Cyfun

Ya, 4300k is pretty warm compared to the majority of HIDs on the road. I think pure white is closer to 5000k. 1982gl4: Mind taking a pic when they're warm? I'm very interested in doing the same mod to my GLW.

True. If you're going to the trouble to replace the rack, worth it to upgrade. How much did you get the WRX rack for?

Very nice! Doesn't look too difficult to carve out that hole a bit. So what kind of benefits are you expecting with the WRX rack? Quicker turn ratio?

Better yet, direct link to all their files!

Not bad, but it doesn't say how much force it can put out. I'll probably rather go with one of those solenoid kits eBay as they're specifically designed for pulling hard on release latches. Plus, the actuator is $12.50 after shipping, and the eBay kit is only $10 more and comes with wiring, a button, a fuse holder, and the cabling and crimpers and a mounting bracket.

Before you replace the pump, you should do a proper rewiring of it. Run a fused wire of about 14 gauge from the battery to the pump and hook up a relay. Odds are you're getting some good voltage drop on the stock wiring.

Bending the arm towards the glass helps a bit. But the main culprit is the spring. If you can get the spring out with some needle nose pliers, you can bend it a bit so it clamps harder. Sometimes it's a pain and i've shot many a spring across my front yard trying to get it back on the wiper arm, but it does help significantly.

You'll want to use your stock CV axles and driveshaft. If you're switching to the Legacy transmission, might need to have the driveshaft shortened slightly, but I'm not completely positive. You could also keep the stock transmission and get an adapter plate. But you'd be stuck with the weaker ea82 clutch.

Maybe put some washers under the bracket to pull it back a little bit?

What does the mechanism look like behind the panel? I've never had it off to look. You might be able to attach a lever to something, but it would probably be tricky to get it to attach to the small components. Best bet would likely be to tie a piece of cable or coat hanger wire to the mechanism somewhere, and have it stick through a hole in the door, with a loop or T handle on the end that you pull. Or there might even be a place where you could just cut a hole in the panel and actuate it by sticking your finger in. That would be a place to start, and would be easiest to access if you're lying in your trunk area. An electronic option would be a neat next step to take cause then you could have it rigged to buttons on the dash and in the trunk, as well as tie it in to a keyless entry system. In fact, i'm sure someone sells some universal trunk/door release kits with an actuator, some wire, fuses and switches. here is what I found on eBay for $22

Check all your grounds. This happens to me when it gets really cold out. My old battery terminals aren't claming the poles very tight even thought they're wrenched all the way down. I've replaced my positive, but still need to do my negative.

Electronic Stability Control? Edit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29237

Definitely sounds like CV grease then, probably that inner boot. Jack the car up so the CV is at a steep angle, and rotate it, looking carefully for a crack. Or it could be coming out of the end if it's missing a band.

That sucks about the clearance issue. You might try making a small heat shield and putting a bit of heat wrap there, see how it holds up.

It's just the carrier, isn't it? Shouldn't matter.

It's done, you say? I didn't think these projects ever end.

I'll have to try that. I've heard Fuelly is good, especially cause it gives you an image to use in your forum signatures that shows your mileage. However it doesn't have an app for any device, just a mobile site, which kinda kills it for me.

CV boot is very likely. You should be able to tell by what's been slung onto the firewall and exhaust. Grease will be pretty obvious if you run your finger over it. However, it could also be oil. A few weeks ago was riding with a friend in his Outback, smelled something burning. Peeked under, saw smoke comin off the cat right behind the CV. Figured it was a torn boot, but didn't see a tear. Then noticed that there was a bunch of motor oil pooled on top of the engine. Turns out he'd been adding some oil earlier and the wind had blown a bunch onto the engine. So it's possible that there's an oil leak higher up, but it's probably the CV.

Nice lookin car, that really sucks. Lucky it's pretty uncommon, especially in that color and condition, hopefully it will turn up somewhere.

Good to know. Sad it's so 'spensive. It'd be cheaper to just weld the diff and deal with some tire wear. And isn't that OBX Torsen carrier only like $400?

Could always order up a JDM imported EJ22. Last I checked, ForeignEngines had one for about $800 shipped with approx 40k miles, and comes with a 1 year warranty.

Have you tried just searching the USMB Classifieds for "Seattle"? Looks like there's a few, but they come and go. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1443328

Something 0w or 5w is probably where to start. You should probably research that a bit. As far as break-in driving style goes, it varies from engine to engine, but I keep hearing that the first half hour is the most important. As soon as you get it running, you wanna get on a road where you can do some highway speeds. Get into 3rd gear, floor it to about 4500rpm, then completely let off throttle and coast down to about 2000rpm. Repeat that for about 20 minutes. I don't remember precisely what it does, something about being under hard positive and negative loads smoothing out the hone marks in the cylinders and the sharp edges on the piston rings before one wears further than the other. And after you've done that, you don't necessarily need to be easy on it for a few hundred or thousand miles. But you should change your oil after I think 200 miles, aka a tank of gas. After that, it's about as broken in as it's going to get.

No special filter needed, but it's important to get a good one. I wouldn't wish a Fram filter on my worst enemy. They seal the ends of the filter with cardboard, which ends up in chunks in your engine and then lets oil go by unfiltered. When I first got my EJ22 GLW, I went to do the initial oil change, and about flipped ************ when I saw a Fram on there. When I drained the oil there were little fibery chunks in it. I decided rather than putting in my good oil right away, to put in some cheap oil and cheap filter, drive it for a week, and then change it again. Glad I did, cause there was still more stuff in there. Wix is the way to go for all filters. Microgard got bought by Fram so I don't trust them anymore. Mobil1 makes very nice filters but they're a bit pricey. Incidentally, even with conventional oil, you can typically go well beyond 3000 miles between changes. The quick lube companies try to push that number on you to increase business, but in reality you can safely go 4000 to 5000 miles. Of course you should still use common sense and keep an eye on your oil. If it seems to be getting pretty dirty, might as well change it no matter what the mileage, especially if you drive pretty hard (city stop-and-go, offroad, dusty climates. And as a rule of thumb, changing it just before winter is the best time cause the cold is the harshest on your engine and that's when it most needs good oil, plus dirty oil can be more viscous and make the car harder to start.

Yeah, it does seem expensive at first, but remember that you can go two to three times as far between changes, and that's also saving you money on filters. Plus, spending an extra ten or twenty bucks a year is a drop in the bucket compared to the hundreds or thousands you save by having a well maintained engine. That's the problem with preventative maintenance: you never know if you prevented any problems, but you sure as hell know if you failed to!