Cyfun

Right on. I believe it's out of a 93 Leg. I have to pull the crank pulley to get through the cover, don't I? Woot, impact wrench time! Shopping for a new belt kit right now. Any recommendations? Considering replacing the water pump while I'm in there. Heh, Napa has a kit for $740. Must be made of gold and copper. Oreilly has one for about $180. But I just found Amazon has a nice Gates kit including water pump for about $160. These timing belts don't seem that difficult to replace, though. Would you guys recommend just replacing what's broken rather than going to town?

I looked at the CPS sensor and it seemed fine, so I pulled my radiator to get a better look at the timing gears. They look like they're a few teeth off! Each pulley has a notch and an arrow, and if I line the passenger side up vertically, the driver's side is noticably ahead clockwise. By those diagrams, the marks should always be clocked the same, right? How the hell could I have skipped ahead without breaking the belt? Edit: Pics

Found it. Thanks!

I have the covers off both timing gears. Are there marks on there somewhere? Its so close to the radiator, hard to see.

So last week my EJ22 swapped GL wagon started running really poorly. Had almost no power, was shaking violently, felt like it was missing on at least one cylinder. It still drove so I continued on, but later it started making this high pitch squealing noise. Definitely sounded like metal, and possibly rotational cause it was fairly continuous. So I had my dad drag me home, haven't had time to mess with it til now. Won't start at all at this point, doesn't seem to want to fire. The two drivers' side spark plugs look fine, but the passenger side ones are pretty black. Plugs and wires are only a year old and look fine, and the coil is definitely dishing out spark. Seems to be getting fuel. Thought it might be a head gasket, but I'm not seeing any oil in coolant or vice versa. Oil was last changed about a month ago. I did a leakdown test, and the front passenger cyl was at like 60%, the back pass was at like 40%, but the drivers side ones were also at like 50%. I might have not done it right, cause it's hard to see TDC on the drivers' side cylinders. I tried doing just a compression test but my ************ty Harbor Break tester wouldn't get very tight and just said 30psi for each cylinder. When it did run but was misfiring, it seemed louder than usual, and I got some occasional backfiring, so I was originally thinking exhaust valves. Engine only has about 160k miles. Seems odd that both passenger side cylinders are completely black. Maybe the passenger side timing gear skipped a tooth? Timing belt and gears look fine. The engine is out of a '93 Legacy so it's OBD-I. I'll try and dig the ECU out of the dash so I can pull some codes. Tempted to just find a used engine or a wrecked Legacy or order up a JDM EJ22 for $800 cause I don't have the time to wongleflute around with this. Anyone have any brilliant ideas, or perhaps an engine?

2.5" is the way to go. If you wanna be a lil loud, try for a glasspack, otherwise a good cheapo Thrush turbo muffler has a good rumble.

Don't go with a turbo exhaust unless you have a turbo. Naturally aspirated cars actually need a bit of back-pressure. Most folks I know with an EA81, EA82, or EJ22 don't go larger than 2.5" exhaust. You could probably find an exhaust shop that would make you a basic 2.5" catback system with a glass pack or cheapo Thrush muffler for a reasonable cost. Or you could try and replace the cat with a cheap glass pack, but then risk having exhaust getting into your car. Even with no leaks, I get a bit in my car just cause I have the shift boot off.

That makes sense. Glad to hear it's coming along. Why a Turbo 400 though? Would have thought you'd want a good stick shift, or at least to stick with the original trans for that engine.

Excellent idea! Might have to get creative with any bent suspension components, but at least you'd have your car drivable again!

Yeah, for $100 might as well keep it. Can always part it out for more than that.

OIC, so you hafta get the glass off first, but then it just fits right in there. Pretty nifty.

Ah I see. For some reason I thought the eBay kit included the whole rectangular reflective piece, but that must be the original reflector from the GL headlight. How did you cut out the hole to fit that projector through?

Valid concerns about supporting that engine, however didn't the original thread say that he had to custom fab a K-member? One would imagine that he'd build it heavily reinforced. Also, I doubt the V12 really weighs as much as you'd think.

Sorry to dig up a slightly old thread, but could you post a part number or something for that kit? Badly needing a headlight upgrade here. Was considering doing a DL quad headlight swap but cant find a donor car.

I really like that idea of just making an extension on the existing bracket. Then you could drill a couple holes in it to make it adjustable. Someone could make a lil cash if they made these into kits. There might be an easy way to bend tabs onto it so you wouldn't need an extra bolt to keep it from rotating. Perhaps if it were mounted on the inside of those brackets rather than the outside.

Did you get a rental car out of them? If not, they owe you for lack-of-use until they actually write you a check for your settlement. Varies from state to state, but they often have to give you a comparable rental, which means finding an AWD rental car. To answer your question, though, the curb weight is probably about 2000lbs. If I were you, though, I'd strip off the valuable parts before scrapping it.

Looks like the front right and rear left have a ton of camber, and the other two don't. You probably want around 1 degree of negative camber at each front tire, and they could probably use more caster, too. And the toe-out in the back would be worth a look. On my car with the EJ22 swap, when I accelerate, the front lifts really hard and causes the front tires to get a ton of positive camber, making them ride on the outer edges and get almost no traction, so I tend to burn out a lot. I ended up cutting bigger bolt holes in the strut tower, so at rest it probably has a couple degrees of camber and caster. Had to play with it a bit so it would drive straight, but it does help.

It would work, but I wouldn't use it. On an ea82 you'd wanna angle the mounts inward to keep your camber angles. I'd just stick with metal. It's not that expensive. Dunno about everywhere else, but the scrap metal yard here has a good selection for 25 cents a pound. I was able to get enough to build a full 4" lift for under $10.

I hate to say it, but as the axles are pretty easy to swap in and out, I just use the cheapo axles from O'Reilly's cause they have a lifetime warranty. I just keep the receipt in the glovebox, and once or twice a year when I start smelling grease on my catalytic converter cause a boot tore, I just return it for a new one. Luckily this is just an around-town and offroad car. If I did much highway driving I wouldn't mess around with cheap axles.

Lol yup! I've been eyeing that PCV horn setup lately. Would work well with a compressor conversion.

Thought about it, but that would take up more space, and probably cost more, whereas if your car already has AC that's likely already not working, might as well use it, right? Plus, A/C compressors can put out pretty good pressure and volume. I've read that most folks can fill a big tire in about 60 seconds, and can even run air tools. And since an AC compressor is designed to run refrigerant at about 300psi, as long as you keep it lubricated, it will probably last a while. Not to mention a helluva lot quieter.

The EJ22 compressor does look a lot like those Sandens. Perhaps they're built similarly, or at least interchangable. Sounds like some '80s Subarus did come with some sort of Sanden compressor, though. http://www.polarbearinc.com/Subru41.htm

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm working on this project as well. My 86 GLW came with an EJ22 swapped in, and the AC was disconnected but the PO did give me the EJ22 compressor. Gonna grab an oiler and filter setup from harbor freight, and am gonna try to use the giant 4x6" tube I installed for a rear bumper as an air tank. Looks like the hardest part is simply converting the plumbing from the compressor to some usable pipe threads. Another silly idea I just had was to attach the input of the compressor to my engine's PCV system. It'd kind of work as a crankcase evac system, and my blowby would be captured by the oil seperator downstream from the compressor. I've been digging around on the Intarwebs, and nobody has put together a properly comprehensive guide to doing this, so once I've got the parts I'll see if I can do a little writeup.

Exactly. By "stock suspension" I think we mean really mean the CVs, and to some extent the control arms. If you dropped the front and rear control arms and diff, you could get quite a lot of swing out of the CVs and control arms. The trick would be finding a front strut. Probably have to make it extend out of the hood a bit, or a massive amount of body lifting.