Cyfun

You can modify the factory radio to have an Aux input. It's just a matter of splicing into the dongle going from the tape player to the receiver. The three inner wires are for audio, and the outer two are for a switch to toggle the signal on and off. There's a thread here somewhere on it. What I ended up doing since my tape deck died anyway was to cut off the dongle at the tape deck, solder on an old 1/8" headphone cable and a toggle switch. Then I plug it in to my cellphone or MP3 player. Quality is actually quite good cause it's designed to amplify the weak signal coming from the tape player.

I got a big 500-pack of 5mm white LEDs off of eBay a few months ago for $20 for an LED tail light conversion project. You can get them in smaller quantities for a bit less, but I figured I might as well stock up for $20. And I just did some maths, and for two 3.2v white LEDs to run with an 8v current, you only need a 100ohm resistor, which I happen to have like 200 of. Woot! As for the heater control lights, those are likely 12v, which is fine because I purchased 100ohm resistors so I could wire 4 white LEDs in series to a 12v source, which is actually around 14.2v when the car is running. Tell ya what, I'll test it out and if it works, I'd be happy to send you guys some if you pay postage. I should stipulate, though, that it will require some minor soldering no matter what, as the original bulbs are soldered on for some damn reason.

There are a few bulbs in the radio and behind the HVAC controls, but they're tiny incandescent bulbs and I'm sure they burned out long ago. Haven't done the HVAC control lights, but I did pry open my stereo and replace the bulbs with a couple of white LEDs. The voltage to the bulbs wasn't 12v, but 8v for some reason. I put the two LEDs in series, but didn't use a resistor. They were nice and bright for a few months but finally blew as they're only rated for 3.2v each. Gonna order me some resistors and do it all up right someday.

Those little in-line adapters are pretty nifty, but a bit spendy for the average Subaruer. Might be able to make one yourself somehow. I know some old mechanical cruise control setups had a pair of input and output speedo cable couplings with a couple gears inside. Would just be a matter of changing the gearing, or doing something belt-driven. Although my solution, when I get around to it, is that since I was gonna make some white gauges anyway, I was gonna just redraw the speeds on the dial.

Is the one you're talking about down at A1 Johnson's? I think I remember it on a little EA81. How much do they want for it? I thought about trying to get it to fit on my EA82, but ended up making something stronger.

Articulation, or lack thereof, is always what kills me. But in low-range these things will climb anything, and the smaller tires help compensate for the lack of power. The biggest problem with lifting is that the taller gearing of big tires makes you run out of balls real quick, and can also wreak havoc on the stock clutch which only has like 600ft-lbs of claming pressure.

Holy poopsnot, amazing that it fits so well. However, it's only a 5.0 liter and puts out just 300hp. But it's got one smooth torque curve. Peak torque is 355ft-lbs at 4000rpms, but will still put out 300ft-lbs at 1200rpms! Doncha wanna just mate that to a dual-range transmission?

Might be easier to find an EJ205. Check with ForeignEngines.com.

And don't forget that they owe you a rental car from the date of the accident until you actually receive a settlement check from them. And for each day that they don't give you a rental car, they do owe you for lack of use, which is determined by how much a comparable rental car would have cost you. There should be a few ea81's around on the forums for sale, just gotta dig around. Hell, if nothing else, get a few folks on here with ea81's to post fake ads for their cars with prices at like $5000. I wish you luck with dealing with them. Insurance companies have caused me more pain than the accidents. A drunken Indian ran into my car, my motorcycle, and my friend's Porsche 944 parked in front of my house in September and we're still going around in circles with the insurance company. They finally gave me a rental, but a few weeks later some wongleflute in a stolen Honda ran into it and my roommate's car. I got so stressed out over it all I haven't had time to finish dealing with them.

There's a tried-and-true method for fixing a saggy front. It's called a brassiere.

Yeah, I'm almost positive it's just condensation. I see it happen a lot when it gets cold out. Another reason to throw together a catchcan.

Ah yeah, the Suub motors have massive PCV lines, that's right. I bet you could find a fuel filter that might fit somewhere. But what I suggested might at least work temporarily so that he could determine if the PCV is gushing oil. The jar idea is great, too, for a more permanent solution. Someone needs to make those things in kits for $25.

Try a cheap catchcan: Get a big clear plastic inline fuel filter for a couple bucks. They're usually set up for 1/4" hose. Not sure what the PCV line is, might have to use some adapters. I did this on my Eagle Talon turbo, catches enough of the oil to not let it get into the intake, and I just unhook it and pour it into the crankcase occasionally. At the very least it'd give you an idea of how much oil is going through your PCV system.

For the amount of trouble you'd got to to track down some pugs, might as well redrill some Toyota steelies, or go the extra step to convert to 6-lug hubs so you could run any Toy or Chev 6-lug rims you want. The other day, some chick on Craigslist had a set of 20-inch stock Cadillac Escalade rims and tires for $200. Was tempted to grab them just to try and fit them onto my GLW. Not for everyday use, but just to look like a tool when cruisin on Friday nights. xD

I've priced out windshields for many cars at $130 to $180 installed locally. On my own GLW they quoted me around $140, however it had a lot of rust around the bottom so they didn't want to touch it. If you're on a super tight budget, I'd say research the urethane to use and try it. Otherwise I'd say spend the $150-200 and have someone do it right. And remember, junkyard glass is probably already pitted to hell, whereas new glass will be nice and clear. Very important when driving at night. Also, many insurance companies these days have a $50 glass deductible if you have comprehensive. I run with comp/coll at a $100 deductable on all my cars, mainly cause there's a lot of gravel around here that likes to ding up paint and windshields, and the premiums aren't that much more than if I just ran with liability. You might wanna research what rates are like for you, and if you do get better insurance, wait a few months, then file a windshield claim. Yes, I know, it's not totally ethical, but neither are insurance companies.

Exactly. Why go to the trouble of a swap when you could find an EJ22 for about the same price. However, an EA swap would be as easy as pulling the old, dropping in the new, and would probably take a good day's labor. Whereas an EJ swap would entail more fab work and some wiring fun, probably take a weekend or two, depending on your experience with the matter.

A good way to check toe yourself is to get two thumbtacks, put them in the tread of left and right tires so they are parallel to the ground. Measure the distance between them. Then roll the car back or forward so the tire rolls 180 degrees (don't roll over the tacks, roll so the tack goes over the top), then measure distance again. Then do some maths with the radius of the tire to get the angle at which they compare. And alignments don't have to be super accurate. Once you hit a speed bump, everythings off a bit.

Yeah, xt6 clutch is the way to go, but from what I've researched, the replament models you get from oreilly or carquest or napa actually don't have very much clamping pressure for some reason. The one you want is the oem replacement from the dealer. However, they're really fjdjsjsl expensive. Like $350 for the full kit. One glimmer of hope is that apparently Exedy now makes one, and I think of all places Amazon has the best deal at like $120. I've got an EJ22 in my GLW, and when I'm in 4low and doing some serious offroading, my clutch does start slipping a lot, and after a bit it starts smoking and slipping badly. And that's just with a 140hp motor. You might ask Randy in Bozeman what he uses. Roostema something is his username.

Just cannibalize one from another car. Don't the newer Suubs have several levels of intermittant settings. In fact, don't they also keep the wiper going for a few swipes when you spray some washer fluid, too? Hell, I wanna do this for my front wipers!

Would it hurt to drill out the back of the studs a bit? Once you get the head off, you'd have a nice little centered hole that you could send a slightly smaller bit through.

Not very difficult. There were two kinds of CC: factory, which I believe was buttons on the left of the dash by the rear defrost button, and dealer-installed had buttons on the steering wheel itself. I may have those backward. Either way, just a matter of stealing the buttons, some wiring, the CC module, and the actuator on the throttle. I'm pretty sure they used a speed sensor off the ECU so they didn't need to attach to the speedo cable at all. There's some write-ups on it somewhere... My situation is that I've got an EJ22, so I'm probably gonna hafta find an EJ cruise control setup. Should be easier to find a donor car, tho.

All that toe on the RR seems odd. But if you're sitting on your bumpstops, some springs and shocks might be a good place to start. As far as alignment goes, just try sighting down the length of the car. If it looks okay it's usually pretty close. You would probably notice immediately if the camber were too much, so you're probably gonna look for too much toe in or out. And if it is too far bent to be adjusted, here's a trick for those on a budget: get another car and a tow rope, and yank on the thing a bit! If you have a welder, though, that would probably be preferred.

Put taller tires on the front

Amazing build! Glad you're still updating. Have you considered tearing out the carpet and spraying it with bedliner or rubberizer? And what're you going with for a clutch? Can you use the clutch for the newer motor, or are ya gonna hafta use a clutch designed for the d/r trans?