Cyfun

Considering the cost of shipping tires, you'd probably be better off getting some rims that will fit your lug setup and buying tires locally, new or used. I got mine from Walmart for $79 a tire. And bear in mind that if you have the stock 4-lug pattern, you'll have to drill out some steel rims to fit that, or convert your hubs to 6-lug.

Lol I hear ya. Even with the extra 6 inches of ground clearance, my door hit the ground when I opened it. Gotta love having a 4x4 with a crazy low center of gravity.

4 inch is a good choice. You can get some 28" tires in there easily. I'm rocking 235/75R15's as they're a standard pickup size and cheap. Stock motor, I take it?

So why put a 100amp fuse on a 110amp alternator? Wouldn't you want a 110amp fuse at minimum?

Very nice! Did you paint the original reflectors black? Here's what I did to my soobie today: parked like a BOSS. :cool:

The negative for the highbeam is probably grounding out somewhere. The headlights actually receive constant positive power, and the negative is what's switched. Completely backwards from the norm.

Might have someone get in the car and press on the pedal while you look under the hood at the clutch fork linkage. That'll tell ya if the hydraulic system is your problem or not. Otherwise I'd say your clutch is just going out. Sometimes a piece will break off and get stuck, causing it to still work but either stick or smoke.

The old bolts were too long. With the new idlers, the bolt head surface is deeper into the hole. Coulda just used a few washers but that would have probably made things weaker, or at least more likely for the bolt to come loose. I remember reading something about this issue in other posts, but wasn't counting on it being such an odd bolt to find. The tensioner pulley came with a new bolt, they should have thrown in bolts for the idlers, especially when I'm spending $200 on a supposedly comprehensive kit. The kit really should have come with a new hydraulic tensioner adjuster, too, cause I don't want to have to tear into this again. New water pump and gasket, came with the kit. Didn't put any RTV on the gasket as there was none on the old one. Not seeing any leaks. I'll try to get a video of it, just sounds like a loud whirring. Could be the belt or an idler I suppose.

Nevermind, dealer had one for $50, had to go there anyway for a thermostat. Kit came yesterday, had to run around town to find new bolts for the idlers. Didn't think I could use normal hex bolts cause it didn't look like my socket would fit in the hole, but nobody had M10x1.25 flange bolts, so i got normal bolts and luckily my 17mm socket barely fit. Got everything replaced, belt on and aligned. Hand rotated it and markes lined up. Got radiator back in and coolant, went for a drive, ran like crap. Tore it apart again today and the crank was 1 tooth off. Corrected it and now it runs great. One concern, tho, the new water pump is pretty noisy. I'm assuming its the water pump. Is this a common issue?

Looking for a replacement center timing cover for a phase 1 EJ22 SOHC if anyone has one. Dealer wants $56. Not bad, but I'm cheap.

The scrap yards can probably cut stuff for ya for a few bucks. As far as drilling and welding go, prolly on your own. Best bet is to have a friend with machine shop or exhaust shop access or who has the equipment at home.

I wish the enclosed reflected LED setups weren't so crazy expensive. The bulbs themselves cost very little, and since they don't have to worry about incandescent bulbs putting out crazy heat, they can engineer the enclosures much more easily and tightly. I'm tempted to just butcher some existing plastic reflectors out of flashlights or car headlights and wire in 5mm LEDs or some CREE LEDS. Would cost me a fraction of what these folks want.

Might not hurt to check the battery terminal connections and grounds. I always have electrical issues when the temperature drops and everything thermally contracts. Normally, if the battery terminals were corroded or werent making good contact to the connectors, the car would still run off the alternator. But if there were a problem just upstream from that, killing or weakening the flow, that could cause it to stall. Could also be fuel pump wiring, too. I once had a loose connector for a fuel pump fuse, would get worse in the winter. Although the other folks are probably right about the dizzy and ignition system. Whether the tach moves or not is the key.

Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on hoses, keep an eye out for a naturally aspirated ea82 motor or prepare for an EJ22 swap. You could probably find an ea82 motor for $200. Or if you've got the cash, WRX swap. That Foreign Engines JDM importer in Washington state has STI engine swap setups with engine, trans, wiring harness and ECU for about $3000 shipped.

The pump harness? You mean right at the pump under the trunk? Have you tested for pressure under the hood? Dunno if these cars have a pressure relief valve, but if not, unhook a fuel line and see what happens. Can also always try running jumper wires directly to fuel pump.

The lower gearing would give you better acceleration. Wouldn't gear you low enough to decrease top speed, though. And I doubt you spend much time at 100mph in that.

Grats! Now we need some vids of driving action!

Great idea in theory, but it seems like the layers of glass would scratch the hell out of each other. Easier to just put on a pair of sunglasses. :cool:

Mid 80s Accord calipers supposedly work, but they're like $80 each. Probably better off getting 200sx or 240sx calipers and making a custom bracket that allows for better clearance of the ebrake mechanism.

I know, arrows indicate TCD. These pics were to show how the cams lined up in relation to the crank. I have some earlier pics of the hash marks being off.

Right on, I may go that route. Apparently Gates actually makes PCI's products, they're just a slightly cheaper line. TheImportExperts has a complete timing overhaul kit for about $200. Looks like a great deal, cept I just replaced my accessory belts.

Their PCI kits on eBay are about $100 shipped. Mizumo Auto on Ebay has the same kits for about $93.50 shipped. Neither include a waterpump. The Gates kit without waterpump is $130 shipped at Amazon, and with waterpump $160 shipped at Amazon. Is Gates worth the few extra bucks? Supposedly they make the parts for OEMs.

I haven't pulled the timing gears, but I'll check now that you mention it. Crank looks fine, at least. Not bad, not great. Fairly dry, at least: Idler by the water pump: Crank at TDC: Driver's side timing gear, almost looks like it's counter-clockwise 1 tooth: Passenger side timing gear, sorry for the blurry pic, but you can see the arrow at 10 oclock:

Previous owner installed the engine. No idea if or when the belt was done before. Got the cover off. Looks like the crank pulley wore a big gouge into it, probably let in all sorts of good ************ when I was chasing puddles. The toothed idler by the water pump has literally lost its marbles. Doesn't look like the tensioner is leaking. Tension doesn't seem bad, but if stuff is seizing on me, that could explain it all. Looks like if the crank is at TDC, the drivers side lines up, but the passenger side is late. Makes sense.