Cyfun
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Posts posted by Cyfun
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Going back to my original post,
Re: offset rear crossmember lift blocks,
To move the wheel center to the rear, and move the tire away from the rear door, to not have to cut as much, or not at all?
How much can the axles take? This is without extending the driveline, just an inch or two back, if the blocks are going in anyway then why not? Also the mount for the diff to the cross member modifyed to match
You could safely move the rear wheels back an inch or even two, cause when they're lowered they come so damn far forward, the axles are pointed a bit forward as well. Been debating about how I could extend the trailing arm a bit to center the axle better and give the tire more clearance from the rear doors.
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You will probably want to ditch the sway bar. I had to remove mine after my 2" lift simply because it didn't line up anymore with the control arms, and would also rub on my tires if I turned to full lock.
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It would be a pain in the rump roast to take an existing 2" strut spacer and do the DIY square tubing lift on top of it. For one reason, you'd then have a whole extra row of bolts holding everything together, which is just another thing to go wrong. Also, remember that you're gonna need to compensate for camber again, so you're not just making straight spacers, you're doing it offset by probably an inch.
I would suggest either making or buying proper 4" strut spacers, and selling your 2" spacers. You could probably get some decent money for them if you put them on your local Craigslist and offered to help whomever buys it to install it on their Sooby.
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All I read was "i wanted to go to her work and bang her two bosses."
I'm curious to see how your project turns out, though. Surprised more people aren't running LPG in old Subarus.
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Excellent write-up! Been looking for something that clearly explains everything. I actually scored the rear disc brackets last weekend, but the discs on the donor car were too rusty to use. So now I just need to find some new discs and Honda calipers.
Except I want to rig my e-brakes up to be individually operated for traction control purposes.
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dude u know u can part it out and the rest of the car u can chop it up and put it in the back of your truck and scrap it:D but through away all non metal stuff thats left and u will get more money for it because its ready to be melted down
I second this idea. The scrap place will take anything metal, and you can probably still get at least $100 for the shell. I got $50 for a seized chevy small block, but of course it probably weighs more than your car.
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Easy (pictured) Guide to Test an Ignition Module...
~► Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134135
Kind Regards.
Wow, nice write-up! I have no use for it, but I'm sure there are a handful of folks out there who will love you for it eventually.
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It's been a while, any progress?
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thanks to subruise i have instaled the spoiler and grill from a 92 nissan maxima on my 91 lego and to top it off i wired in the brake light on it and am now running dual center lights. i guess u could call it a legama:clap:
Pics!
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Considering how long the first one lasted, I wouldn't be surprised if the one you're using now lasts longer than the car.
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Might as well get the Hitachi, keep the Denso just to say you have the original. But if the Hitachi is easier to get parts for, definitely the best choice in the long run.
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It looks like they're all about $100 USD. Why not get the one from Rock Auto?
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Jeez, I can't find that anywhere. Would it be very difficult to just switch to the Hitachi distributor?
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How many do you want I will put them on Ebay. Otherwise just order from me if you wish.
The cone is 623024020 and the washer between it and the castle nut is 623204080. 623024020 is $8.16 and the other is $8.88. I can ship used ones that are good as well. $2/ea
Well, my crappy dealer would have to order them, and they're like $14 EACH. Can't believe they have ZERO on hand. This town is full of soobies. And the best part is that when I was checking mine just now, and was putting everything back on, I managed to strip the threads on the axle. Sooooo now I get to replace that, having already replaced it last year, lol.
Alright, I'll take a pair of the cone washers. I'm assuming you're saying that the dome washers don't come individually, that I'll need to get them with castle nuts, so I'll take a pair of those as well.
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Not that I know of, but it would be a great idea. The local autocross is lame as hell, courses are very short. And since there are so man g*****amn Subarus and DSMs around, a rallycross would make much more sense. All we need is a few good dirt fields to borrow.
Makes more sense to me to race in dirt, anyway, cause (1) less tire wear, (2) having more power doesn't necessarily help you, so cars with little power but lots of traction have a competitive edge, (3) more venues, (4) racing is MORE fun in the winter, (5) MORE DRIFTING!
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Holy crap! That's a pretty nasty bunch of situations. Although when I first read the title of this thread, I thought you'd burned through three ignition modules in one day.
Not exactly sure what parts availability is like in your country. Seems completely insane that the dealer and parts stores want over $600 USD for such a part. According to my local parts store website, they want about $110 USD for it. Maybe eBay is your best bet.
If this is what you need, it's only about $40 + some international shipping.
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Ah okay, I'm blind. Is that the dome washer or cone washer tho? Its surprising noone on ebay sells these...
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Funny this thread was just revived, as I'm probably in the same boat and have some or all of my damn washers on backwards, and my cone washers are probably worn out.
So the dealer is the only place that carries them? Don't suppose anyone has a part number for this?
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What rotors should I use with the nissan calipers? I have 5 lug xt6 hubs.
If you have 5 lug hubs, can't you use legacy rotors?
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Thanks for the info, that makes sense. If it were really that uncentered, my axles would probably not be happy. Although I suspect it to be more of a twisting motion than simply being off center. The drivers side does seem like it is maybe half an inch lower, which would definitely bring that side closer. And those damn frame pieces that angle inwards don't help.
Ill be installing a 3" body lift soon, and when I do that ill see if I can nudge the engine a bit over. And I need to find some sort of wedge to put in the motor mounts. Thinking plastic would be a good idea as it'd be cheap.
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Holy butts, that's some nice overbuilt bracing you've got goin on. Are you going to be running any reinforcements down the length of the vehicle?
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No, no...that's just how the boxer engines sit in general. Mine is an EA82. Even with small hands I curse my way through getting the driver side valve cover on and off. Pretty sure Subaru conspired to do it on purpose...no, I'm kidding. It's just the way it is. Give a kid a candy bar to help you with it
.Really? You'd think if the engine were centered, it would have equal clearance from the valve covers to the frame on each side. Looking at my engine mounts, it does look like the engine is shifted a tad to the driver's side. I wonder if they originally were somewhat centered, but years of use and crappy motor mounts caused them to wiggle over a tad.
Doesn't help that my EJ22 was installed onto the stock motor mounts without using wedge shims, and they don't look happy. I hooked a ratchet tie-down strap to my alternator mount, ran it over my fender and hooked it to a hole in my wheel, then cranked it down to lift and pull the engine over. Gave me just enough room to get the VC off and on, and to fit the socket on the rear-most bolt.
I forgot to clean off all the oil that spilled onto my exhaust tho, so today's drive to work was particularly smokey. Off to the car wash on my lunch break!
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Good work on researching your applicable laws. They hate that!
Have you asked them about a rental car though? Pretty sure the law in all states requires you to receive a comparable rental car until they cut you a check, and you are entitled to compensation for loss of use until they do give you a car. Helps motivate them to not drag their feet.
You might also want to get in touch with the state insurance commissioner's office. They specifically deal with insurance companies giving people the run-around. If you tell them your situation, they can tell you what your legal rights are. If the insurance company then refuses to abide by them, you can then file a complaint with the insurance commissioner and they will fight for you. In many states, if it comes down to arbitration and the insurance company loses, they have to award you TWICE what they owe you.
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Hah true. So when can we see some videos of it moving?
1. converting a 2" lift to 4" whats your thoughts? 2. making body spacer blocks..
in Off Road
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Well, you never know til you try. Throw an ad on CL and see if there's any interest. I know if I saw a listing for a used ea82 lift kit, I'd be all over it.