Cyfun

My rule of thumb is that if a car's axles are easy to swap, then I usually go with the cheapo Oreilly brand with the lifetime warranty, as they're only like $60. If it's on a vehicle that's a *************** to replace axles on, I spend the extra cash to get new axles at Carquest or Napa. My GLW has a 2" strut lift with no body spacers. When I got the car, one of the inner boots was torn, slinging grease everywhere. Luckily my lower balljoints pop off pretty easily, so these axles are quick to swap once you've done it a time or two. I replaced it with the cheapo one cause I knew that the lift would stress the joints, and I only drive it around town and offroad, so I'd rather thrash crap axles with lifetime warranties than slightly better axles with only a 1 or 3 year warranty.

Have you thought about doing something angled on the rear, either inboard or tilted forward? Been tossing around the idea of getting mine angled forward at the top to get more travel and a bit softer ride. I need better articulation badly.

Very shmexy! What are you going to do for shocks/springs in the back?

That first buggy with the Justy setup is pretty sweet. Geared too high, though, and needs to get an LSD or to weld the diff. Bigger tires/more travel would help, too, but its already geared too high. Great idea, though. I've entertained using a diff as a gear reducer, too. Plus, then it opens up a lot of options for relocating your engine to the middle or back. Better yet, use two diffs so you can use some 40" tires.

Are you talking about drilling rims or hubs? Sorry, I was referring to the bit for drilling my hubs out to accept 14mm studs. But either way, 1/2" is smaller than the 14mm studs, which are about 0.55", so you must have had to hog them out a bit.

Could still be a vacuum leak...

Hahaha, that truck's quite the troll. I like his paintjob tho.

I was calling all over town last weekend, tryna find a 35/64" or 14mm bit for my 6-lug conversion. Ace Hardware, Lowes, HomeDepot, had jack squat. A couple of the industrial fastener suppliers had 35/64" but it was over $30! Napa Auto Parts had one in stock for $24. But then I happened to call Carquest, who had one in stock for $14! Score!

Yeah, pointless to go to all that trouble just to install bearings that are probably in worse shape. You'll need two. eBay is your friend. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RBI-6207-2RS-C3-Premium-Bearings-Lot-Set-2-NEW-/280669143095?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41592f4037#ht_500wt_1180

Ah okay, you mean with a Frankensteined transfer case from another vehicle?

Sure, but who has an old Subaru that doesn't have a tcase?

Yeah, mine's got 3.90s, but luckily Soob made 4.11s. Were those in the automatics? But wait, you say most folks who want lockers are in newer soobs without a high/low tcase? I would have thought most who have a subaru for offroading are in an ea82 or ea81 specifically because it has lowrange. If you've got a newer car with AWD, then your offroading is probably mostly higher speed stuff such as mudding and rallying, in which case LSD works well enough. Amiright?

So what other IFS diffs might work for a rearend swap? A Toyota front IFS? Frankenstein the Toyota inners to the Subaru outer CVs? Or swap the locking Toyota hubs over completely? I'm guessing there are clearance issues with truck IFS diffs, but if you've got your diff dropped for a lift anyway, would that provide enough clearance?

Tempted to just paypal the guy, and pick it up when I'm there for turkeyday.

Hey Randy, speaking of Quantums, just saw this on Bozeman craigslist. You should get it, if only to sell to me when I can get my rump roast out there. Would make for a ***************in parts car, or to leave as is, or to try and lift! http://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/2696303262.html

I'm considering just swapping the locking spindles and hubs from a Toy or Nissan or somethin. Hoping I can just find something with a matching spline. Otherwise, could frankenstein a CV I suppose. Doesn't sound like anyones found a good entire diff to swap over.

Um, don't ea82 fwd/hi4/lo4 transmissions already lock the center diff when engaged in hi or low 4?

You lucky bastard, that's a sweet find! How much did the diff run ya?

You made it there and back without issue?! Incredible!

Dayum! Gotta watch out for those wild fences! Trees can be just as bad. Glad you and the rig are intact. Next upgrade to consider might be a drag parachute.

As long as you're sure it's the right wire. Those parts store testers are a joke. They've given me bad alternators and starters that tested fine, but when I spent half a day swapping them in and out repeatedly, still didn't work. And vice versa, I took my pickup there once cause it seemed like the alt wasn't charging. Their tester said the alt was bad. Bought a new one and a voltage regulator, and it still didn't charge. Finally found that the stupid charge wire from teh alt to the pos terminal was loose. Bastard had tested the alternator AT THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. At least it was an old Dodge with a cheap alternator.

Heh, I bet when the parts store got back your bad alternator, they sent it to the manufacturer, who had it test fine, and sent it to Rob's parts store.

I bet that's your problem. Easy to miss in the whole wiring conversion cluster************.

With the car running, if you use a voltmeter to check voltage between the big positive wire on the alt and the alt ground, does it show anything? What about the wiring coming in to the alt from the ignition that tells it what to put out. The exciter wire, I think it's called. If not that, then it could just be a random bad alt.