El Presidente

Naru, your making some assumptions about me, but that's ok. I know how to time an engine and my hearing is good. I'm also aware that pinging, especially higher rpm, is not always audible. I've taken apart a bunch of these engines (while working as an auto machinist and later as a hobby) without an egr and only seen a cleaner combustion chamber, with no damage from detonation or pinging. Do you know of anyone or heard of any problems from removing the egr on an ea82 from first hand experiences? I have yet to hear one. I can see how advance mechanisms incorporate or compensate for the egr, but really..how much timing differences are we really talking about? Do you know? 1°?.. 15°? -Not being a smart xss, just curious. Considering egrs are put on vehicles primarily for emissions, the link to pumping losses is valid but seems very overrated. This is considering other engines of the day (including the ea82 mpfi) and newer didn't/don't have them. Not all of course. Can you by any chance show how much of a difference in pumping losses an egr makes on an ea82? After reading what you said about ignition timing curves, it seems increasing the combustion pressure and timing on a 30 year old engine would feel like a gain in power because it's compensating for worn rings. I know you've been on the board a while, so I'm hoping you can answer these questions. Lol I'd be surprised if an egr weighs a pound, but we can round up

I found some pieces of the 3 plug pinout at the ausubaru forum, but it looks like it's specific audm. Somebody here has to have an 85-86 fsm they'd be kind enough to share. Bump

Opinions vary about this, but I've never heard a logical arguments as to why an egr system HELPs these engines. I've heard plenty of warnings, but nothing that was backed up. I certainly welcome a good explanation. I've disabled or removed several egrs from several ea82's and other makes and models over the years. I typically notice a slightly better top end and a better idle if it was faulty. Disabling it is easiest, just unplug the egr valve and plug the vacuum that goes to the solenoid. Done. You can also completely remove the system by blocking off the egr port on the intake with a custom steel plate and replacing the egr solenoid with a 35ohm 10watt resistor. Looks cleaner and functions the same as disabling it, your choice. Pros for pulling egr: -Cleaner intake and combustion chamber from less carbon from the exhaust getting into the engine. (My main reason for doing this) -Slightly better top end power (butt dyno) -Looks better Cons: -slightly higher combustion temps, never heard of, or had any problems from this. -May not pass emissions in your state/area. In Washington all you need is a half functioning cat and no CEL to pass in the areas or cities that require it.

I had a set made up at my local industrial supply store. Any place that deals with hydraulics will likely have the parts to put a set together. I paid $20 per hose which are stainless and custom length. I could have gotten then cheaper (about $10 a hose) at another place down at road, but I went to the first place I found. Outfits like this can also make custom power steering lines too.

Title says it all, I can find a ton of info on the later (87.5+) 4 plug ea82t ecus's but nothing for the earlier 3 plug ea82t ecu. I'm also looking for a pinout of the engine harness connectors as well. Some fsm scans would be great, but I'll take what I can get. The engine, wire harness and ecu in question is from an 86 2wd XT with an ea82t. TIA Josh

It'll bolt right up. I think you use the ea82 flywheel and starter, but someone else should confirm that.

If its idling at 40* BTDC, than restab the distributor 1 or 2 teeth and make it idle at 20*. The plug test will come back bad because your timing is so far off. Josh

Craigslist is a good place to look if no one here has one for sale and they can also be found in junkyards for cheap too. You can find them on toyota and datsun pickups, BMW 2000's and also VW's, although they never came stock an any of them IIRC. I've owned a few DF and DG series Webers, and I'd stay away from the DF series found stock on early 70's Pintos, and I believe the Chevettes and Colts got them too. They have a diamond top instead of the square one. Most have "Holley" printed somewhere on them and they weren't made to the same standards as the Italian Webers (DG series). Loyale 2.7 Turbo has a great write-up and even lists a trans-adapt carb adapter that I also recommend. It is built much better than the Redline one and is a lot cheaper to, at $40-45. Jezek's thread will answer just abut everything you can think of. Josh

Yes, some plugs go to nothing on most cars and others can be plugged in to do things like check codes or set timing. Josh

Be very careful using granite, the stuff you get for counter tops is not flat or even machined to any standard specification. If you were to put a machinists rule on it, you'd see lots of highs and lows. Machinists slabs are granite and would be perfect for this, but are far too expensive. Glass is poured so it naturally flattens out amazingly well and is cheap. I use a piece of 3/8" end table glass I got on Craigslist for $8 OP, Every time I have a no start after doing heads its %90 chance its valve timing. I never take the distributor out of the cam tower because there's no need, but since you did, I'd recheck that too. Josh

Thanks!, it's maybe %35-40 done. Maybe you can get some ideas from the skid pan and the sliders? I do daily drive it off and on, and I am planning on making two collapsible (like a stow and go) seats for the rear, but I hear ya it a little wild. I can't image how blown my mind would've been when I was a kid if my grandpa picked me up in this machine lol

Here's some ideas for your Advance Fabrication Class... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130989-cut-the-rear-off-my-wagon-this-last-weekend/ Josh

The nice thing about 6 lugs is you have so many options, I know I've seen pictures of an ea82 with 17's and it looked pretty good. I suppose you could go all the way to a 20" but your sidewall will only be a couple inches. I was going to run 245/40/17's on an EA82 sedan project and from what I measured out, they would have worked fine. The wheels were 17" 6 lug aftermarket chrome yukon wheels and yes, they were going to stick out a ways. I never got the wheels on the car because other projects had priority and I needed cash. Josh

Here's a video that Brian Dudas put together with footage from the last trip: There's also a good write up of how the day went under the video description. Josh

Nice build!

Thats Ricks. I don't think he has a build thread, but I know he's got an 8" lift on 31's and an ej22. Other than that I think the rest is fairly stock. He's got a nice ride. Josh

Looks like we're gonna get some snow at Walker on Sunday!

Which rig are you talking about?

My rig plus: 1. ej single range 5 speed with welded up 4wd, D/R's aren't gonna get any easier to find 2, Engine and trans at stock height, but moved back to the firewall so the front clip can be bobbed 10-12" 3. dovetailed front clip 4. atlas 2 or dana 300 tc - minimum 4:1 low range 5. 4 link rear suspension / 3 link front 6. Ford 8.8 rear axle 4.88 minimum ratio 5 lug w/ arb or ox locker 7. Dana 44 front axle 4.88 min also w/ aussie locker 8. Full subframe front to back 9. Full exo with intergral tube fenders front to back 10. 12k winch mounted to custom front tube bumper with hood-height stinger 11. cs144 alternator upgrade (140amp minimum) 12. OBA 13. Heat exchanger for hot water (washing hands after repairs, showers etc) 14. Custom heater to save space (stock ones are huge) 15. Custom passenger doors w/ plexi windows (stock ones are too heavy) 16. Hood mount radiator w/ two fans exhausting out the top of the hood 17. Custom rear stow and go suspension seats 18. Custom gauges, dash and center console 19. Hood snorkel extended up exo to the roof 20. Aftermarket headlight buckets, turn signals and a set of LED floods 21. Maxxis Bighorns, minimum 35/12.50/15's That would be a good start for me. If this still isn't a Subaru, take it up with the State of Washington because to them it is still a 87 gl wagon, anything else is opinions or semantics. If I get a letter from Washington DOL telling me that my rig is no longer a Subaru, I will no longer call it a Subaru. Josh

If I was doing a swap than yes, I'd go EJ, but I was just trying to get a running engine out of some free parts. As it turns out, I got two na ea81 heads from a buddy so now I really only need the good ea81 short block. I'll take pictures this weekend of everything else to sell off. Send me a PM if you'd like firsties on anything. Still curious though, has anyone ever used ea81 mpfi heads under spfi or a carb? What about the ea81t cam, any idea how it does on a non boosted engine? Josh

I'm getting a couple ea81 turbos soon, - one with a bad bottom end, the other is assumed running condition - and I'm considering using the good ea81t in a ea82 wagon with SPFI. I don't have the ecu's or the MPFI wiring. Here's what I'm thinking: -EA81T block w stock turbo cam -EA82T Heads shaved .025", maybe not( I'm aware of the change in valve geometry) -EA82 Pistons(compression bump) -EA82 SPFI (Already in the car) Ok so I've dropped ea81's into ea82 cars before with spfi, but I have no experience with the turbo ea81s. I'm not gonna use the MPFI injectors, but they'll stay to plug the injector holes. Once I get the compression up, my big question is the EA81 cam...will it be worthwhile? Gutless(more gutless than a stock ea81 under ea82 spfi)? I'm not interested in building an ea81 turbo, but I have these parts and I wouldn't mind a running engine. I couldn't find any info in going from ea81 turbo-->ea81 non-turbo w/ spfi or weber, any input is appreciated! TIA Josh

Here's a review thread for Subiefest 2015 at Nasioc: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2748922 I like the part were the honest reviews of Subiefest started disappearing from the fb page . Reading this thread really makes me appreciate the staff and organizers at WCSS, even when the power went out in the entire city, they managed to keep things rolling. Keep up the good work guys!

I don't think I can make it Scott, I've got too much on my plate this weekend. I'll join you soon though ok! Josh

All the standard ea82 radiators I've gotten have been one row aluminum. I think I got mine from Orielly's for $120 Josh

I believe all the aftermarket radiators now have the auto trans tank on the side, but as said before the lower neck is different. I believe 85-89 have ones that angles up, and 90-93 go straight out almost. Either one can be used, you just have to get the matching lower hose. When I've searched in the past the 90-93 ones are cheaper so I've always gone that route. The newer aluminum single rows typically out perform the older copper two row radiators, but it depends who you ask. My single row aluminum ea82 radiator is more than enough for the ej22 it's in front of and I abuse the hell out of it.