naru

Could this item be the device that shuts off the fuel pump in the event of a crash? BTW the 89 FSM shows this devise in use ONLY on automatic shoulder belt models Thats exactly what it does in my diagram.

You guys all have supernatural vacuum.Atmospheric pressure is only 14.7 psi.

My info shows a Rev sensor aka fuel cut unit ONLY on 89 non XTs. However,I don`t see it in the 89 FSM.Go figure.

84 calif. and FWD 744100450 84 Fed 4WD 744100440

Don`t know who you were talking to but a 60 second goggle search shows lots of kits. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Repairkits.htm http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberparts.asp

Sounds like you are using the throttle stop screw rather than the idle adjusting screw. The idle screw is a vertical brass one that will be turned in for lowest rpm and out for higher. A leak at the AAV may cause a high idle.

Forget the test connectors,forget haynes. Spec is 15 +/- 2 BTDC at 800 rpm w/vacuum plugged and the single wire connector from the altitude switch disconnected. (near the coil on NA models) idle switch is built into the "tps"

naru, by the looks of it, if i have sparks, i must have a computer thats doin its job right? It is a very good sign.

That is incorrect Subaru Master. Computer controls coil ground through the WY wire to pins 37 and 43. Note that both BWs go to coil+,WY and Y to coil-.Your diagram isn`t clear on that point.Perhaps that is your problem?

Unleaded will kill both the O2 sensor and the catalyst. Don`t think it will plug the cat just destroy its effectiveness. Additionally,leaded gas pump nozzles aren`t supposed to fit an unleaded filler neck.

No,the computer controls the ground circuit.

Sounds like a crappy rebuild to me. Generally speaking,auto trans "morning sickness" is due to leaking seals that improve with heat. "Could it be the computer?" Maybe the flare,but I doubt it.Definately not the morning sickness.Don`t think you can disable it. Which part of the car is your rebuilder trying to blame? Only relavent item I can think of is low engine vacuum and that wouldn`t give your symptoms. Regardless a tranny man should be able to diagnose it. I would take it somewhere else for a written diagnosis,pressure test etc.About 1 hour of shop time.

Been a while since I did it so I had a quick look at the FSM to be sure. Just remove the through bolts and tap it apart.EA-81,but I`m sure they are all the same.

Yes,Brushes are a piece of cake.Requires a soldering iron. Regulator a little trickier,but not much.

-40 in comox?? What year was that?

Timing is the sum of intial(base) timing and the vacuum and mechanical advances. At 3000 rpm and -300mmHg advance =25+10+10=45 BTDC Note that -300mmHg is maximum vacuum not max.boost At3000rpm,300mmhg(max boost)=25+10-5=30 BTDC At 1000 rpm you will indeed have 2.5 degrees from the mechanical advance. If you set base timing at 1000rpm subtract 2.5 from the totals above. All this assuming the knock control unit isn`t hearing any detonation and retarding timing on its own.

ECU isn`t seeing any ignition pulses(rpm signal) from the coil. Normal w/engine off I believe.

As well as a tired pump,I`ve seen your original symptoms from carb icing(it melts quick-heat pipe hooked up?)and a bad filter sock in the tank(non-sube). However,since it works well hot wired,that seems to rule those out unless your weather has changed(icing). Could be the FPCU can`t handle the higher current draw demanded by the pump at high flow. Engine won`t die immediately when the pump is unpowered,but will run incresingly badly until fuel level in the carb is too low. FPCU doesn`t sense temp,it merely supplies power to the choke heater and pump when it sees ignition pulses at the coil.Only reason I can see for powering the choke this way is to prevent the choke from opening w/the key on and engine off. Unless you disconnected the FPCU from the pump before hotwiring,it may have been (furthur?)damaged.Could be that is why it doesn`t reset any more. Wiring between the pump and FPCU is also suspect. Hooking a voltmeter to the pump under running conditions is a great idea. You may want to consider the filter screen inside the carb as well. Good luck.

If you didn`t have "codes for nearly everything", I would suspect low fuel pressure. Recently worked on one w/identical symptoms except codes. When cold there was just enough extra fuel to make it run (poorly). Mega codes suggest a bad ground to the ECU. Perhaps this is related to an incompatible idle control as suggested.I would try it w/the idle control disconnected. A more far out possibility would be AC voltage from bad alternator diodes blowing the ECUs mind.Try it w/the belt off.

If you read the gasoline FAQ it is obvious. The author makes the point,ad naseum,that octane rating is a measure of detonation resistance.Nothing more,nothing less. Octane rating is what we are talking about,not octane content.If you want to know about octane content read part 2 of the FAQ. Don`t recall suggesting anything about gas stations. Premimum gas=more power only in the sense that it helps avoid detonation in some engines. Plenty of modern engines require premimum.Buddy`s Honda SIR springs to mind.

Yes,No and No. Higher octane gas contains slightly less BTUs/litre. Higher octane gas isn`t harder to ignite or burn,it is merely more detonation resistant.

My owners manual says to use 90 RON. In my area gasoline is rated as (RON+MON)/2 I think 90 RON is equivilent to about 87-88 (R+M)/2 for most gasolines. My ea-81t pings on 87 R+M/2,isn`t bad on 89,is better on 91 and I haven`t tried enough 94 to be sure. I use 89 mostly.

Since you have power at coil+ but not negative,it means the coil is grounded all the time(instead of a pulsed ground).The power transistor being shorted to ground is the most likely cause.ECU could be supplying a bad signal to the transistor, but I doubt it. I don`t think there is any failure mode of the crank angle sensor inside the disty that would give the symptoms you describe. If it is indeed the ignition relay clicking,power will be intermittent at coil+.