El Presidente

My rear used to sag a little and now its higher than level compared to the front, so I'd say I've reduced weight on the back end. All the metal I bought only weighed 246 pounds and I haven't even used it all. I didn't get a weight of the cut off metal from the back end+glass+interior plastic and sound mat, but driving it feels lighter and not so dumpy on the back end.

Thanks guys! I used 3/16 because the bed frame will be part of a hybrid exo/subframe. I'm hoping to get the turn signals and reverse lights done this weekend, a tailgate, weld up some brackets for new mirrors(so I can go doorless) and hopefully get started on a removable divider to seal in the passenger compartment. Josh

I used 2x4x3/16 wall tube for most of it, 1.5x1.5x3/16 in the outside corner and 14ga sheet for the tail light housings. I don't have turn signals yet, gotta wait till payday..

I'm not done yet, but thought I'd share what I've done. Last time I'll ever see it like this: I spray glued around the window and covered it with plastic to keep the mess to a minimum All prepped up: Started cutting: Started with the bed tops/gate opening Then the bumper subframe(the piece going across the bottom is what the new bumper will attach to) Welding it in: Then the sides and roof bar: Figuring out the tail light housing:

I bought these seats in 09 and they have been in storage ever since. The car they came from was wrecked in early/mid 08, so they have about a year of use on them.They are WAY more comfortable than the worn stock ones, they are all manually adjustable and they're heated too..:cool: I did have to cut the stock rear outside seat mount off and also bash on the front subframe member the front mounts attach to, but it all went fairly well and very worth while. After looking at these pictures I realized I need to put the trim back on the sides. Josh

Really?!...than don't listen to that mechanic....rebooting is easy and cheaper than buying and installing a new one. If he thinks its not worth it, find another guy. Any aftermarket axle will not hold up like the stock one you have, I'd take care of it!! Its also gonna cost more replacing junk aftermarket axles all the time($50-70 a piece-everytime) than fixing the good one you have($12 for a boot)

Just have your stock ea82 flywheel ground to xt6 specs(.815") and run a stock ea82 clutch, it works great and keeps parts easy to get. All the xt6 pressure plates that are left are of lower quality and stock ones from Subaru aren't available anymore. Josh

If your so worried about people stealing your idea, maybe you shouldn't sell any lockers.. If you sell any, you can pretty much count on somebody using it to make another, much like you did with the full size locker(although yours is modified), so can you really say your worried about someone knocking off your locker, when you've done the same? Do you think detriot would be ok knowing you copied one of their locker to make yours? Don't you think they'd want royalties for your use of their patent? Instead of thinking of this as "your" idea, think of as your "locker". So what if the plans are out there?!...If someone is going to copy yours they will(no, you can't stop them, detriot couldn't stop you!), but you can offer a locker ready to go with no hassle. Thats your advantage on the market, your head start on production, not your plans. You still have to worry about patent infringment on your part, so your production can probably only go so far. Is what it is. For years Subaru guys have been begging detroit, arb, aussie, lockrite etc., to make a locker for a r160 and from what my searching around has found out is that the market isn't big enough for them to deal with. They can, but it would be to risky for detroit to start making these and if they wanted to, they would have already. Once you sell them, detriot could buy one and reverse engineer your modifications and easly call them their own, but they don't care about a little subaru r160. Josh

Yes, if you put the spring washer on backwards, the nut will turn loose with enough force to shear the cotter pin. I've shamefully done it.. Josh

Sounds normal. Most EA82's have only 2-3 links. I think the furthest one forward was for something like air suspension or something. Josh

I ran one on my ea82 before my EJ swap and it did good, Vegablade owns it now on his brat. They are quickly ID'd by the diamond shaped airhorn compared to the original webers square airhorn. Most parts interchange between the DF and DG series. Heres a little backround(if I'm wrong let me know) on the DF series..Ford asked Weber back in the late 60's to build them a carb and weber handed them their 32/36..Ford liked it, but wanted it made cheaper and for left hand drive vehicles, so Weber made a mirror imaged 32/36 and cut some corners, like in the bushings and casting quality. The ones that where made for Ford were badged under the Holley name as a 5200 The throttle shafts can be dealt with(most common problem) by pulling whats left of the plastic bushings out and coating the throttle shafts with car wax and then JB welding them back in the carb. The shafts release because of the wax, and you have a perfect fit. Most have had the crap driven out of them, so screws may be sloppy and not want to stay put. You cannot change the linkage plate on a DF, its pressed on. They will need re-jetting, including an emulsion tube or two. On the up side, they are somewhat easy to find in JY's. Most have been pulled of the pintos and put on things like couriers and early rangers, but I've found them on Jeeps and Toyotas too. They do fit much better than a DG series, because they have plenty of clearance all the way around and the linkage plate is on the same side as the hitachi. The linkage plate can be used, but you have to trim some of it off and use a cable to ball stud adapter($8). The best DF to get is off a 70-73 pinto 2.3L, '74 also is good, but is a one year model with the most significant change in the choke pull-off and cold idle cam. These 4 years have the biggest of the DF bores and no emissions..as close to a DG as you can get, all power and effiency. The 70-74 pinto 2.0's used the niki carb and isn't nearly as good, but required a lot less attention. 75+ gets smaller an has emissions crap on it. I think the last year for the Holley 5200 on the pinto was '78. You said you tried calling Weber..Redline owns all the weber stuff and even if you get one through carbs unlimited, its a rebadged Redline. If you do mean Redline, good luck, they don't care about customer support and if you get through you will seriously impact their busy day of being incompetent and useless. Josh

This is looking really sweet! As far as price..An Aussie Locker for a Dana 30 runs about $250-300, so I'm thinking one for a little R160 would be the same or less. Of course, you can charge whatever you want and people will pay stupid amounts for something like this, but if you can keep the price lower, its available to a wider market(including me). Base on what I see for similair sized lunchbox lockers, I think $200-300 would be fair, but production costs are production costs...all I can ask is to be fair to yourself and all of us:drunk: One thing to keep in mind is that when these things go into production, Subaru rally/street guys, and even Datsun guys will start taking an interest too, so your sales might be bigger than you think! Josh

I don't see why you can't just extend the strut blocks to 6"..seems like it would work to me. One thing I would do for what your doing though is change the angle of the strut blocks to 18*, maybe even 19*. The normal angle is 17*, but I wanted a little more negative camber(18*) to help with handling and to help counter act the wear of a FWD vehicle. My 6" lifted wagon, with no swaybar, and 30" Maxxis Bighorns handles better than it did at stock height on stock 185/70/13 Toyo Spectrums. Extending the radius rods isn't required for any size lift, but I have my radius rods extended 1.25" and I did it for two reasons: 1. It increases the clearance between the tire and the back of the fender(near the door) allowing you to run 30-31" tires without cutting or bashing the back of the fender. 2. Moving the knuckle forward increases castor angle which helps the vehicle self-center, but makes turning slightly more firm. It makes for a more stable and solid ride...I can let the wheel go while moving and it just goes straight, freeway speeds(Fastest I've gone on 30's is about 85mph) are comfortable and the rig feels secure and planted to the road. Secure and planted like how a truck feels, not a WRX. I extended mine by cutting them and sleaving them with 3/4" grade B pipe . The pipe butts up to bushing flange at the rear mount and goes as far forward as possible on the control arm end, both ends are welded up. Its stronger than the old one and the only part that bends is the stock part that comes out on the control arm end..I know. Josh

I'll be there, plus my newly EJ'd rig Josh

Mine are like the first ones with the black rubber seals. I got them from Mcguire Bearing and cost me $8 a piece and some change. They've seen lots of abuse turning 30" mud terrains on the trail and freeway and are still holding up flawlessly. You willn't find sealed bearings at any auto store like rockauto, napa, carquest etc..you have to go to an industrial supply/bearing supplier. If you decide to get normal unsealed bearings get them at the same place. Last I checked, unsealed bearings for a subaru run about $5 at Mcguire Bearing compared to $15 at rock auto and $40 at napa. Josh

1. Can you pull the throttle cable bracket off and mount it on the other side of the carb? The stock cable will work, trust me. The choke should be facing the p/s pump and electric chokes will fit if you put a dent in the reservoir. Fuel inlet should be on the passenger side of the car. 2. If you have a vacuum gauge(or your finger) put it on one of the ports. The one you want will have weak vacuum at idle, which gets stronger with rpms. The wrong one will have good vacuum at idle and none at cruising rpm. 3. Its part of the emmisions system and it can go. Its tied into the exhaust, which I mentioned earlier. You just cut the tubes going off the exhaust and put quarters or dimes under the re-installed flange to seal the hole. Details are in a couple weber threads 4. Yes, all EGR's do is help you pass emmisions and cause problems. Your motor will not burn up or run hotter, but it will be cleaner and you'll have a slight power increase. When an EGR is active, it allows inert exhaust gas into the intake stream which reduces your effective displacement, reducing power and efficiency. It also brings in a lot of carbon and other crap into your intake. 5. Get rid of the carbon canister, seal the vent hose and run a vented cap. Its the setup webers are designed to run with. Carbon canisters on a carbed car will not increase MPG's, or help in any way..they are strictly for emmisions. 6. Its Redline, they suck and we have to deal with it. If you can get or make a new exhaust y-pipe do that instead of gutting your cat. The weird shape and bits left in there will make turbulence in the exhaust stream hurting performance and MPG's. Josh

I just pulled a rear sway off a gl-10 turbo at the jy and it didn't attach to the body, just two mounts on each trailing arm. Josh

A picture of your clearance problems would help.. All the write-ups say that the weber will hit the power steering pump, but I've never heard of it hitting the ac pump. You got it on right, right? the choke should be against the p/s pump.. All your emmisions and carbon can, can go and all vacuum sources can be capped except for heater controls and brake booster. The only thing that resembles emmisions will be your pcv system which is just 5/8" heater hose. The egr valve can be removed and egr tubes can be cut and reinstalled with quarters or dimes underneath them to block them off. Cats can go too, they block alot of air. Get a dizzy off a carbed ea motor and run that, theres a ported vacuum source on the carb for the vacuum advance. don't be afraid to advance the timing too...I ran 14* advance at idle, on 87 octane. Seal up the fuel return and vent line, but run an older style vented gas cap or do what I did and tear the seal so the tank doesn't over pressurize or lock up from vacuum lock. A weber will fit, but take redlines advice and products with a grain of salt. The customer support staff don't really care or are lazy and the products are not know for their craftsmanship, carbs are good, but redline adapters are known to leak. Josh

I'm running my carrier bearing upside down and it works great as long as the motor/trans tapers up to the carrier bearing. I'm 5" on the engine crossmember, 4 on the trans and 3" at the shifter. I've had one u joint go out(start to squeak), but never any wobbles. Glad to hear you got it worked out though! Skid plate looks good, but that thin stuff will likely collapse. Some square tube behind it would make a world of difference. Also welding some plates around the bolt heads will keep rocks from shearing them off or deforming them to the point of unusable. I'd be concerned about the sheet metal screws not hold well too. Josh

No, the whole purpose of going to an Industrial Supply place is because they make custom lines. They should have all the fittings to screw right into the car and even use the stock brakeline holder in the front, just bring your stock ones in and have them make some that are longer. For a 6" lift, have them add 6", just make sure you do it on the correct side of the holder. Pretty much, take it apart and put it back together if your changing the brakelines. Remember to pull your clutch fan on the motor, all grounds(don't forget the one on top of the tranny), vacuum lines, coil wire and your heater hoses. I also diconnected the engine and dizzy harness Josh

I had Greenshields Industrial Supply make them in Everett. I probably could have found a cheaper place, but I wanted it moving asap. Any industrial supply place that make hydraulic hoses for equipment should be able to hook you up. Some places may tell you they can't make them for a car, because some of the hoses aren't DOT approved. They've asked in the past and I always tell them its for a offroad rig that doesn't go onroad. The pitch rod is the mount that attaches to the firewall and the top of the motor/trans. Its right in the center of the motor on top. Josh

x2 Anywhere along the pinch seam works for jackstands, but I'd turn yours 90*, so it hooks the pinch seam. On the front I know you can cut the brakeline holder on the strut instead of taking the line off(then bleeding the brakes) and fishing it through the holder. I don't think the back is long enough, but you may be able to bend the hardlines around to make it work. When I lifted mine, I got stainless braided lines made and if you can afford it, I recommend that. They cost me $140, but my brakes are WAY more solid..solid enough that I don't see the need for rear disks. Lift the rear first, the front is harder, but is easier to do with the suspension somewhat relaxed when the rear is at the same height. I used just the sharp turn in a stock radiator hose for the driver side radiator hose and just picked one off the wall to make the other side work. If you come up north sometime soon you can have my old hoses, I'm doing an EJ swap right now and don't need them. Don't forget the pitch rod, I used 1/2" mild steel rod to extend it. I unbolted the rear subframe and used a floorjack to help hold it in place while I bolted it back together, its not that heavy Josh

I was asking if you knew how far under .890 spec you can go. I've gathered that .815 works on a ea82 4wd clutch, but I was looking for the limitations, if you've gone past .075" under. I used to be an auto machinist and wouldn't consider taking anything to anyone that wasn't ARBA certified. Thanks for the help Josh

I just stripped two obd1 harnesses and I couldn't find any good writeups or threads that helped much. Yes, a lot of responses are just "strip everything you dont need", which is very vague considering most people don't know what they need! Even finding a strategy to get started with is tough. I was able to get the help of another board member to help me out and things went much easier, if you can do this, do it. If you can't, don't sweat it. First, strategy...start at the plug ends and not at the ecu end of the harness, you'll work from the ecu end once all the extra stuff is gone. Identify all plugs needed by plugging them into the motor. Depending on the year, you'll have two or three engine harness plugs, these are light grey and square..don't confuse them with plugs for an auto tranny, if it came with one..they look very similair, but a majority will go back to the TCU. The harness for the Maf is the longest and there is another group for the O2 sensor, and the tps and aic(i think). If IRCC theres only like 5 plugs you need. There are some exeptions to "cut out everything that doesn't plug in" things like the fuel pump and ignition relay(which is mounted together on a little plate), on a abd1 i'd leave the check connectors and I also left my SSM(Subaru Select Monitor..Subaru's obd1 diagnostic port), If its obd2, leave the obd2 port. Start cutting, if its unidentified, you don't need it, because you've already isolated everything you do need. I found it easier to just cut the connectors off and leave the wire in the harness, once you have all the connectors cut you don't need, pulling the wire is easy and will come out by the handfuls. I always cut an inch or two from the connector so if I make a mistake, I have something to solder onto. Do not cut the shielded wire, they are for critical sensors and very voltage sensitive Once you have all unnecessary wires in the harness out, you'll realize there are cut wires going to the ECU...don't panic...these are for things like power to the ecu, grounds, VSS sensor(which is in your car already behind the instrument cluster), check engine light, starter, etc. This is the point when you work from the ecu end. Get a pin out of the ecu(its in numbchux ej writeup) and identify every cut wire and give it what it needs, there may be some that stay cut so don't be alarmed. Once you do one, the next one is a breaze..my second harness took 2 hours to strip from still wrapped in tape. My experiences are based on obd1, so yours will be different, but much of what I said should apply. Good luck Josh

After talking around, I've decided to do exactly this. Do you by any chance know how far you can go under the .890" spec.? .075" under spec seems like a lot, when I planned to start at .010" under spec after talking with a clutch rebuilder! Thanks for the input Josh