Cyfun

Ya, I saw your posts on it, I jus don't have any 200 or 240sx's locally. And I'd like to find somethin I can affix an ebrake to. Also, your thread doesn't really narrow down which years of cars to use, or how brake cables could be attached. Actually, there is a 200sx but its like a 97 and is fwd, and I assume that won't work. I'm mainly looking for answers on rear parking brake setups, and not just rear disc. I mean, one can probably make a lot of calipers fit by simply making a custom bracket, just a matter of sourcing the right caliper. And one that preferrably doesn't cost a pretty penny. Was eying some of those Honda ones and they were arouns $80 EACH.

The hub? Drilling the rims to 4-lug is doable, but I always have a helluva time getting the holes centered properly. Converting your hubs to 6-lug is actually easier, and would be nice in the long run cause then you can mount up any 6-lug rim you want, but you won't be able to go back to 4-lug.

Lol yes, but my local junkyards are slim pickins. I did finally find a GL-10, but everything is really really rusted, and they want like $40 just for the pair of caliper brackets! And that's if I pull them myself, which would mean probably a couple hours of crawling around in the mud under that car. My main concern, though, is the ease of attaching rear e-brake cables. Perhaps the Honda calipers are better in that respect. Also, if I were to fab my own caliper brackets, I could redesign it so that the caliper is clocked differently. So can you guys tell me at least if the caliper brackets are just flat pieces of metal or if they're bent in any way? If they're pretty much flat, I'd just need to know how thick they are, and it would be easy to cut some out and position them however I like.

Indeed. I argue with them that why is my premium based off my car being in retail condition, but when there's a claim, they dispute the value of my car? If my car isn't worth as much, then shouldn't my premiums be less?

I've been pouring over all the old threads on swapping calipers from Nissan 240 and 200sx's and whatnot, but nothing really gives me a clear idea of what will and won't work. From what I've been able to gather, rear calipers from 240sx's and 200sx's will bolt to the EA82 rear disc caliper brackets, however the angles at which the rear parking brake arm come out either face the wrong way or will rub on the trailing arm. I did just stumble across an Austrailian thread that claims 1980's Honda Accord rear calipers will bolt right up (apparently Soob and Honda used the same brake suppliers back then) and the parking brake is easier to hook up. I am wondering if anyone here has tried this Honda method. Also, I'm having a hard time tracking down some EA82 rear disc caliper brackets. Was curious if they are anything special or if I could fabricate some. Do they have any bends or are they flat? Either way, could somebody possibly trace one onto some paper with some measurements so I could try and replicate one? If it turns out to not be too difficult, would be happy to make and sell them. Altho if it were that easy, you'd think someone like SJR would have already done it.

26 inch? The stock tires are closer to 23 inch. 26 inch is about all you can fit without a lift and with minor cutting. Dj729199: You'll want to find a drill bit size 35/64" for drilling your stud holes. I actually found one at Carquest for $14, which is pretty cheap. And I would recommend doing your lift BEFORE installing tires, or else you risk chewing the crap out of them from rubbing like I did. A 2 inch lift is a good place to start cause you don't need to lift the body, and 26 or 27 inch tires are a good gearing for the stock motor.

Won't you have to leave the axle stubs in, though?

The fronts are easy. On the strut, just below the spring, there are two nuts. Wrench them around a few turns, keeping track to make them even. On the back, they can be tricky cause you're dealing with rust and the spring pressure. On the bottom of the shock is a collar with notches that will rotate if you can relieve some of the spring pressure on it. Might wanna squirt some penetrating oil around it first. I never did get mine freed up. Might have to completely remove the top nut from the damn thing to get the pressure off the spring. Tried using some coil spring compressors, but these springs are too small to grab on to properly. Why do you wanna lower the front and raise the back? Is it sagging that much? Most EA82s are much lower in front than back as it is.

A snatch strap is what you want. They're made of nylon webbing that's designed to stretch, so if you're on a low traction surface, you can build up a little speed and more gently pull folks out with your momentum. If you've ever watched Top Gear's race to the north pole, you'll know what I'm talking about, cept their was a proper giant bungee cord. I keep a snatch strap attached to my tow hooks and coiled up in my trunk all-year round, cause you never know when you'll need it. Most folks who get stuck in the winter don't need much. They usually are just stuck on a small patch of ice or in a rut in the middle of the street. Often times it would be far more dangerous to leave them there blocking traffic and potentially causing an accident. Having said that, there are also a lot of overconfident *********************es who drive big turbo diesel trucks and SUVs who think that just cause they're 4-wheel drive means they're invincible, and it makes it all the more satisfying to pull a big badass truck out of a ditch with my rusty little GL wagon. Of course I'm in Montana so I'm not nearly as worried about sue-happy pricks.

Exactly, all you get is less travel. And the wording is confusing. The only way this would make sense is to either just throw on the adjustable coilovers and only lift it 2" with those, or for 4" treat it as a normal lift with body blocks and strut brackets, but then have adjustable coilovers. The main point is that if you're going past 2" you must lift body and diff.

Yeah, but you can only do a 2" lift without lifting body and diff, or else you risk grenading your CVs. The problem with doing a spring adjustment to gain height instead of blocking the struts is that your susp becomes very stiff and you lose travel. And that would also create articulation issues in a car with already bad articulation However, since most ea82s had adjustable front springs, you could just rig up something similar in the back.

Ah. Hm. Again, depends on if you want to run bigger tires. Dunno if yours still has it, but my '87 GLW has a couple of bolts under the front spring that let me adjust it up and down a bit. But sounds like you want an airbag setup. Or... Just keep two sets of tires. One set that barely fits in your fenders, and then a set of stock 175/70r13's. So what your describing is to perform a typical lift with strut and body blocks, but to then attach adjustable coilovers so that you could lower it back down easier. Could work, however you'd be losing an assload of suspension travel. And it'd depend on if you want to run bigger tires or not.

Are you trying to gain more ground clearance or more suspension travel? You should calculate how much of a lift you want by what size tires you want to run. More often, one does a lift to create clearance in the fenders for taller tires and not just to lift the body higher.

What are you trying to do? Why not do a 6-lug conversion/

With a stock 1.8 motor, you would probably gear it too tall with those tires unless you swapped in 4.11 or 4.44 gears. 28 inch tires, something like a 235/75r15 is about as tall as you'd want to go. Any taller and you'd wanna look into an EJ swap first.

The one for the EJ. Main problem stateside is that your typical swap is to put an EJ motor on the EA fwd hi/4wd hi/4wd lo transmission, and EA clutches don't hold up to the power of an EJ.

There are some on ebay for around $50. And if it doesn't fix the problem, throw it back on eBay.

EJ alternator on an EA motor? Don't think so. But I think you can find Nissan Altima alternators that can be made to go on to an EA motor if you're just wanting more amps.

Interesting. I ask because I just threw on some 235/75r15 Wrangler Radials on my wagon which has a 2" lift, and the fronts rub really bad against the firewall part of the fender well when I turn near lock. Was gonna build some lift blocks and raise it another inch or two, but I suppose I could try hammering the bejesus out of it. And extending the radius rods forward would probably help push the tires forward, too. Anyways, to get back on topic, with such tall tires, an EJ22 or Frankenmotor swap is a great way to go. But if you plan on doing proper offroading, you may just want to go with a dual-range transmission so that you can crawl somewhat. Even with the lowrange, the tall tires gear ya a bit too high, so trying to offroad without lowrange at all would be a super ***************. Some 4.44 gears would help if you were running the Legacy trans, but not a whole lot. Hey Randy, what gears are you running?

Jeez, musta been a big hammer. Did you extend your radius rods too?

holy poop, how did you fit those tires in the fenders with just a 2" lift?

Steal it, swap VINs!

Well, find someone with a Tracker that'll let you take a few measurements, or just grab the parts from a junkyard and see how they fit up.

Do you want to keep your original trans or use the EJ one? Most folks prefer to use an old dual-range trans.

How hard are those transmissions to find in Aussieland? Perhaps you could get into the business of salvaging and shipping them stateside.