naru

if its a flapper system, run any flapper maf. no diff between turbo, na, or 6 cylinder Not what the parts book says. 3 different, turbo,85 MPI,86+ MPI No interchangability indicated. No 6 cyl. flappers

would this be the same for air flow meters NO.

Maximium clearance allowable between the disty shaft and the housing is .0024 inch.I would be cautious about replacing the coil w/one with a lower than stock primary resistance as the module`s current carrying ability is limited.I`m curious what you had to pay for a magnet?

I was thinking that it may be the ignition module, but seeing as it doesn't seem there is an aftermarket replacement and the oem one is so expensive, i want to rule out everything else first. Just looking for some suggestions on what else to check? Cheers. Excessive distributor shaft sideplay,that broken magnet,maladjusted stator,flaky coil + supply,and an intermittent coil.I know it is possible to install the magnet backwards on some distys as well.Modules are usually go,no-go,but I`ve seen other failure modes on rare occasion.

There is NO WAY the carb bowl is going to "drainback" no matter what else is wrong.(maybe if you turned the car upside down overnight) I presume you`re talking about the stock Carter-Weber rather than an aftermarket DGV series Weber. If so,the clicking is the air bleed duty solenoid and is normal and required. From your description,it sounds like the choke pull-off is non-functional.It should open the choke slightly when the engine is cranked even in very cold weather. If I was you,I would observe the choke to make sure it goes from fully closed to slightly open while someone cranks the engine. Best of luck.

Must be common.Both I have are broken.The better one looks exactly like yours,the other is in 4 pieces.My 2 piece one works fine,but I rotated the pieces until the gap was eliminated.(magnetic "circuit" still complete,it doesn`t know it is broken) I suppose you could superglue it back together,but I didn`t bother. I think worn disty bushings allowing the reluctor to hit the stator is the cause. 99.9% sure that 83-84 turbos use the same magnet as 85-86 turbos and the 85-86 one IS available.My ea-82 parts book suggests that at least some non-turbo 85-86s also use this magnet.Part#491988711.Amazingly,price is under $10!!! At that price,I think I`ll buy a new one too. LOL

Good question.Nothing specific mentioned in the FSM,but reading between the lines of the throttle switch adjustment procedure suggests that the throttle will be at exactly 0 degrees when the stop screw is adjusted properly.

Mr.Carb-You`ll be sorry if you mess w/that.Mixture is feedback controlled during cruise anyway.Check the airflow meter potentiometer for smooth resistance change thru the range of movement of the flapper door instead. Are you still trying to pass emissions without a catlyst? That could be problematic. The 84 FSM has ea-81t info.Here is the troubleshooting chart for an ea-81t w/high HC or CO: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3971

Certainly,Larger towns will usually have a shop that specializes in diesel injector cleaning.They can do an ultrasonic cleaning and a flow/leak test. As for the surging, I`d be looking at other things first. Timing correct? Centrifugal advance sticky/stuck? High resistance throttle switch contacts?(mine were,easy to take apart and clean),throttle switch maladjusted?throttle stop screw maladjusted?(this will affect the ported vacuum signal to the disty vacuum advance),dead or lazy O2 sensor?(mine was),the proverbial vacuum leaks? Detonation?(you won`t necessarily hear it,knock sensor has a much more sensitive ear,you can monitor it by plugging a voltmeter into check connector #3 under the dash) If I was you,I would tap into the O2 sensor signal line w/a digital voltmeter to see what the O2 sensor says while the surge is occuring.

I have heard that bad signals from various sensors can cause the ECU to shut down the fuel pump. I have heard coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, TPS, MAF, etc. My big question to the Subaru gurus out there, is which, if any, of these sensors will cause the ECU to not send a signal to the relay? Thanks for your help, guys. Sorry this message was so long. None of them.

Try 1stsubaruparts.Synchro Parts are still available according to thier online catalog.Blocker rings $28,sleeve $61,hub $81.They might have to get them from Japan though.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3820&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Wanna buy a parts book?

I said "Why? No turbo."(re piston destruction) not "Why no turbo?"

Why? No turbo.

I think this would work fine.Swap distys too.You`ll also want to swap the transmission vacuum modulator to a non-turbo one.

Leaky injector.

Not necessarily,It could be a bad ground.

Any auto supply place.They might call it an ignition module or ignitor though.

I bought a complete used dizzy in order to get a good vacuum advance.

No.

Non-turbo 88-9 4WD GL and GL-10 4Ds and wagons would have one too.

My hardcopy parts catalog says the part yee seek is only on 2WD GL and GL-10 4DS and wagons 88-89.Not RXs.

Yes,like calebz said,normally boost in psi and vacuum in inches of mercury.No reason the same units couldn`t be used for both though, like gauges calibrated in BAR do. There is an almost endless number of different units for pressure measurement.Here is a very handy covertor:http://www.fortunecity.com/meltingpot/portland/508/tools/convertor/pressuretxt.htm Furthur confusing matters is the difference between gauge pressure and absolute pressure.Gauge pressure is the difference between the measured pressure and atmospheric pressure. eg. When your motor is off,boost gauge reads 0,even though it sees atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi.At 10 psi indicated boost the absolute pressure is 24.7 psi. A vacuum gauge reading of 20 inches of mercury is equilivent to an absolute pressure of 4.88 psi or a gauge pressure of -9.82 psi.