naru

Pumps are the same and motors are smoooth.

You`re right,air horn is another name for the top of the carb. Correct on the 2 adjustments as well.Float height and drop in that order.Fuel in the middle of the glass.

There are no water seals.Only way the centre housing is going to leak is if it is cracked.That should be easy to spot. Are you sure the problem isn`t the water pipes/banjo fittings? A cracked pipe perhaps? If the housing was cracked,and if I was you,I would get some more mileage out of the turbo by plumbing the water lines together and running it w/o water cooling like an ea81t VF-1 turbo. Does your VF-2 turbo have part# 14412 AA002 on the tag? Is your car an 85? Vanislru-What kind of snap ring pliers did you use to remove the bearing snap rings? I can`t find a pair small enough.

Thermoswitch to FAN negative not battery. Actually,+ side takes power from fuse #4(15 amps) in stock configuration. No real problem w/positive side of the fan being hooked to battery positive except that it is now unfused(add an inline one) and the fan will continue running with the key off if the rad is hot enough(normal on many cars). You could retain your manual switch in order to turn the fan off for deep water crossings and have the best of both worlds. PS-No relay except on turbos.

Disconnect the permanent ground from the cooling fan and connect it to the thermoswitch to be stock.

If rpm doesn`t decrease when the valve is opened by hand at idle,most likely the port is blocked.

I suppose blk/yellow and blk/red go to a knock control, but does anyone have any insight as to how the knock control does its job? what signaling it does? what signal should be on that blk/yellow? I don't have a knock control unit to test it myself. mighty thanks to anyone who has this sort of teci info on this dizy BY is the phase control signal. BR is the ignition timing signal.Both connect to the KCU. Under normal running KCU, provides 3.1V on BY for nominal timing. Under detonation,KCU increases BY voltage in steps up to 5.8V to provide up to 10 degrees of ignition retard as long as RPM is less than 4850.No retard function above 4850 RPM. When the KCU gets a high altitude signal,it will advance timing 5 degrees(by decreasing BY to 1.7 volts I think).

The fact that your convertor became blocked shortly after the idle problems began is strongly suggestive of unburnt fuel entering the exhaust from a leaky carb float valve.

According to 1stsubaru that is not the correct one. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/part_number.html They do however list the correct one(429487000)for about $150. I thought ea-81ts weren`t sold in Australia,so it seems strange that a dealer would have one in stock.

YES

Apparently so,$288 at 1st subaru.

The knock control units are different.I don`t know if the sensors are compatible or not but you could probably use the ea-82t control unit with the ea-82t sensor in your car.

Yes,at extra slow rotation speed the pressure leaks down. If you had been a little more careful matching the original rotor/housing positioning before rotating the engine this step would be unnecessary. If it still doesn`t start w/a ballpark timing setting, ensure the plugs aren`t fuel fouled from previous starting attempts and either use a timing light to dial it in or rotate the disty through the range of timing adjustment while someone else cranks the engine.This always works.

429487000

One thing that worries me: THe module i bought has different numbers on it (the white painted ones): the original one said something like 15x5, the ea82t one says something like 20x5 (not sure if the numbers are right, the cars' not here at the moment). Do these mean anything? Thanks. Every module I`ve ever seen has different #s.EA-81T and EA-82T modules are identical.

The relay in the coil+ circuit is non-stock. Not sure about the "large whiteish wire".Coil - should have 2 wires,one sraight to the module,the other is the ignition pulse signal to the ECU and tach.On my 84 turbo they are both yellow. Considering that you`ve swapped coils and powered it directly from the battery,the module IS starting to look suspect.As I mentioned previously,they usually fail completely,but,I`ve seen them fail only when warmed up and only in extra cold weather too.Last failed one I disassembled had a tiny surface mount component that became unsoldered. Before splashing out for a module,you may want to consider some other items. An obscure failure that I saw once was a poor ground between a body mounted coil and the engine.In this case idle rpm would increase while leaning over the engine compartment and touching the engine! An intermittent open in the wiring harness(es). Put your ohmmeter on either end and wiggle them around. Some strange failure in the knock control unit(highly unlikely).

Nope,different.Might work though.

Who knows? Buy a better grade of gas if you are worried. I would continue to drive if I was you.

My ea-81 turbo is a VF-1 FWIW,parts book shows 4 different turbo part#s almost by year as follows:14412aa002-85,14412aa003-86,14412aa031-87-march 88,14412aa032-march 88 up I`m thinking some may be VF-4,some VF-7, How about a poll?

Hmmm...It gets a little stranger.If that sound is really new,I would suggest that the carby secondary barrel may be sticking open slightly. I would have a look at the plugs as well as consider some not necessarily heat releated items like: carb flooding,anti-diesel solenoid,sticking EGR,vacuum leaks etc.

Sounds more like a transmission input bearing to me especially if you had no noise previous to the trans swap. Pilot bearing only turns when the clutch is disengaged(pedal down). Not familar w/the forester,but,on 99% of cars the throwout bearing also only turns w/the clutch disengaged.

If you prefer to worry,I`ve seen a bad head gasket do much the same.WOT clears the coolant fouled plug.Loosing any coolant?

WOT won`t cure vapour lock and battery problems would have been evidenced by slow cranking.A quick rev wouldn`t charge the battery. I think fuel in the float bowl percolated in the high heat resulting in a too rich mixture and possibly a fouled plug.Your WOT "Italian tune-up" cleared the extra fuel and dried the plug(s).

No difference for AC cars 83-84 Some difference for auto/MT(tranny cooler?) Minor(?)difference for FWD MT and 4WD MT cars

now increase rpm and see if advance decreases Advance should increase w/increasing rpm,not decrease. Good advice re checking the vacuum advance. No need to fool around pulling spark plugs to put #1 at TDC. Just mark the rotor position relative to the housing before pulling the original disty and install the new one w/the same relative orientation.