naru

I would play w/the dashpot adjustment.It slows throttle closure after all.

Despite the test,it sounds like you have an intermittent module.Monitor the spark output w/a timing light,inline spark tester etc. as the rpms drop.If spark drops out but coil voltage stays OK it is a disty problem. If you are running an ea-82 the same comments apply to the ignition amp. A current draw heavy enough to smoke the coil could certainly damage either component.

Ignition relay switches 27 and 35.

Yes,See if it holds vacuum.Make sure there is no fuel in the vacuum line. Suction side is the line to the tank.Might be sucking a little air through a poor connection. Note that fuel flows through the reg all the time,so a little noise is probably normal.

That would be the fuel filter.If I was you,I`d take it off to see how plugged it is.Probably mucho. Or if you mean the thing in the middle,that is the pressure reg.Take the hose off the bottom and see if the diaphram is ruptured.

You can ignore the water lines if you want.Your turbo will be equally durable to the original strictly oil cooled one.My original 1984 oil cooled turbocharger went 140k miles.For added life,hook up the lines.

PS or Pferdestaerke is the Metric Horsepower. 1PS = 75 kgm/s 1PS = 736 watts 1HP = 746 watts Check out the factory rally modification manual at that site.Looks like the Euro ECU is the way to go for EA-82Ts.

Sounds like a distibutor problem.You don`t have any crappy timing belts.

I was making the point that not all RHB5 internals are the same like you said they were.

Well actually,YOU were.You said: ". An RHB5 is an RHB5 is an RHB5 no matter how you dress it up on the outside. " An EA81 RHB5 VF1 and several other RHB5s are different internally not just "on the outside". Like I said before,I believe you can sucessfully swap housings on VF2s.4s,7s, and VJ5s and 11s so,no,I don`t think you are lying.

Congratulations on spotting that the replacement CHRAs are the same.They are in fact,IHI# 553T-531.The VJ5 uses this cartridge too.Good news for me,I just picked up a freebee. Note that the original cartridges weren`t identical.For instance,VF2 and VF4 EA-82 Subaru turbos and the VJ5 Mazda turbos all share the same replcement cartridge,but all originally had different trim compressor wheels.VF2-59 trim,VF4-77,VJ5-63. Anybody know what # is cast into a VF7 compressor wheel? As for an RHB5 being an RHB5,no matter what housings you have,That is not true.If it was,nobody would use the T-bird compressor.Look at the number of different RHB5 cartridges there are on this page:http://www.turbointernational.com/search_results.asp?turboModel=409 EA-81T RHB5s don`t share any rotating parts w/EA-82 RHB5s,and you certainly can`t swap housings w/o rotating parts.If you saw the wheels side by side,you wouldn`t think that they had maps that were identical or very close either.

Yes,the entire pump is different.

Because of thier extremely unpretentious proletarian style functionality

Couldn`t you just run a single belt? There is a good pic of the brackets on page 140 of the ea-81 parts manual here:http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142Try the part#s,they might still be good. On a related note,the same book shows that hydro lifter rocker arms are different than solid lifter rocker arms(not just the whole rocker assy.). BTW,83 and 84 turbo alternators have different Subaru part#s. I think all 83 turbos had AC while it was optional in 84. Alternately,perhaps you could add the N/A PS pump along w/the N/A bracket,waterpump and pulley like redskin.Might fit.

So did the ea81t ever come out with no AC, and if so, what does the alternator bracket look like? cheers. Yes.It is 2 piece w/a slotted L bracket mounted on the head for belt adjustment.The inboard pivot bracket mounts to the block w/2 bolts just above the inboard side of the water pump.

Dunno for sure,but,the hydro pushrods are longer.The rocker assy. has different part#s.Could be the difference is as small as the added lockwasher for hydro cars. EDIT-Turns out the rocker arms themselves are different too.

The vacuum switches don`t have anything to do with timing.There is a thermosensor that does though. They should both be hooked to manifold vacuum.Between them,the two switches act like a primitive map sensor w/two different trigger points. Switch #1 tells the ECU to ignore the O2 sensor under certain conditions. Switch #2 tells the ECU to respond more quickly To the O2 sensor under certain conditions.

Not a big deal,but,you`ve got a little extra work.Your axle is not WASTED. You have managed to pull the inner tripod assy. past the sorta flimsy snap ring in the inner CV cage.You need to undo the large end of the boot to refit the ring.

Cam,lifters,pushrods,rocker shafts,and valve springs are different.

If it is an automatic,a leaking transmission cooler will put oil in the rad without combustion gases.