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i took a stethescope to each head then to the oil pan, its really loud at the oil pan,

car fired up fine, after reading the article we came to the conclusion that the battery just needed to be replaced, we replaced the battery. ran great yesterday, started the car today after putting on some engine degreaser to clean the motor, now im back to square 1, as my luck would have it. the new engine is knocking something fearce , i think i may have pissed off the Subaru gods or something.

So would this interruption to the battery back up power supply to the ecm cause a misfire or no pulse to the #1 injector, what is the best way to maybe circumvent this issue?

i had an earlier post on swapping a ej22 out of a 96 legacy into my 99 sus, we went back and forth getting the timing right, i finally got the timing right and i got the car running, it ran but it had a code for the crank shaft not being in sync with the cam, we replaced the crank sensor and the car ran beautifully for 15-20 minutes, then all of the sudden the car ran like crap, my mechanic buddy hooked it to his scanner and came back that there is no pulse to the #1 cylinder injector, so as you can imagine the car runs on 3 cylinders, he was lead to believe that the ecu has gone bad, will a ej22 ecu work in a 99 outback sedan running a 96 legacy ej22? assuming that both cars are automatics? are the pinouts the same?

i have the car baclk and it does run, poorly but it runs, i get codes p0431, 0403, and 0341, which seem to be either a cam crank sensor sync is off some and the egr, the egr doesnt really bother me too much, i replaced the hydrauklic tensioner portion, the tensioner pulley is the last none new thing on the timing portion, would the pulley its self cause the timing to keep jumping after the timing has been reset?

Where are they located, car lot? If it's Nate Wade Subaru there in downtown slc stay clear, I haven't had a very positive buying experience from them, mark miller Subaru seems better to me. Or is it on KSL classifieds?

do i need to cut off the one tab that faces the driver side timing cover?

but how do i get that new style to work with the old style i put the pic up of?

the bracket i have looks alot like this

i didnt use the tensioner or the assembly on the 22 that would have come from the 25. the 25d assembly doesnt look as if it will bolt up due to there not being the 3rd bolt on the driver side of the tab where it bolts to the driver side head under the inner timing belt cover

the ej22 is out of a 96, i did actually find the vin on the block, i took all the timing components and water pump from my 25d minus the belt and tensioner meaning they will not work with the 96 22e, I did put on a new timing belt on the 22e, the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly are the only things i did not change, i left them from the 22e, the story on the motor is that it is a craiglist special, it had 170-180 compression all the way around, the motor doesnt seem to turn over any faster than it should. it does have spark it does have fuel, i though maybe the fuel lines on the 22 were blocked or something till i took out out the injectors and there was fuel in the tubes when i removed the injectors, i actually just put the injectors out of the 25d on the 22 fuel rail thinking before i knew about the fuel in the rail. my theory is that the timing tensioner is the culprit, allowing the timing to be off a few teeth. when people change the timing belt do you change both the tensioner and the hydraulic assembly as well? or just the tensioner? the reason i ask is that most of the timing belt kits i look at only include the tensioner and not the hydraulic assembly.

engine rotates clock wise if i am looking at the front of the motor correct?

i had the old style and i did re-compress it prior to installing the timing belt and took the pin out after i had the timing belt aligned with the timing marks

i have fuel pressure, spark, timing is off 3-4 teeth now though, when one replaces the timing belt, and the tensioner do they also replace the hydraulic assembly on that as well? what would cause a motor that hasnt been started yet to skip timing that much by trying to start the motor or turning the motor by hand via crank bolt?