Cyfun

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I've been researching front springs lately. From what I've found, aside from being progressive rate, all the various Tempo front springs are the same spring rate as a stock EA82, around 146. Also, the earlier Tempos had even less of a spring rate, like around 115. For those that suspect that perhaps Jeszek has rear Tempo springs, those too only have a 115 spring rate. But it is curious that his fit without any modification, but he still saw improved stiffness, lift, which indicates that these definitely were not off of ANY Tempo. Makes you wonder what the hell they came off of. However, if you have to cut the Tempo springs to fit, then that will increase their spring rate. To what, I do not know, one would have to take them in to get tested. But either way, it sounds like a lot of trouble to go to for little gain. So the search continues for a better candidate that hopefully doesn't need any cutting or modification. We should be concentrating on sports cars with large aftermarket followings, so that we can get them cheaply off of eBay, and have lots of variety with rates and lengths. So has any investigating using newer Subaru springs?

Well, Oreilly and Autozone only carry the 248 in stock. Napa appears to have both, not Moog but their Napa brand. However the ratings are different. Everything being equal again, the automatic springs are Design Load of 524, and the manual's are Design Load 484. But the rest of the specs are identical, including free height, load height, number of coils, and coil diameter. *shrug* auto manual

I'm curious as to how they visually compare. Next time I'm at my parts store, I'll have them pull botht the 246 and 248 so I can see them. They love me at the parts store.

No kidding, especially when the spring rate on both are 279. But at the very least, the smaller install height is probably most important if they're a biatch to get on the strut.

Was lookin at the front springs available for that model of Accord, they list CC246 for the manual trans car, and CC248 for the auto. Per Moog's specs, the CC246 is 11.00 install height, and 484 load, whereas CC248 is 9.00 install height and 1100 load. So if you're headed out to the junkyard like I'm about to, try and find the springs off an automatic! Edit: On second thought, my friend eBay says I can get a new pair of these CC248 Moog springs for $60 shipped. Edit 2: The auction was through JCWhitney. I checked their main site, and right now the same pair of springs is $49 with free shipping! Can't beat $25 springs! Edit 3: Cheapest I can find the KYB KG9025 shocks is on Amazon for $61 each with free shipping. However, JCWhitney is the second cheapest at $65 each with free shipping. So a pair of new rear shocks and struts is only $180.

Well, you never know til you try. Throw an ad on CL and see if there's any interest. I know if I saw a listing for a used ea82 lift kit, I'd be all over it.

You could safely move the rear wheels back an inch or even two, cause when they're lowered they come so damn far forward, the axles are pointed a bit forward as well. Been debating about how I could extend the trailing arm a bit to center the axle better and give the tire more clearance from the rear doors.

You will probably want to ditch the sway bar. I had to remove mine after my 2" lift simply because it didn't line up anymore with the control arms, and would also rub on my tires if I turned to full lock.

It would be a pain in the rump roast to take an existing 2" strut spacer and do the DIY square tubing lift on top of it. For one reason, you'd then have a whole extra row of bolts holding everything together, which is just another thing to go wrong. Also, remember that you're gonna need to compensate for camber again, so you're not just making straight spacers, you're doing it offset by probably an inch. I would suggest either making or buying proper 4" strut spacers, and selling your 2" spacers. You could probably get some decent money for them if you put them on your local Craigslist and offered to help whomever buys it to install it on their Sooby.

All I read was "i wanted to go to her work and bang her two bosses." I'm curious to see how your project turns out, though. Surprised more people aren't running LPG in old Subarus.

Excellent write-up! Been looking for something that clearly explains everything. I actually scored the rear disc brackets last weekend, but the discs on the donor car were too rusty to use. So now I just need to find some new discs and Honda calipers. Except I want to rig my e-brakes up to be individually operated for traction control purposes.

I second this idea. The scrap place will take anything metal, and you can probably still get at least $100 for the shell. I got $50 for a seized chevy small block, but of course it probably weighs more than your car.

Wow, nice write-up! I have no use for it, but I'm sure there are a handful of folks out there who will love you for it eventually.

It's been a while, any progress?

Pics!

Considering how long the first one lasted, I wouldn't be surprised if the one you're using now lasts longer than the car.

Might as well get the Hitachi, keep the Denso just to say you have the original. But if the Hitachi is easier to get parts for, definitely the best choice in the long run.

It looks like they're all about $100 USD. Why not get the one from Rock Auto?

Jeez, I can't find that anywhere. Would it be very difficult to just switch to the Hitachi distributor?

Well, my crappy dealer would have to order them, and they're like $14 EACH. Can't believe they have ZERO on hand. This town is full of soobies. And the best part is that when I was checking mine just now, and was putting everything back on, I managed to strip the threads on the axle. Sooooo now I get to replace that, having already replaced it last year, lol. Alright, I'll take a pair of the cone washers. I'm assuming you're saying that the dome washers don't come individually, that I'll need to get them with castle nuts, so I'll take a pair of those as well.

Not that I know of, but it would be a great idea. The local autocross is lame as hell, courses are very short. And since there are so man g*****amn Subarus and DSMs around, a rallycross would make much more sense. All we need is a few good dirt fields to borrow. Makes more sense to me to race in dirt, anyway, cause (1) less tire wear, (2) having more power doesn't necessarily help you, so cars with little power but lots of traction have a competitive edge, (3) more venues, (4) racing is MORE fun in the winter, (5) MORE DRIFTING!

Holy crap! That's a pretty nasty bunch of situations. Although when I first read the title of this thread, I thought you'd burned through three ignition modules in one day. Not exactly sure what parts availability is like in your country. Seems completely insane that the dealer and parts stores want over $600 USD for such a part. According to my local parts store website, they want about $110 USD for it. Maybe eBay is your best bet. If this is what you need, it's only about $40 + some international shipping.