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Posts posted by Cyfun
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Ah. Hm. Again, depends on if you want to run bigger tires. Dunno if yours still has it, but my '87 GLW has a couple of bolts under the front spring that let me adjust it up and down a bit. But sounds like you want an airbag setup.
Or... Just keep two sets of tires. One set that barely fits in your fenders, and then a set of stock 175/70r13's.
So what your describing is to perform a typical lift with strut and body blocks, but to then attach adjustable coilovers so that you could lower it back down easier. Could work, however you'd be losing an assload of suspension travel. And it'd depend on if you want to run bigger tires or not.
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Are you trying to gain more ground clearance or more suspension travel?
You should calculate how much of a lift you want by what size tires you want to run. More often, one does a lift to create clearance in the fenders for taller tires and not just to lift the body higher.
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What are you trying to do? Why not do a 6-lug conversion/
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With a stock 1.8 motor, you would probably gear it too tall with those tires unless you swapped in 4.11 or 4.44 gears. 28 inch tires, something like a 235/75r15 is about as tall as you'd want to go. Any taller and you'd wanna look into an EJ swap first.
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The one for the EJ. Main problem stateside is that your typical swap is to put an EJ motor on the EA fwd hi/4wd hi/4wd lo transmission, and EA clutches don't hold up to the power of an EJ.
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There are some on ebay for around $50. And if it doesn't fix the problem, throw it back on eBay.
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EJ alternator on an EA motor? Don't think so. But I think you can find Nissan Altima alternators that can be made to go on to an EA motor if you're just wanting more amps.
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Interesting. I ask because I just threw on some 235/75r15 Wrangler Radials on my wagon which has a 2" lift, and the fronts rub really bad against the firewall part of the fender well when I turn near lock.
Was gonna build some lift blocks and raise it another inch or two, but I suppose I could try hammering the bejesus out of it. And extending the radius rods forward would probably help push the tires forward, too.
Anyways, to get back on topic, with such tall tires, an EJ22 or Frankenmotor swap is a great way to go. But if you plan on doing proper offroading, you may just want to go with a dual-range transmission so that you can crawl somewhat. Even with the lowrange, the tall tires gear ya a bit too high, so trying to offroad without lowrange at all would be a super ***************. Some 4.44 gears would help if you were running the Legacy trans, but not a whole lot.
Hey Randy, what gears are you running?
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Jeez, musta been a big hammer. Did you extend your radius rods too?
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Just read the pdf on this. Tons of great info. Every one of my queations have been answered
holy poop, how did you fit those tires in the fenders with just a 2" lift?
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Steal it, swap VINs!
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Well, find someone with a Tracker that'll let you take a few measurements, or just grab the parts from a junkyard and see how they fit up.
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Do you want to keep your original trans or use the EJ one? Most folks prefer to use an old dual-range trans.
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How hard are those transmissions to find in Aussieland? Perhaps you could get into the business of salvaging and shipping them stateside.
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You can modify the factory radio to have an Aux input. It's just a matter of splicing into the dongle going from the tape player to the receiver. The three inner wires are for audio, and the outer two are for a switch to toggle the signal on and off. There's a thread here somewhere on it.
What I ended up doing since my tape deck died anyway was to cut off the dongle at the tape deck, solder on an old 1/8" headphone cable and a toggle switch. Then I plug it in to my cellphone or MP3 player. Quality is actually quite good cause it's designed to amplify the weak signal coming from the tape player.
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I got a big 500-pack of 5mm white LEDs off of eBay a few months ago for $20 for an LED tail light conversion project. You can get them in smaller quantities for a bit less, but I figured I might as well stock up for $20.
And I just did some maths, and for two 3.2v white LEDs to run with an 8v current, you only need a 100ohm resistor, which I happen to have like 200 of. Woot!
As for the heater control lights, those are likely 12v, which is fine because I purchased 100ohm resistors so I could wire 4 white LEDs in series to a 12v source, which is actually around 14.2v when the car is running.
Tell ya what, I'll test it out and if it works, I'd be happy to send you guys some if you pay postage. I should stipulate, though, that it will require some minor soldering no matter what, as the original bulbs are soldered on for some damn reason.
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There are a few bulbs in the radio and behind the HVAC controls, but they're tiny incandescent bulbs and I'm sure they burned out long ago. Haven't done the HVAC control lights, but I did pry open my stereo and replace the bulbs with a couple of white LEDs. The voltage to the bulbs wasn't 12v, but 8v for some reason. I put the two LEDs in series, but didn't use a resistor. They were nice and bright for a few months but finally blew as they're only rated for 3.2v each. Gonna order me some resistors and do it all up right someday.
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Those little in-line adapters are pretty nifty, but a bit spendy for the average Subaruer. Might be able to make one yourself somehow. I know some old mechanical cruise control setups had a pair of input and output speedo cable couplings with a couple gears inside. Would just be a matter of changing the gearing, or doing something belt-driven.
Although my solution, when I get around to it, is that since I was gonna make some white gauges anyway, I was gonna just redraw the speeds on the dial.
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Is the one you're talking about down at A1 Johnson's? I think I remember it on a little EA81. How much do they want for it?
I thought about trying to get it to fit on my EA82, but ended up making something stronger.
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Articulation, or lack thereof, is always what kills me.
But in low-range these things will climb anything, and the smaller tires help compensate for the lack of power. The biggest problem with lifting is that the taller gearing of big tires makes you run out of balls real quick, and can also wreak havoc on the stock clutch which only has like 600ft-lbs of claming pressure.
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Holy poopsnot, amazing that it fits so well.
However, it's only a 5.0 liter and puts out just 300hp. But it's got one smooth torque curve. Peak torque is 355ft-lbs at 4000rpms, but will still put out 300ft-lbs at 1200rpms!
Doncha wanna just mate that to a dual-range transmission?
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Might be easier to find an EJ205. Check with ForeignEngines.com.
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And don't forget that they owe you a rental car from the date of the accident until you actually receive a settlement check from them. And for each day that they don't give you a rental car, they do owe you for lack of use, which is determined by how much a comparable rental car would have cost you.
There should be a few ea81's around on the forums for sale, just gotta dig around. Hell, if nothing else, get a few folks on here with ea81's to post fake ads for their cars with prices at like $5000.
I wish you luck with dealing with them. Insurance companies have caused me more pain than the accidents. A drunken Indian ran into my car, my motorcycle, and my friend's Porsche 944 parked in front of my house in September and we're still going around in circles with the insurance company. They finally gave me a rental, but a few weeks later some wongleflute in a stolen Honda ran into it and my roommate's car.
I got so stressed out over it all I haven't had time to finish dealing with them.
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There's a tried-and-true method for fixing a saggy front. It's called a brassiere.
complicity simplicated
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Yeah, but you can only do a 2" lift without lifting body and diff, or else you risk grenading your CVs.
The problem with doing a spring adjustment to gain height instead of blocking the struts is that your susp becomes very stiff and you lose travel. And that would also create articulation issues in a car with already bad articulation
However, since most ea82s had adjustable front springs, you could just rig up something similar in the back.