naru

Any ideas ? ? ? How come I can only seem to find a pair of green connectors and no white or black ones ? ? ? Because there are no white or black ones-don`t believe everything you read. You need to read codes while the ECS light is on.It doesn`t matter if the green test connectors are connected or not. Code 11 is normal. Good luck.

That`s actually pretty good news.You`ve got a blown fusible link.

Your CAS or wiring harness is shorted out.Try another disty.

It would make a lot of sense after your lone ignition module craps out 10,000 feet over water. Here is a dual ignition EA-81.EA-82 similar. http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chengine7.htm

First ones are May 87 up,4D or wagon, w/turbo and single range or auto 4wd. GA 101 is a 85-86 RH front from a 2wd wagon w/o PS. Not sure about the rears.

Can someone verify that all 87T ECU's are the same? I have ran into some wierd mis-matches on 87 models and want to make sure this correct part.[/color] Mine came off a late 87 model, BTW... John 1987 had 4 different turbo ECUs.2for wagons,2 for XTs. They appear to be interchangable within body styles at least. Part # for the wagon ones ends in 140 or 141.

That must be a lame dealer. Original front struts were 21009 GA281(RH) and GA291(LH). Rear shocks are 21022 GA840(1985) and 21007 GA880.

Your car neither has a fuel pump relay nor does the ECU control the pump. It has a seperate transistorized fuel pump control unit. If you hotwired the pump w/the FPCU still in the circuit,it may have been damaged. The pump grounds to the body.I would be checking that.

There are 3 different ea-82t cams. 1. up to 2/85 2. 2/85-86 3. 87 up except 88-89 XTs

Chilton`s has it wrong like usual.There are actually at least 5 different non-justy MT carbs 85-7.Here is a good list: http://www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/

The lettering is unpainted aluminum.

Did you miss the point about throttling losses? That relates directly to engine efficiency not emission control. Who cares what you`ve SEEN?What does that have to do w/anything?

I think the original statement about not disabling an existing EGR stands up well for the following reasons: Fuel efficiency mode EGR has been used to increase fuel efficiency on many cars since the mid-1980s. During steady throttle cruise conditions, EGR is used to reduce throttling losses. Throttling losses are energy that is used to create intake manifold vacuum and overcome the intake restriction of the throttle. It takes significant horsepower to create the intake manifold vacuum that occurs under cruise conditions. During light-load cruise conditions, the EGR valve is gradually opened much more than is necessary for N[O.sub.X] emission control. The open EGR valve reduces intake vacuum and replaces some intake airflow with EGR flow. The reduced intake airflow reduces engine power, but the throttle is gradually opened to replace the lost airflow. Either the cruise control or the driver does the throttle opening. Because the EGR valve is opened very gradually, the driver doesn't even notice that he is opening the throttle to maintain speed. The end result is intake airflow and, therefore, the fuel flow are both slightly reduced, but intake manifold vacuum and throttle losses are significantly reduced. The benefit is reduced fuel consumption under freeway conditions. This EGR based fuel efficiency mode is common on EGR equipped vehicles built during and after the mid-1980s. Ignition advance EGR flow can be used to allow increased ignition timing advance. That means the computer strategies used to control ignition timing are heavily influenced by EGR. As EGR flow increases, ignition timing is automatically advanced. Anytime EGR is reduced, ignition timing is automatically retarded. This response seems to be especially strong and quick on OBD II vehicles. It is so effective that disabling EGR will rarely result in a N[O.sub.X] emission failure in loaded mode emission tests. But, disabled EGR valves will usually result in increased fuel consumption and reduced power because of the impact on ignition advance. Combustion chamber temperatures EGR reduces N[O.sub.X] formation by reducing combustion temperatures. The exhaust gases that are recirculated slow the combustion process and reduce peak temperatures. Modern engines that use EGR systems are designed to perform very well with the slower combustion that EGR causes. When the EGR system on one of these engines is disabled, combustion chamber temperatures can rise dramatically and actually melt components. The advanced computer-controlled systems on newer cars prevent this from happening, but it still occurs on many older cars.

Bad alternator diodes.DC voltage may check OK.

It should,codes 11 and 12 are normal w/the engine stopped. Are you able to read ANY codes on the wagon? Sounds like a wonky ECU.Code 11 should show anytime ignition pulses are absent. The 2 relays under the pass. seat are the ignition and fuel pump relays.They should not be cycling unless the test connector is connected.Try swapping relays from the running car.

It is the one in the flange,assuming it is the same as a north american 1984 engine(likely).Top port goes to the aircleaner,middle to EGR and bottom to the disty. Top 2 ports open below 30 C,closed above 40 C. Bottom 2 ports open above 20,closed below 10.

-- do you think the same chalk mark technique will show the same difference if all four wheels are up in the air? Yes,but w/the wheels in the air, the diffs will allow side to side rotational differences that may confuse the issue.

Sure sounds like the front/rear tires/differentials are mismatched. I would check by going to a gravel road,engaging 4wd,stopping,and then marking each tire w/chalk.Drive forward 10 turns and compare alignment.This will show which end has which of the 2 possible ratios(if the tires are the same size). Subaru North America had 5 different part-time 5 speed D/R transaxle part# 85-9.One of them is specific to 87 Calif. GLs!Only one is listed for your car, Subaru part 32000 AB520,ID# TW75F9A2BV

Not really,but the 3 Bond has a Subaru part #.004403008 superceded by 004403007.About $18.

Subaru wants you to use one on ea-81 head gaskets.They suggest" 3 bond 1201" or "Dow Corning 92-024" though I`m sure others would work.

It is an ea-82 subaru turbo used between Jan 87 and March 88.Try a dealer for confirmation.

CTS is below the blue circle in pic#1. O2 sensor is highly reccomended,but,is unlikely to be your problem as the ECU ignores it above 1/3 throttle. Your turbo is plumbed uncoventionly.Normally,one side is teed into the heater hoses and the other attaches to a drain plug hole on the bottom of the RH head. Actually,the thermovalve is not all that essential,but,it does make a difference how the hoses are hooked up after its removal.The thermovalve disables cannister purge,EGR operation and disty vacuum advance at low temps. Depending on how the vacuum hoses are routed now,the EGR may be non-functional.If so,you may have detonation when warm resulting in the knock sensor retarding timing(power loss). Fuel pressure should be 26-30 psi at idle. By the way,ea-82 turbos fit ea-81 downpipes by elongating 2 of the mounting holes

No and very unlikely.

CTS=coolant temperature sender.The computer supplies less fuel as coolant temp increases.Yours may take this to an unpowerful extreme. Unplugging the CTS will cause the ECU to default to a richer cold engine fuel mixture.It is located below the upper rad hose adjacent to the disty vacuum advance.(have the engine off when you unplug it) Some other things to consider would be a weak fuel pump or a fault in a vacuum system controlled by one of the thermovalves.

Sounds like a CTS problem.Try unplugging it after the car warms up.