El Presidente

The best way to prime a motor is to turn just the oil pump and leave the rotating assembly alone. I'm not familiar with the EJ251's, as they were new when I was an auto machinist, but if they're pulley driven, put a socket on it and use an air ratchet or drill to turn it till pressure builds up. If they're distributor driven, just grind out a tool that fits in the end or the oil pump driveshaft and chuck it up in a drill. Just make sure you turn it the right way! I always use a cam break-in lube high in ZDDP on all the lobes too to protect the hardfacing, unless its a roller cam then I used standard assembly lube. Once I get it running at idle for a minute or two, I rev it up to 1500-2500rpm and back down again a couple times to get everything used to each other and then its good to go. If its a flat tappet motor like an EA81, you really need to rev it up and down or the lifters willn't turn developing a flat spot killing your cam soon down the road. As far as break-in manners, I go easy the first hundred miles, but after that I drive it like it will normally be driven. If its a DD, I drive it like a DD, if its a hot, fast ballzy motor, I don't hesitate to give it skinny pedal and open up the secondaries. Don't forget your oil changes too! Josh

By definition of words yeah, I suppose. By actual definition....no. Ford, Dodge Chevy, AMC, Subaru and everybody else call a locked center diff a part time system and has no reference to any other part of the system, like 2wd, or any other "option". Its called part time, because you can ONLY use it "part of the time"...only when in dirt, gravel, mud etc, not pavement. A full time/AWD system can be used all the time regardless of what your on. You can drive a rig in part time on the road, but its hard on the drivetrain, hops around and chirps in corners, but I've done it, by accident, by necessity and for stupid fun. Smaller tires, less aggressive or softer tread make it easier. Yes, I was hoping I would be able to select it out of 4wd, but after reading what Gloyale said, it dawned on me it would be stuck in 4wd, so my plan isn't going to work for me unless I drive it with the driveshaft pulled when on the road Thanks for the additional info about the D/R EJ boxes and the RX box! Josh

A 500cfm 2 barrel is HUGE for a 1.8 and is going to be more trouble than its worth. Some of the motorcraft 2 barrel carbs ford used flowed almost that much, like the bigger 2100's. I know Ford used 4160 holleys on some of the early mustangs, but those were 4 barrels and those flowed at least 500cfm. A holley 5200 is a basicly a weber clone, moving around 370cfm @3"Hg and its almost too big for a 1.8l. Do you have any pictures of your carb?

If you look up the definition of part time 4wd, it means the front and rear diffs are locked together on a 50/50 power slpit and has nothing to do with how, or weather or not, its selectable between 2wd and 4wd. AWD, Full time 4wd, All time 4wd, etc., all vary the torque split preventing torque bind making them safe to drive on pavement and perform better in snow and ice. My jeep has both full time and part time modes which I can unlock into 2wd..

Welding the center diff would make it a part time box by locking the front and rear diffs together, but it would be unselectable. Gloyale, thanks for the clarification on how the EA and EJ stuff interacts! Josh

Thanks for the reply! I wasn't planning on using the EA center diff, but instead, weld an EJ AWD center diff to make it PT and bolt it to the EA 5mt D/R, allowing me to use the EJ 4.44 pinion....maybe. 1. So EJ AWD center diffs/housings can not be swapped to EA D/R boxes? 2. Will EA AWD center diffs/housings bolt to EA D/R boxes allowing me to use an EJ pinion shaft? 3. So the only way to get a 4.44 gear set in a D/R 5mt is to cut and weld the pinion shaft? 4. Are D/R EJ AWD boxes available in the states? I've found conflicting info about this and any input is appreciated Josh

I think the board is a little slow because of holiday crap.. What holley are you planning on using? What are you using it for? I'm running a modified Holley 5200 off a 74' ford pinto on my ea82. I'm still working out bugs, but I'm happy with it. Josh

I'm curious, what platform is this lift for?

Is it possible to run a EJ ring and pinion in a EA box, without serious mods, by using the EJ tail section? Do the tail sections swap or are the bolt patterns/dimensions too different? I'd like to avoid having to shorten the pinion shaft and weld it back up. I'm hoping to build a PT, 1.59 D/R, 4.44 geared 5mt. It would be behind an EJ22 in a 87 GL wagon. I know Subaru made a D/R EJ 5mt, but I don't know if we got any stateside and I've read they got something like a 1.19 low range, but can be swapped for the EA 1.59. If I can get an EJ D/R trans, would that be the better way to go? My thought is to use a EA 5MT D/R box, Forester XT 4.44 R&P and a welded EJ viscous clutch/center diff tail section, making it a PT 4wd box. I'm assuming the EJ boxes are longer so I'd need a new/modified driveline and I'd also need to trim the ring gear to clear the 1.59 low range gear set. Would this work??? Josh

22 degrees is for an EA71 14 degrees is for a EA81 4" pipe is used for EA82 lifts and I don't think its as critical on EA81's because they mount differently. The strut blocks are the hardest part and shouldn't be rushed, if you screw this up your rig can have bad driving characteristics and possibly eat tires. Take your time and do your homework before cutting your material up. greentowtruck, On EA82's 15 degrees might give you a harsh positive chamber, but 17 degrees will give you zero chamber. I cut mine to 18 degrees to give it a little negative chamber and now it handles better than stock, even without a swaybar. Heres a thread on chamber angles and strut lift angles: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115780

Right on! Few questions first: What type of tranny are you running? You sound like you haven't wheeled very much so....when we go wheeling, we're not just driving down bumpy gravel roads, we're in the mud, rocks and stumps. We run on the same trails as the Jeeps do. Minor body scrapes and small dents are normal and major dents and other body damage might happen. You will probably occasionally break and axle, stub, driveline or other parts so you shouldn't be relying on your rig as a daily driver. We help each other out when things go wrong, so a "team" attitude is appreciated. Are you OK with all that? We're looking for active members, do you have enough interest/time to wheel at least every 2-3 months? The more the better! If your still on board, I'll talk to Jeff, maybe you could meet up with us this weekend or some other time that works. Josh

IIRC it goes to the drivers side valve cover

Dropping the rear diff shouldn't change the camber. Lifting it shouldn't change the rear camber either as long as its properly done. My rear blocks are at roughly 15-20 degrees and whatever lift you want is measure from center of the bolt holes. Chamber is adjusted at the trailing arm, not the shock location(unlike the front). Hope it helps

Your the only one that has spoken up about the adapter, so I assume its yours! Your gonna want 4" pipe for the spacers and I have 2x4x1/4" blocks under my 6" lift..we can help you with geometry and block angles too. It will be easier to explain it to you when we meet Saturday Josh

I found this thread that you may find interesting. Apparently the 4eat EJ transmission has been used offroad and if you want an auto it may be your best bet http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74789 We're not looking to push people away, but I think what counts you out isn't your automatic, but when you said your on the fence about the build and how you only want to get %90 of the places you want to. For this free lift, we're looking for somebody who's %100 in and wants to go %100 on the trails. We could probably help you out, but your going to have to do most the work and research yourself, its a involved build IIRC. If you do build an automatic up for offroad, don't keep it to yourself, I'd really like to see how it does. I'm not being sarcastic BTW. I've wheeled automatics(jeeps, not subarus) and manuals and they both do well when set up right. That being said lets please keep this thread on-topic, if someone wants to start another offroad automatic thread to discuss this more, please do! Thanks Josh

I thought you were going with a 4" lift? The "free lift" deal is more or less a "free stuff" deal, with help, to anybody who's really serious about building a rig and spending sometime offroad. So it sounds like the EJ adapter is taken!! Josh

Do you have an automatic transmission in it? Your gonna want one with a D/R 5 speed to be effective offroad.

I'll talk with Jeff, Subarus tend to gravitate towards him and he may have one he'd part with. Whats your budget for a car? Have you checked the "cars for sale section"? Welcome to the forum BTW! Josh

Yes the hayden thermo switch isn't tied to the old 203F switch at all. Its its own unit. The fan I used is small enough, I really think I could have got it in there with the condenser. Yeah the spring is a little half-rump roast, but it works. I put it on whatever I could to get the tension I wanted, I like a stiff gas pedal. I'll figure something out permanent later. Thanks! Your BumbleBeast is a pretty sweet ride, especially after that 2" lift! Josh

ScottinBellingham's red GL sedan he took up to Walker on the last wheeling trip has something like 27's on the front and 32-33's on the back. Hes running a straight axle in back off a toyota and the gearing works. I don't know details on it though, but its a show stopper, it climbs hills like a squirrel on crack!

X2, all you answers are in the Offroad section. Where are you located? NW Washington Offroad is always looking for new members

If its done right, I think its safe. I have 29's on 15" nissan wheels and they see full on offroad trails, freeway speeds and town driving with zero problems. I've never heard of any problems either on drilled hubs or drilled wheels. Look in the offroad section for threads on how its done. Take your time and do it right, those of us who have lost wheels(for other reasons) on the road know how much it sucks

You could try Redline, but your going to have to drill and tap the carb bung to put it in. Doing this, your treading in f'd up carb territory...if your hell bent on a fuel return, get a FPR with a return line on it. You don't need one at all though, and it really isn't going to help anything...seriously. Its just going to cost money and you'll get the same MPG's and performance. Some of the later Weber DF's(76ish+) on Pintos, Vega's and I think the Gremlins had fuel returns, but they also had emissions too with carbon canisters and all that crap.

Heres my setup, sorry it took so long: Closeup of the 3647 hayden fan controller Little further back, the loose blue wire is for the aux. fan and the green is for the A/C override..both of which I obiously haven't hooked up. You can also see the probe for sensing the temperature in the very bottom, center of the pic, a little silver tube thing with grey wires..Yes I lost my oil filler cap:banghead: As much clearance as you can get for working on the front of the motor Because the fan is in front of the radiator I tried using a EA81 fan on mine, but because I lifted it 6+" it wouldn't fit. The studs for the old fan aren't a problem with no fan there!

dupli-color truck bed liner is all that comes to mind. It will come off eventually, in a couple months to a couple years because the quality isn't that great. Its in a can though.