations.Move a suspect injector to another cyl. to confirm.I would disconnect injectors rather than plugs. Or,you could take them off to see if they drip.

Adjust the throttle stop so that the throttle is 1/4 turn open from fully closed.This is enough to prevent the throttle from binding due to wear,but,not enough to allow significant vacuum to appear at the ported vacuum connection above the throttle plate. Are you in closed loop when the idle varies?O2 light flashing?Fresh O2 sensor? Seeing how you did so much other work,I think injector cleaning and testing is in order.

Looks like an updated DGEV to me http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8033438385&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting I wouldn`t dismiss all Solexes on the basis of a worn out 30 year old emissions carb.The 2bbl downdraft solexes are a higher quality carb than the weber dgv series(more tunable).Try changing venturies on a DGV!

It would if manifold vacuum was the source.Almost all dizzys use ported vacuum(ea-82 included).Big difference.Only time removing the hose makes a difference is if the throttle stop is misadjusted. (carb or FI)

Dunno,but,I would still Monitor the spark output w/a timing light,inline spark tester etc. as the rpms drop.

That is just plain wrong,my friend. 2 bearings and 2 different carriers 83-84 for FWD and 4WD.

Every time you pump the pedal you are emptying the booster vacuum chamber into the manifold.This is unmetered air.Since RPMs increase you must be a liitle rich.Monitoring the O2 sensor output voltage could prove entertaining.

Probably the AAV.

NO