TOsborn

Interesting. BAT recently denied my submission to auction Quattro San. They said that due to interest, they are only considering submissions for $10k+ vehicles. They definitely are not the website they used to be.

Hello, glad to see there is still interest in QS. QS is still in safe storage, not getting any rustier! I have recently gotten really into early Ford Fiesta's (78-80), and finished a restoration on one I saved from a junkyard. It was a good warm up for the future QS restoration, not sure when that will start though.

Not much you can tell from photos, but recently new brakes, hammered out dents, and welded up the rusted rockers. Since it now rolls (brakes were stuck), it was pushed outside for photos. Need to drain oil to find out how much water is in it before running again. It was fun to prove this engine worked, but a swap might be inte future for something with an ECU...

Almost ready to fire! Exhaust is built, new from the downpipe back, dumps just passed the rear axle, leaving room for a muffler later. It's tacked together now, I'll add photos once it comes off for the finish welding. And the intake is looking good. The flange fit's Holley carbs, so I can downsize to a smaller Holley 4 barrel / 2 barrel later and use same intake. It's got some crazy curves going on to fit the carb/air cleaner without cutting the hood, but it'll work for a prototype. Plan is to start it in the next week or so. After finish welding exhaust, just need to hook up carb and add a battery. It ran before taking it apart, it should run again! (and much better with a carb that will actually meter fuel instead of just dumping gas into the intake...) All fabrication work courtesy of my dad, as the car is in WA and I am in LA. It helps to have a bored master fabricator / 30 year hot rod builder for a dad! Enough talking, photos: Also, since I live in CA, I have a slight problem. Thanks to the wonderful CA laws, this car will never be legal to register in CA. So, it looks like this will never be my driver while I'm here. Potential plan is to go back to building it into a rallycross car for starters (leaving it registered in WA), and then possibly stage rally. This is all far off...but since I already have a tow vehicle...why not!

Thanks. I am well aware the math doesn't add up. I'm pretty sure Leondhardt wouldn't of let me graduate if I didn't know how to size carbs, but that's a whole 'nother story. There are many motto's for the VRI, most revolve around "do some crazy crap that shouldn't work for little to no money." At least that was the motto when I was there, as we had little to no money. There are still a few tricks left to try and make the 625 work...cut out the secondary's and it transforms into a two barrel, that theoretically flows something roughly equal to 625/2. Will it work? Maybe! (I do admit that if the idle circuit is too big, I can't fix that). 2.5" would flow more...but I bet either the heads or rocker assembly let go before it becomes a limiting factor!

It's a 1965 F-100 with the 300 straight six, my main project. Been in the family since it was new, it's been mine for the past few years. Honestly I've put a ton more work into it then QS since it was my daily since I sold the '86 Scoob, now it's in storage. Good luck on finding one for you and your son, they are bulletproof and relatively simple and cheap to work on. Here's a completely off topic photo of it on a camping trip down Hwy 1:

Also, the unique sunroof is pretty much toasted. It's rusted solid, and is not worth repairing. I'm also about 100% sure it's not factory, based off of the quality of the installation. But, since the car can't be driven with a huge open hole in the roof, I've been looking at other fabric sunroof options. These guys make some pretty cool sliding fabric tops, and I will probably go with one of these: http://www.slidingragtops.com/25.html They appear to be very close to the one already in the car, even have the same pop up wind deflector.

^Thanks, but decided the turbo is going back on. Without the turbo...it'd just another hatch. Have to keep the QS spirit alive. The exhaust manifold and turbo/downpipe are back on the car. Had to do a bit of work to fit the manifold, as it had some serious time/space issues with the oil pan... Also they made some odd spacers to lower the manifold down a bit, they are neccesary for it to fit at all, so they were welded to the manifold (now it only needs two manifold gaskets, instead of four, definately a VRI job). Just ordered all the tubing/bends/flanges/etc to complete the exhaust. Making 2" exhaust all the way back and dump it out after the rear axle, and going to see how it sounds without a muffler first, if too loud then find a small glasspack for it. Still going to try the Holley 625cfm four barrel out for the carb, if it sucks then I'll buy a Weber. I sold my '86 three door turbo, so this car is now up to be my next daily (read as, now I am highly motivated to get it back on the road). My current daily is now a motorcycle, and I need a car for back up! I also just moved to Los Angeles, so the car will be making it's way down here once it is running and reliable. It'll be the only old Subaru in LA, as they seem to be non existent down here.

The plug appears correct, but the two wires (at least to me) look like the two wires that went to a mystery solenoid (the only solenoid I never found out what it did on my EA82T). Though, I always left my knock sensor unplugged, time it right based off your fuel choice and driving style and shouldn't be an issue.

Since the turbo exhaust was only an open downpipe, I think I'll still put something quick together for running NA. Thanks for the idea though!

In the spirit of "make this car run for minimal dollars" I scored a stock Harley Davidson carb for free from a friend. It's tiny, but I'm going to give it a shot. Going to first run it NA with the HD carb and see how that goes. So, after working on the car today, all I need to run is: -make an intake for the HD carb -exhaust manifold(ypipe) and make the rest after that Shouldn't be too much longer now! If anybody has an ea81 exhaust manifold in the greater Seattle area for free/cheap, let me know! Or else back to scouring the junkyards.

Another Saturday spent working on QS: Prepping for a "new" slightly used passenger door. Way better than what it had before, thanks Turbone. Remnants of the old door. Entire bottom rusted out. Quick paint to stop any new rust in this area. Pretty solid here though. Three colors now. Anybody got a straight/non rusted drivers door and hatch? After finishing the head job, time for the intake. Should have been easy. Took around four hours to clean and install this bugger. Fixing more cobbled together VRI student "fixes" is always...not fun. After some massaging, the intake is now installed with the annoying head adaptors. Plus all of the extra vacuum/EGR/coolant ports are sorted/capped. Finished intake installed in car. Began organizing engine bay, it's still a bit of a disaster. Next plans: -tidy loose ends in engine bay -create PCV system -mount y-pipe/turbo again -continue planning for carb part of intake and full exhaust

SOLD! To an older man who is going to commute in it, and maintain it as well as I have. I'm glad it's going to be well kept. Also...now I have a couple K to invest in Quattro San. The money has burnt a hole in my pocket, I persuaded my dad to lend me his welding skills for rust repair, and work is going to begin in earnest this weekend. It's going to be my AWD daily for the winter, so it needs to be put back together ASAP!

Ebay is your friend.

Well, after the control arm swap, I made some urethane front ARB bushings, and went rallycrossing! (insert mandatory poor quality video with heavy breathing from camera dude) ^I missed a 2-1 downshift, hence the awkward almost stop. I finished dead last in AWD, but it was a blast and I learned a lot! Car performed flawlessly. Hope to participate in another event before the winter is here. Next modifications include: make urethane rear ARB bushings, replace mechanical fan with a second electrical fan (wire both to switch in cab and temp sensor in radiator), remove EGR, and if I have extra cash laying around, a real oil pressure and coolant temperature gauge.