naru

Like I said,check part#s.My info says the part# quoted above is for an 84 knock control compuer,not an engine computer.Try these guys instead. 1984 Engine Computer Subaru TURBO $85 Roz Auto Salvage RP+ Member USA-WI(Milwaukee) E-mail 1-800-281-2479

Try these guys:Check the part# 84 ECU, w/turbo, FED- 42088 7100 stock# K00775 $100 Gerry's Foreign Auto Parts USA-WA(Kittitas) E-mail 1-800-848-5578

Nope,different altogether.The gauge one is nearby w/one wire.

CTS is the coolant temperature sender.It tells the computer the engine temp. so it can adjust the mixture accordingly. It is a variable resistor of about 2.5k ohms at 20 degrees C.,under 1k ohms at 50C.Look for corrosion at the connector too.

Quote: Originally Posted by Mr. Carb Any clue where the cts and air temp sensors are? If you mean the ambiant air temperature switch, it is on the spare tire support. Air temp sensor for fuel injection is in the airflow meter.It is a variable resistor between terminals 1 and 5 of the airflow meter.(the outside ones) 20 degree C resistance is 2-3k.Lower at higher temps, higher at lower. CTS is the electrical doodad w/2 wires below the AAV,directly behind the cooling fan near the disty vacuum advance.

Not what my FSM says. Take a look at the attached scan of the knock control unit. There is no connection to the engine computer. FSM goes on to detail how timing will be retarded up to 10 degrees w/heavy detonation.(in fact, it is part of troubleshooting the KCU)

Actually AAV,auxilary air valve in FSM speak.

So how does the knock control unit work then?

I wasn`t trying to suggest it actually moves the main throttle. It is like a second throttle in paralell w/the main one. It is the fuel injection version of a fast idle cam,not a choke. All it does is bypass air around the main throttle. The airflow meter doesn`t know if the air went through the aac or by the throttle plate. The computer doesn`t "count on that little bit of extra air to lean it out a bit once it's warm". Actually it is open when cold and closed when warm.

Applying vacuum while knocking would advance the spark not retard it. Knock control units are electronic.That`s why turbo ignition modules have 4 terminals instead of the normal 2.One of the extras is a phase control signal wire from the KCU.

Nope,you missed the point.It doesn``t affect the mixture. it just "opens the throttle" a little. CTS and air temp. sensor will control mixture when cold.

You are wrong on all 3 counts my friend. All pre 87 turbo distys retard both mechanicly and electronicly. The "vacuum advance" also serves a pressure retard function.Take a look at the curves in your FSM. They will all retard electronicly when the knock control unit says to. Additionaly, they will all advance electronicly at high altitude. Your unburnt fuel is due to something other than the computer responding to detonation. Pre 87 engine computers can`t sense detonation directly and therefore can`t respond to it. (prove me wrong by pointing out the pin#) They will however enrichen the mixture when positive manifold pressure is sensed or the "full" contacts are closed in the tps.

Maybe on 87+`s,but 83-86 engine computers have no input from the knock control system and therefore no way of knowing when detonation is occuring.

No, Think of the aac as another throttle. Any air passing through it is metered so no mixture change. If it was stuck open,you would have a high warm idle. If it was stuck closed,you would have crappy/no cold idle.

Your parts man is correct.Bigger clutch is a little stronger but you`ll be OK with what you have.

I bet it makes no difference. Emissions system logic didn`t change drasticly because of an extra camshaft. 84 and 85 turbos share trouble codes even though one is EA-81 and the other EA-82. Easy enough to prove.Just remove the ignition pulse wire from the coil and see if a code other than 13 comes up.

Not sure about an 85 carby,but I imagine it is pretty mutch the same as an 84 carby in this regard. Code 13 looks to be for the ignition pulse system in a 49 state MT car with a hitachi carb and analog dash. FSM points to a series of troubleshooting charts in the FSM (and troubleshooting manual?)

Dealer might be able to ID it from the serial# you gave. My 84 has a 6 digit serial#.Yours seems low. I suspect the 80/8 is a date stamp but I couldn`t see one on mine to confirm. Less reliable, but,if you post the 9 digit# off the disty and the carb# I can probably ID it.

http://cgi.netscape.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7929078800&category=33742&sspagename=WDVW Anybody ever use one? Any words of wisdom to share?

Which pin are you talking about? Only pin I see is the roll pin that secures the coupler to the transfer shaft and it isn`t subject to a shear load. How do you know that is the problem w/o disassembly. Curious.

if you used water injection on na, you wouldnt even need a water pump, just stick the hose in the water, and it sucks it in. No,That wouldn`t work.In this case more water would be used under high vacuum than low.Exactly opposite of what is required. "What is the water spraying into? Intake? INtercooler? IS this a turbo car or just SPFI? What is water supposed to do. My understanding is that water is bad. It doesnt compress, and it doesnt burn. Meaning, it cant do much good to an engine other than cooling." It cools the intake charge allowing more optimum ignition timing w/o detonation or lowers the octane required. Water vapour compresses OK. Neither air nor water burn, but both take part in the oxidation of gasoline.Suggest you read this. http://not2fast.wryday.com/thermo/water_injection/water_chemistry.txt Almost all Formula 1 teams used water injection in the turbo days(early 80`s) until it was banned. I don`t think they banned it because it didn`t work. Here are a few details of its use by Renault. http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/coollinks3/index/race/renaultf1/renault.html

Your 4wd is controlled by an electronic solenoid and valve. This transfer solenoid is on the RH side of the transmission extension housing. I would check for power at the solenoid,solenoid continuity, and the valve for sticking. Proper fluid level too. Good luck.

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