El Presidente

It shouldn't be spun at all..the struts have bearings in them for turning, but the strut block doesn't rotate. All your doing is moving the strut mount down 4" using a 17* angle, because the strut mount is at 17* degrees from horizon. Its important that the angle points straight towards the center of the rig so you don't have a change in castor. Castor isn't adjustable, so if you get it wrong, your stuck with it. Take your time with your strut blocks and understand what your doing and how it affects your suspension, like I said earlier, the struts blocks are the hardest part. If its too much for you to deal with, used blocks come up for sale, or you can buy them new. I used 4" dia. schedule 40 grade B pipe for my strut blocks and 1/4" plate for my tops and bottoms. Because I went with a 18* instead of a 17*, I had to massage the inside of the towers with a baby sledge, but I'm %100 happy with the results.

Deep snow tires are a grey area, because snow can vary so much. You said deep snow....are you offroading in it or are you mostly on road(like wha tthe tires you linked to are for)? What do you call deep snow? 6"...1'...10'... Is the snow your planning on running in wet or powdery and dry? Is the snow compacted by other vehicles or are you plowing through fresh stuff? How cold are we talking about? tires behave very differently in 30 degree than in -30 degree weather based on tread composition. I generally prefer a good mud terrain for fresh snow like a cooper STT, BFG Mudd Terrain KM or a maxxis bighorn. Size can make all the difference too. Wide high flotation tires get up on top and allow you to traverse many many feet, but skinnier tires have a smaller foot print and do better on harder snow because the load isn't distributed.

Did you recheck your cam timing?

I'll be there too!

Thanks again! It was good to meet you and Dan and I'm looking forward to meeting more board members too. Hopefully we get a stronger showing on the next run.. lol..Bent trees Jeff, bent trees

I had a great time Jeff! I was also surprised at how well Lightfoot did, and now I'm looking forward to the next run! I need to get those trail pics from you sometime too.. Thanks -Josh

I'll be there I'll be looking to sit shotgun somewhere. My rig still isn't trail ready, but I'm fine going up to Walker, just no trails for me yet. - Josh

Thanks! What time is everybody showing up?

Right on, unless something comes up I can't get out of, count me in! Where/when are you guys meeting at? Yeah, I love living in conway...a town with a grain silo as the tallest building, is my kinda town:grin: Where can I get a discovery pass?

I'd love to go, but I still need a skid pan for my rig. Its getting done soon, but not soon enough! Anybody need a spotter? If my rig isn't ready, I'll ride shotgun for anyone who needs an extra set of eyes/push/pull/shoveling abilities

Yes, cut your strut blocks/tubes to 17 degrees for no camber change on an EA82. I cut mine to 18 degrees to compensate for the 1" suspension lift and add a bit of negative camber. The strut blocks are the hardest part and require the most thought, if you get things wrong, the castor and/or the chamber can be different one side to the other or be the same, but in a direction you don't want. Don't copy the first one exactly..I made two left strut tubes and had to tear one apart to make it a right hand

X2, Factory spec is positive. When I lifted my GL, I thought I'd adjust the camber and castor angle. I cut my lifts blocks at 18 degrees instead of 17 to bring the strut tops in to decrease camber. It worked great! at 6" of lift the front tires sit just a tiny bit negative and it really helps in the corners especially with no sway bar. I adjusted the castor angle by extending my radius rods 1.25". It helps high speed road manners and makes it center real nice, it also helps me clear my 30" mudders. I run my toe slightly out, because like most FWD cars, the bushings in the radius rods compress slightly when the front wheels get power bringing the toe back in. Might want to consider a new alignment guy. I do all my own alignment work and its not hard. It just takes a little addition, subtraction and patience. You need a smooth floor or concrete slab to get it right too. My GL rides better lifted than it did at stock height on stock wheels!

It wasn't helpful?..found this and a bunch of useful links in a couple seconds: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104935

Its an issue of reliability and ease of field repair to me especially in dirty/abusive enviroments, not fear or lack of knowledge. I have no problem working on an assortment of EFI, mechanical injected and carb'd cars and trucks. I went to EFI and learned where it belongs and where carbs do..Maybe you fear or have lack of knowledge about carbs?! I love fuel injection for DD, but not for anything on the trail or for longrange use. With proper maintenance, carbs are more reliable...fewer parts, a lot less to zero wiring, regulates fuel by using gravity, barometric air pressure and manual fine tuning, and the entire fuel distribution system can be torn down and serviced with a screw driver and a pair of pliers on the trail.. In general, EFI systems have it in every category though, power, mpg's/efficiency, ability to adapt on the fly, lack of maintenance etc. The OP said the wiring freaked him out, so I offered a good option. Carbs aren't for everyone...

Running a carb is an option on an EJ22, thats what I'm planning on doing when I swap. I don't trust EFI systems, carbs will run forever with proper maintenance.

Leave the fixed/new hosed plugged in a find why its running rough. You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere on the other end of that replaced vacuum hose.. IIRC fusible links can be bought new, I can't remember where, but JY's are a great source!

Im running a EA82 1.8L, and my 30x9.50's measure out to JUST under 29". I know the 2.5's on the state side, had/have problems with head gaskets among other things(they have a reputation as being a POS), thats why everyone installs 1st generation EJ 2.2's instead. They produce twice as much power(hp and torque) as the EA82, and have half the problems. From what I have read the only two wise moves are: delta cams or an EJ22 swap(not an EJ2.5)...I'm doing the EJ22 hopefully soon.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=High+altitude+Weber+jetting

Final gearing is the gears in the diffs. I believe 1.59 is the lowest low range you can get, but somebody on here put 4.11 final drives in with a lot of welding and machining. If you really want to lower your gears, get a tranfercase. How big are you planning on going? I'm running 30x9.50's on my GL, and it does fine on and off road. I can also roast tires in 2lo and right now its my DD A 5.20 final would be sweet, but axles would probably explode if you got on it..

http://www.indysworld.com/decals/ Welcome to the USMB!

Thanks subaruguru! Is that a stock Subaru radiator? I like how it fits behind most of the motor so carb adjustments and general motor work doesn't require moving the radiator everytime...How do you fill your system? it looks like your filler neck is on the bottom side. My only guess is that you need to lift it out to fill it and then reinstall it sealed up.

Don't bother with the EA82T, if you do a search here you'll find hundreds of threads about its problems. The EJ22 swap is much better and produces more power. Do a search for this too, theres several people here running ej22's in there EA82 bodys using both the stock EJ22 EFI system and also some with weber carbs. SJR makes adapter plates to bolt an EJ right onto an EA82 tranny along with modified flywheels. Always search first:grin: Welcome to the USMB!

Are you giving the gas pedal a pump before starting it? If the choke is too tight and you don't pump the pedal(which resets the choke mechinism when cold), than it may start, but when you hit the petal the choke plates will slam shut and suffocate the motor. These motors don't really require to much choking, especially in the summer. Set the choke so it restricts 1/2 to 1/3 of the openings in the carb when its cold, and adjust from there...I make a mark on the choke housing to indicate how far I've adjusted it and also mark an arrow to show which way is tighter, then I leave it a little firm enough to not move, but loose enough that if you grab a firm hold of it, you can twist it. As you go to work, errands etc., you can quickly adjust it to get it dialed in. Don't forget to tighten all the screws when you find the right setting.

Any pics?

Once I searched for "reclined" radiator mount, I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10375 Really clean and functional, I'm really considering this now! Anybody else try this?