El Presidente

I've seen this done before too, and the 12V systems take FOREVER to fill a tank a 3-5gal tank, they don't move enough CFM's. A compressor like a Sanden or a york are like a 110V compressor and can fill a 5 gal much much faster(like 30-45sec.), depending on what compressor your using. Everybody I met that has tried using an electric compressor for OBA has either switched to a real compressor or wish they did. An A/C compressor with a 3 gal tank can also keep up with an impact gun making trail repairs much easier. A 12V compressor can't do that. -Josh

What about the water pump o-ring? Did you replace that when you did your pump? It should have come with a new one in the box. That o-ring gave me hell after I lifted my rig. When I was trying to get the lower radiator hose figured out I moved the tube a little bit and the old and stiff o-ring lost seal and start leaking. I thought it was the little 90* hose, because they're right next to each other. When they're old it doesn't take much for them to fail. Let us know what you find out! -Josh

Which side is it leaking coolant? Is it leaking in a new spot? if it is, more pics would help. Did you use sealant on your thermostat housing gasket? Did you replace the o-ring on the water pump tube? How are your radiator hoses? On the driver side, a leaky hose can cause coolant to run down the metal tube and drip off the block. Sometimes things will leak when the motor is cold and seal up when it warms up, so if you still stumped, I'd first clean your motor really good(sounds like you already have), leave it over night outside in the cold, pop the hood in the morning, wipe down any coolant you see, and let it warm up at idle while watching it. Coolant leaks on the top of the motor will naturally hug the block and drip off the bottom. -Josh

Do EJ's use Sanden compressors? If they do its super easy and doesn't require an inline oiler, like a York, but you shoulds always run a oil seperator. Heres some links for Sanden Compressors I've accumulated over the years, most of it is Jeep related, but a Sanden is a Sanden: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/c-onboard-air-compressor-21871/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/onboard-air-3027/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/lets-kick-around-ideas-trail-air-compressors-21849/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f140/sanden-onboard-air-system-write-up-742180/ http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/official-sanden-thread-215865/ This last one is the most comprehensive and covers several ways to do this on a Sanden. These guys run their compressors at their normal operating pressure of roughly 300psi and do it all day. I've though about tackling the EA82 hitachi compressor like a sanden, but the valving is different and it draws fresh air through the compressors crankcase. I recently acquired a York compressor and I think I'm just going to use that instead, because I know they work awesome. AMC/Jeep 4.0l's are notorious for blow by and I've seen guys run their OBA setups with their intake on the PCV system and it gets really nasty in the compressor, which can lead to premature failure, and the oil seperator. -Josh

I think Jeff may have a set of wheels and tires he can lend you to get started, I'll ask when I see him on Friday. I have a set of 235 Mud Tracs that are worn, but still have life left in them. I offered them to another NWWO member, but he hasn't been asking about them, so I'll ask him if he still wants them, but if he doesn't, you can use them or buy them for cheap. I also have a set of 15" chev 6 lug wheels for them to go on. I run 30x9.50R15's(slightly bigger than 235's) on my rig and it doesn't like the freeway, 60-65 is about my top speed. I run a Holley 5200, which is a Weber clone. Sorry, but your 195/75R14's willn't do you much good offroad, but 27's are a good compromise for on-off road. 235's will make life easier on the trail, but road performace will go down. Your clutch will wear a little faster, but its to be expected for offroading with oversized tires. They're not hard to change in these rigs. We did Jeffs tonight in an hour or two. The D/R trannys are pretty tough and it willn't really care one way or the other. -Josh

Hi Roger, you must be Skylars buddy, Welcome the the USMB! Do you have enough time to go wheeling at least once every other month, we're looking for guys who are going to be active, so the more runs you can make it on the better! Is this your DD? -Josh

Yes, with a 2" lift and 235's your gonna bump into rocks and stumps a little more, but some of the more active guys have this setup and they have no problem keeping up with one eye or the rest of the group. To fit 235's, your gonna have to cut your fenders, but I think you might be OK with 27's up there on a 2" lift. I think Vegablade runs this setup. We're not going to put you right into the grinder on your first trip, the whole idea is to introduce you to wheeling Subaru's, and give an opportunity to learn a thing or two...not destroy your rig. The whole idea is to have some fun! -Josh

Your picture didn't come up, but I've seen them dropped there before. I'm not sure how well it works, but I think using a plate is easier. -Josh

I don't see why not, anybody is welcome to join and the free lift offer is available too, as long as they read this thread and understand whats invovled by taking it. I think we have 2- 2" lifts still, so we could get you and your buddy lifted. Does your buddy have a profile on Ultimatesubaru.org? Have him read the entire thread, answer the same usual questions, then post a little about himself, like you did. -Josh

We usually go the first saturday every month. We haven't gone out this month yet, but I heard of a trip possibly around the end of January, but nothing has been planned yet. I talked with Jeff and we're in agreement your a good candidate for one of the free 2" lifts. If you want to head north sometime and meet some of the guys, we can set something up. It would be a good time to ask any detailed questions and make sure your still %100 in. If your still on-board, we can get you lifted before you go home and we'll see you at the next trip! -Josh

I'm not misleading anybody....Subarus are cheaper, easier and less time consuming to work on..its true. I don't doubt your experience with Subarus, but your statements of disagreement are statements to your inexperience with bigger rigs. If you read the entire thread, this is an open invitation to someone with little to no experience with little to no tools, but with a desire to go wheeling and learn. If you want to start a different thread discussing which is harder to work on..a car or a full size solid axle truck, be my guest, but until then, lets keep this discussion on-topic. -Josh

Right on, Sounds perfect! As far as the drive, its something to consider, but don't sweat it too much, stubs, tie rods, ball joints and axles can be changed on the trail if need be and we have extra parts in case somebody breaks something. Like I said, we look out for each other! If you start wheeling with us you willn't be the only one traveling a good distance...some guys live in seattle, tacoma, and on the last run Bill came over from Toppenish, which is 3-4 hours away and on the other side of the mountains. On some runs we'd be making the long drive closer to you, like at Evans Creek or Elbe hills. If your still concerned, a $80 a year AAA membership will give you 3 free tows a year. Still on-board? -Josh

You can buy 4.44 gears new from the dealer for about $250 or you can get them from a Forester XT.

1. Yes, but you have to cut the pinion shaft and weld on the 4.44 pinion gear on the ea82 shaft. You can also start with a EJ dual range 5mt, but you have to have it imported as none where available in the states. 2. Yes, you can put in a stock LSD in the front, but it willn't hold up offroad. I think theres a helical gear LSD available, but they're expensive. 3. IIRC, the RX is the strongest EA82 clutch available other than a custom rebuilt one 4. When you put a 4.44 in a EA 5mt you have to trim the ring gear or it will hit the low range gears. AFAIK, 1.59 is the lowest you can go on the low range. If you want lower gears, put a transfercase in. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128402 -Josh

Umm...my post didn't need fixing.. Sorry, but Subarus are easier and it has nothing to do with anything being over torqued. On Jeep's you have to open up the diff if you have c-clips, you have to mess with gear oil disposal/refill, you need an allen driver for the calipers, If you have a Dana 35 in the rear, whats left of the axle will try to come out of the axle housing along with your wheel and tire.....Have you even tried removing a virgin hub from a Dana 30?!?. -Josh

X2 - I had the same problem and it was the relay. I replaced the little 22amp Subaru relay with a common 30amp GM relay, they're everywhere in the JY, cheap new, and less prone to failure. If your not getting power to the blower motor(test at the harness for the motor) you have another problem further upstream(fuse maybe), because unlike any other car I've worked on, the switches are on the ground, instead of the power wire, meaning the motor always has power, but only works when it gets ground. If you need a heater to get you by, just run an aux. ground wire to the motor and it will turn at full speed bypassing the relay and switch. Josh

Axle changing can depend on A LOT of variables, so it depends. How you drive, brand and age of the axles you have, engine/suspension upgrades and modifications, condition of other parts(motor mounts, bearings etc.), and tire size..etc.. are all factors that can help an axle live....or die. Other part failures have the same variables and same reasons...it just depends. I think Jeff knows somebody that can change an axle in 10 minutes, which is pretty impressive. Once you've done it a couple times, it gets easier and takes..I'd say under 20-30mins. They're easy to work on!

Your welcome to come wheeling with us when your good to go! Your gonna need a lift and tires to keep up though....Have you decided on what size lift and tire size your going with? -Josh

No, but its not as bad as you may think, changing an axle in a subaru is WAY easier than changing an axle in a Jeep..I know. Offroading any vehicle means replacing parts more often, but subarus have a big advantage: parts are cheap and they are really easy to work on. If you don't like working on your rig, no matter what it is, offroading might not be for you. -Josh

Usual questions: Is your car a dual range? Does it run well? Do you mind if it gets banged up? Are you up for wheeling with us at least semi-regularly? This means usually driving to Mount Vernon.. You say you have a little knowledge on cars....are up for learning more? We're not up for babysitting or holding hands, but we help each other out when things break and rigs get stuck. We'd certainly help you in times of need, but are you up for pulling your own weight, turning your own wrench, and helping others if you can? -Josh

Very cool, learn something new everyday! I wouldn't be worried at all about taking it to 2K soon after getting it running. If its going to blow up doing this, its dead already. I've done the same thing to several motors during break-in and never had one problem. If it was put together right and it has oil pressure, there's no reason to worry about anything. Delta knows their stuff!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site:ultimatesubaru.org%20stronger%20ea81%20axles search first, then ask...

Well you found the right forum to learn about these rigs! #1 rule about wheeling is to not go alone, you got somebody to go with up to walker valley right? Josh

Please try to keep posts like this in their proper section(Site Help and Suggestions) and always search before asking. 5 second search and I found this: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93803&highlight=posting+pictures Josh

Thanks guys! Josh