El Presidente

I'd wait on the oil pan, I've heard they can be a real SOB. Here's a thread with the OEM parts numbers for most of the seals. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41172&highlight=pump+seals+part+number I called my local Subaru dealer and got all the seals and o-rings, minus the HG's and oil pan gasket, for $80. I think that part #806718090 - oil pump seal, Isn't really needed, because from what I understand, if you need one, you may as well get a new pump. I'm talking about the shaft seal to clarify. Also, the "mickey mouse' oil pump seal #14066AA000 is one number off....I can't exactly remember which one, but I think its #15066AA000, your parts dealer will be able to straighten it out. If you have problems getting the cam tower seal(which is RTV) to properly seal, you can get 5mm o-ring rubber by ft/roll to fit in there for a oil tight fit, I haven't done it, but search for details if you like. I searched online and found a few local sources that have it for fairly cheap.

Check this out, post #7 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1524138 This guy got a weber on a Suzuki to pass emissions and assuming it is a samuri he's talking about, it probably has a 1.8L. Although a completely different animal, the size is the same and is a sign of hope. I think my buddy got his 22r toyota pickup to pass, but I can't remember %100. If your rig was a california car, it probably already has a bung for an O2 sensor which you could moniter fuel ratio from using a home made Air/fuel meter(or a professional one). You can really dial things in with one of these and they also work as you drive. Heres how: http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html Lachlan: The black liquid is probably water mixed with carbon soot from when it was running rich, which is probably nothing to sweat. A little water(not antifreeze) out the tail pipe is normal:grin:

Yup , your running rich if you smell gas, although you should look for leaking carbon canister hoses or loose tank vents too. I cant really recommend any site or page in particular on Weber tuning. I learned from old High Performance Weber and Clymer manuals, and lots of experience. So just keep on Google and you'll find good pages. I recently put a DFAV(Holley's Weber clone used on early fords) on my GL and needed a "refresher" on emulsion tubes...I found lots of info and many guys asking the same questions as me in several sources, for many cars. I can't help you much with cats, I have much more experience taking them off, or punching them through, than fixing them. Take your time in learning how your carb works, knowing your system means you'll be able to diagnose damn near any problem in a couple minutes. Chicks dig guys with skills:grin:

Very nice....I like the hybrid exo!! Have you leaned it on trees? What size is that? I've got tube fenders and sliders in future plans for my GL. I know what size to use on my Jeep, but I don't need that much weight on my GL and it also weights 1,500 lbs. less than my Jeep. Welcome to the USMB:grin:

This is a common problem on the Redline Air Cleaner kit and the elements aren't K&N filters either, they're cheap chinese knock-offs..seriously, they're not real K&N's. The real K&N's don't bend in like this and the filter element doesn't wave in the seal. Some of the local circle track guys that run Webers bend a piece of coat hanger around to line the inside and hold it out. Just bending the crap out of it in the direction it needed to go worked for me. Some come really F'd up and some have a slight curve. Using the taller element really helps too, the 1 7/8" tall one is too small for a 1.8L, if you ask me. When you mash the skinny, it can become a restriction and create a vacuum pulling it in. I like the modded stock air cleaner ettev!

Probably need to re-seal you oil pump, and most likely don't need to replace it, just re-seal. Its not too hard to re-seal once you get the plastic covers off, which can stay off permanently. You can get the seals from any subaru dealer and they're not expensive at all. Check the writeup section, I think there's one in there on how to do this. Leaks could be a couple other things too, like cam seals, cam tower seals(RTV) and valve covers...or all of them. I'd start with the oil pump and go from there.

What year/what tranny? I learned recently learned the 5MT's aren't designed to go into 1st while rolling which made me happy because I thought my 1st gear syncro was shot. If you got a broken clutch cable, you still can get around by disabling any neutral start switch and starting it in 1st, then "syncro matching" to up shift. Don't down shift though, for that matter, don't ever down shift unless you really need the braking power, just shift to neutral and apply the brake.

If your learning how to tune a carb, you've picked one of the hardest to learn so don't get discouraged. Once you master a Weber, any carter, rochester, or holley will be a peice of cake. I suggest learning what each circuit and jet does and how it affects other parts of the carb. Figure out the emulsion tubes last, because you need to understand how the system works together to under stand emulsion tubes. Google will help a lot. Theres lots of writeups on how to tune a 32/36, but my piece of advice on tuning is, that the motor will just run plain happy when you got it right. It will sound even and balanced(for a Subaru), idle smooth, have good fast power right off the line and the exhaust will have a rounded, slightly sweet smell. Smell your exhaust by diverting about 1/3 to 1/2 of the exhaust stream up with your hand and smell it about 18" away from the diversion. You want it to mix with air so you don't get to much exhaust. If it burns your nose, your lean. If you smell gas your rich. Use your other hand(the one not adjusting) and put it somewhere safe on the motor to feel it run too. Listen to your motor and it will tell you how its doing. When adjusting the air fuel mix, I snap the throttle really fast(REALLY FAST) with my hand...you want it to rev up with no delay..instant power...no bog down then rev up, no stumble, just power. Advice like listening to your motor, feeling it and smelling the exhaust sounds a little like some zenish, hippie bonding love crap, but it works good. Right now, I'm running at 12* advanced and I've been meaning to bump it up more, but I've been lazy. I usually advance timing until I just hear detonation when lugging hard, then back it off 3*or so, depending on the motor. Running your timing might help with emissions, but when learning, go for optimum efficiency and power. Before swapping to smaller jets, know what your doing. If you jet to small, not only will performance suffer, but you can melt a piston too. Once again, don't get discouraged. Once you figure it out, you'll have a skill that is dying off and others will give you beer to tune their rigs:grin:

Yeah, your way off. I've heard 32/36 webers can be really hard to get to pass emissions. They're designed for performance, not emissions. Give it a tune up for starters. Can you lean it out? at 2400 RPM you might still be in the idle circuit. Is your EGR system hooked up? That will affect high rpm emmisions If you are running in the main circuit at 2400 RPM, bigger air correctors will make your main circuit kick in later making it run off your idle circuit at higher RPM's, but you might develop a dead spot right were you need to test. If your running ethanol free gas, put some ethanol gas in it. Shade tree method is to put denatured alcohol from home depot in the tank just for testing..I think %30 ethanol to gasoline is the right mix. I can't recommend it though because I've never done it. Theres stuff you can buy at Napa that you put in your tank to pass its guaranteed too, but I think its just straight ethanol. If you can afford the time and material to put a stock carb on, just to pass, you could do that. A lot of guys in CA just swap to there horrible stock setups to pass and then put it back in the box and go back to a good carb and no cat for the rest of the year. Try to find a "work around". It can get you in trouble doing these methods, so continue with caution. -Can you register it at a relatives/buddies house in an area that doesn't test? some state only require testing within city limits or urban areas. -Its 31 years old, can you get collector plates? Some state don't require testing on collector vehicles, but also say you can't daily driver them...who's really gonna watch your odometer?...worst case, you just disable the odometer so it doesn't work. You may also be exempt from tabs too. -Can you find a sketchy testing location or grease some palms? If it costs you $250 to swap to a stock carb to pass and you can slide the testing guy $200, or better $100, to pass you, why not, this is also done in CA to pass emissions as well as other states. If they work for the state, be careful though. Get the full test next time even if there's gas rolling out the tail pipe, it will give you a base line to tweek things from to pass Good luck

I tried tugging, hitting, shifting back forth and calling it names....Maybe I had a steering wheel from hell, the heat from the torch also melted my turn signal plate, but I pulled the wheel to replace the column, so it wasn't a problem. It was seriously on there and didn't want to move!

Nope, the vapor recovery system is purely for emmisions reasons also and has no positive affect on MPG's. IIRC the EPA found out gasoline vapors contribute to smog, that's also why you see the springy seals around nozzles at gas pumps..to recover gas fumes. Ironically a lot of these emmision devices(and additives, like ethanol in gasoline) cause lower MPG's and can be the reason for many running issues, thus also lowering MPG's even more. The amount of vapors that do escape from the tank fill are very, very small and they are vented outside were fumes are almost never noticed. On a vapor recovery system the fumes are burned, but just to get rid of them. Running a vapor recovery system on a car no longer designed for it(..weberized anything) could lead to intermittent lean or rich air fuel mix problems. If you get rid of both, you'll have less problems, more MPG's and a better running motor thats easier to tune.

How does Allmetal hold up to gasoline? I've been unimpressed with JB weld for carb repairs/mods that are in direct contact. Idasho: Looks good!

If you seal the vapor return line there is no gas smell, period. For years and years cars didn't have vapor return lines or carbon canisters and if you smelled gas, something was wrong. Having a carbon canister means you have a greater chance of a gas smell because of all the vapor lines that can leak. No vapor recovery=no vapors. I've never had problems with vapor lock and I don't see why you would, all the fuel lines are a ways away from any serious heat...On my GL anyway. The EGR system does slightly cool combustion temps, but not by alot and certainly not enough to be concerned about. What it does do is reduce the effective displacement of the motor by running inert gas through it at cruise. It does this for emmisions reasons. Making the motor pump inert gas reduces its efficiency/MPG's and power. Its not a huge difference, but every little bit helps. I pull the EGR systems on all my rigs because all they do is cause idle problems and reduce power and efficiency. The idle problems they cause is from when they get full of crap and don't shut at idle, if you let it go they eventually completely clog and stop working smoothing your idle back out. Just cut the EGR tube and weld a bolt in the remaining pipe fitting and put a plate on each head to block off the EGR ports. You can leave the valve off, because once those 3 holes are sealed, your good By removing both, all your doing is simplifying the motor and making it more like what a Weber is designed for, efficiency and power.

Can you just plug the return and vapor line to the fuel tank? Then you can just ditch the whole vapor recovery/carbon canister system. Thats what I did on my GL. You'll need to run a vented gas cap though($3 at autozone), so the tank doesn't hold vacuum or pressure. If you don't have $3, just tear off a peice of the rubber seal on the cap so it can breath. I also yanked my EGR system to prevent idle issues and improve top-end performance.

IIRC 85-86 and back doesn't need a puller, just take the nut/washers off and pull the wheel off. 87 and on does and my 87 was so hard to pull one of the bolts that the puller uses, pulled the threads out of the hub. I was able to sneek a nut behind the hub, re-applied some pressure and used a little heat from a torch....boom! the steering wheel flew off into the drivers seat:eek: My 85 came right off with a sharp tug I'd be surprised if the slop is in the steering wheel splines, but I'd find it before you go cruising down the road Welcome to the USMB:grin:

http://pure-gas.org/ Click on your state at the bottom to get a list of locations for ethanol free gas. Instant 3-5MPG increase! Briankk: Before pulling your lifters, try seafoaming the motor, if that doesn't work, replace the oil pump seals. If the oil pump has new seals and the TOD is still there, THEN pull the lifters. Sometimes the TOD can be caused by stuck valve in the cam sprayers too. If your tranny is overfilled, its creating excessive drag which doesn't help at all. Bad O2 sensors can make for bad MPG's so I'd check that too.

Yeah, to remove the ignition lock, which is held on by two shear bolts, you use a chisel and its actually really easy. They're very soft metal, they're not on tight and don't need abuse to get them off. If your just going after the switch, you can leave the shear bolts and ignition lock alone. The ignition switch just pulls off of the back of the ignition lock, once you get all the steering column plastic off. Have you checked the battery terminals and starter connections? Probably the #1 reason for intermittent start problems is bad connections. Welcome to USMB

Rear Wheel Bearings: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226 Theres a lot of good write ups in the USMB Repair manual.

A 10mm deep socket on a 3/8" u-joint with a couple extensions makes that part easy:grin: Theres also a hook in the center of the dash that it rests on that makes removal/installion easier. Just lift it off and the whole thing comes right off once the bolts are out.

I've run a lot of tires over the years and theres a lot of tires that compete with the BFG A/T and most beat it hands down. BFG puts Baja Champion on all their stuff and in my experience, the BFG A/T makes a great road tire in the PNW and thats it. BFG A/T are a good "do it all" tire down south like So Cal, but up here they cake up with any mud or wet soil and act like slicks. The Cooper STT has it beat in EVERY category except road ability. Cooper STT's have a stronger carcass and sidewalls and they also have side lugs which the BFG A/T doesn't...like a street tire. BFG A/T's are cheap for a reason, you get what you pay for. My .02 on BFG A/T's

For a "do it all" tire in the PNW, you can't get better than sipped Cooper STT's. They're sold as a mud terrain, but they're more of an aggressive all terrain with really good road manners. They don't cake up in mud and self clean easily, do well in the rocks and gravel, they're not too loud on the road and they last a long time. When sipped, I'm surprised how well they do on compact snow and ice.

I recently took the dash and interior(the whole thing) from a 85 GL and put it in a 87 GL and on both, the dash duct/vents come off with the dash. Its all one unit.

X2... Can a GL tow 4,000lb ? Yes, I've seen it Could a Gl manuever a 4,000 trailer at highway speeds? Absolutely NO No one has mention Gross Trailer Weight Rating! It much more important the the tongue weight! The heavier the trailer AND cargo, the more its going to kick you around when driving and I have seen a RV pull a fullsize truck right off the freeway and into the grass, just because the RV hit a pot hole and started to sway. If theres still a tag on your boat(it came with one) its usually on the transom next to where the motor mounts or in the pilot house if you have one. If its not there, have a buddy tow your boat over a truck scale. I've only used ones around me that are closed, but just pull on the pad, and look through the window. You willn't get in trouble, your tax dollars paid for it.

Gotcha! Well if you use Duracool to get your system back up, please post back some results! I'm curious how it behaves in a subaru

R12A is just known as Duracool and theres thread after thread on the Jeep forums on its use and performance. R12A is propane/butane based IIRC. Its one of the "mixes" of refrigerants I was talking about and has nothing to do with R12. R12a/Duracool one of the better "mixes", and people I've talked to have said its a little better than 134a. I'm not sure its DOT approved(never stopped me!), but another good one mentioned in that forum is Freeze12. Freeze12 is 134a based and performs similair to 134a. They'll work, but if you enjoyed real R12, it'll never get that cold again:( I gave up on fixing A/C systems, reconditioned parts are low quality and I have been completely spoiled with R12. All my vehicles...Jeeps/Trucks/now cars(my GL) are all wheelers, zombie survival rigs, and DD's, so A/C compressors get turned into air compressors for tire air and air tools and when I need to cool down I take the doors off and/or take my Jeep for a swim:cool: If you really need A/C in Wa. , good luck - its a PITA