El Presidente

Stay with R12 if you can! R12 is great stuff and its still available in the states and is still produced in large numbers over seas. You can take an open book course online for $20(takes about 20 min too) and be certified so you can buy it yourself, right here in the states, but the stuff is expensive. sorry, I don't have the link anymore, but when I was looking, I found a couple sites that offer legit certification. The R12 sustitutes are just a mixure of other refrigerants and are usually 135a based. The other refrigerants and additives help keep to deal with the mineral oil PAG issue, but they're really not the right way to do it...but they work. Downgrading(it is a downgrade) to R134a is an option($$$), but keep in mind R134a is going to be outlawed for consumer use, just like R12....I think in 2016.. So if you downgrade to R134a, you willn't have refill options in a few years!! R134a's cooling effiecency is roughly %12-15 less than R12. Running R134a in a system designed for R12 can also cause you compressor to fry early, because 134a is harder to cycle. The EPA has admitted that R134a isn't a viable solution to R12, and damn near every HVAC guy agrees. There are a couple options that work great, aren't harmful to the planet and cool as effecently as R12(and is compatible with a R12 system), but none are DOT approved. I've heard of guy using propane or butane and it works great, theres only a tiny amount there so its not really a fire hazard(enough for a poof). Be aware too that buying R12 or any other refrigerant that required certification, without both buyer and seller certified can be jail time and a huge fine. I've never heard of anybody getting pinched, but be aware of what your doing. my .02

The ECU should handle better air flow and bigger exhaust, but if you pull the O2 sensor, your gonna put it in limp mode and it will run like crap. Welding on a O2 bung doesn't take too much to do, especially if you can weld yourself. Your loss of low end power could be because of the bigger exhaust, but I'd fix the O2 sensor before making any more assumptions. Do you have pics of your exhaust? I thought about turning the exhaust tubes straight up right behind the head, which would go right into two cherry bombs and exit out the hood..Is that what you did?

Still looking? I got a couple 2wd rear shocks in the FS section that should give you 1.5-2" lift in the rear

I don't consider a clutch fan %100 reliable at all simply because theres nothing physically connecting the fan to the water pump. I've had clutch fans go out far from home and its a pain in the @ss, because it can be hard to diagnose. When ever I've done an electric fan upgrade, I make sure theres redundancies to prevent a complete failure. All my fan upgrades used two fans on separate thermal switches and timers and were independently controlled from each other with a manual override for each. I also made sure that the vehicle can run on one fan and doesn't need both to stay cool under normal conditions so if I lose one, I can still make it home. Parasitic power loss is just cages horses and if you don't want to let them out, thats up to you. There isn't a ton of drag in a clutch, but little mods here and there certainly add up. I agree though that its give or take either way, just depends on what your needs and priorities are. Now a fan with NO clutch IS %100 reliable, but the fan needs to be designed for it. I've tried just removing the fan clutch on one of my old trucks and I had to crank the curb idle up just to keep it running. Sounded like a hurricane under the hood and the motor never really warmed up.

Gottcha:grin: I've run perma-cool fans on drag cars when I was younger, just give'em a call and describe to them what you have going and they'll set you up, but it's $$$. I usually use JY fans on offroad rigs(which is all I build anymore), because they tend to give out when subjected to constant dirt and abuse and I don't like dropping $150+ bucks when something that costs $20 does the same thing. I used to have a link that described CFM and amp draw of stock fans, but I lost it a while ago. I know a couple EA82 guys have used a EA81 fan where the mech. fan is and left, or installed, a EA82 A/C fan on the passenger side. That gets you two electric subaru fans, but its a tight fit from what I hear. If your looking in the JY, look for small to midsized cars with cramped engine bays and lots of accesories, like A/C. Early 90's Dodge Neons w/ A/C move a ton of air and each fan pulls about 22amps after startup IIRC. They have spiral blades to reduce noise too. Theres not a lot of room in a subaru, so you might want to consider a pusher fan that would mount in front of the radiator. If you like the look, louvered hood vents can really help cool your motor too. I've personally seen under hood temps drop 40 degrees and coolant temps drop 15-17 degrees witht he addition of a couple hole in the hood.

Ok, I thought you didn't like the noise of the electric fan....Fan Clutches shouldn't make any noise at all, so if yours is, just get a new one or upgrade to electric. Noisy clutches eventually just stop working so beware, especially on a ea82T.. What links do you need? Your sentence got censored out.

I can't make heads or tails about what you wrote Your grammar is making things difficult, new to the States? This is a common procedure and is covered in any haynes manual, which you can get at napa, autozone, carquest etc. and it explains everything, step by step. There might be a writeup too on how to change timing belts, do a search and see what you find.

You should have the tensioner moved out of the way(set real loose), so just release the belt tensioner and then tighten the two bolts that hold it on. Thats it, your done. The tensioner does all the work for you. Sometimes tensioner springs get tired, but replacements are available.

If you do it right, electric fans will be better for ANY situation. If your concerned with noise, that isn't your fan clutch unless its squeaking, which means they're dying. The noise has to do with the shape and attack angle of your fan blades. The ones that spiral out are generally the most effiecient and the most quiet. The ones with the square blades make more noise, but move about the same air. Nothings free including HP. When you put an electric fan in, your just moving the drag from the fan clutch to the alternator. The HP and performance gains are made in the better efficiency of the alternator and fans. The more air it moves per amp the more efficient it is. If you put too much strain on the alternator you can see less HP and performance. Everytime I've ditched clutch fans, I've upgraded alternators. To be on the safe side, for a constant running fan, you want at least 30 amps over stock. Not all alternators are created equal either, different models "switch on" at different RPM's and different models have different power curves. I'm planning on putting a 140amp CS-144 in my rig. They produce a lot of amps at low RPMs...IIRC 70amps at around 700-800 RPM

Electric fans are better than a mechanical fan clutch hands down...your not using a big enough fan or not enough of them. Fan clutches create a lot of parasitic power loss and switching to a electric fan will usually increase throttle response, and depending on the fan and alternator, you may see an increase in HP and MPG's. The big advantage is controllability...you can set exactly when your fan comes on based on coolant temp, not air temp. You can set them for low, med and hi settings, manually click them on when you want, set a "delay off" so they keep running even thought the car is off, and if you have two fans, you can make them operate independently. Sticking with the mechanical clutch fan is the safest route, but not the best. Also, if your an offroad guy, you can turn your fans off before fording deep water so your fan blades don't get sucked into the radiator. Buddy of mine did this on his ranger a couple weeks ago in about 3' of water.

My 87 GL was two teeth off on the drivers side cam when I got it and it barely could hold an idle and only ran when warm, but it ran, sorta... I've accidently installed belts one tooth off and it will idle and drive down the road, but it will be pretty gutless. Just recheck your work and you'll probably see whats going on.

took me a minute to figure that one out! I always do a pre-highway inspection to avoid that. I've been surprised to find bent control arms, rocks and sticks in springs and radiators, missing mirrors and mud flaps and recently, a bent tie rod I didn't even feel till I hit the pavement. Check things like mud covered license plates and lights too, unless its a trailer king..gotta keep the staters happy

Glad I could help:banana: I forgot to add for anyone else reading, that if you coat your fender wells, a light spray of PAM cooking oil will make mud release really easy, preventing the "mud buddy"(the 150-200 lbs of mud that sticks to underbody parts and fender wells when in the mud pits) Do not put PAM inside your rig, you will regret it.

Unfortunately theres no right answer: Turning it in, leans the mix, out will richen it, but....the best setting depends on the motor its on, outside temps, elevation and fuel being used(Ethonal free gasoline will get you better MPG's, because it runs better on a leaner setting compared to ethanol gas) 1 1/4 or less turns out is lean for the carb, meaning the fuel mix screw is compensating for over jetting(jets too big). Over 2 1/4 turns out means the fuel mix screw is compensating for to small jets or a vacuum leak. The fuel mix screw is the fine adjustment for the idle curcit which is whats used up to around 2,400-3,000 rpm(which depends on air correctors and emulsions tubes). How you drive can also be a factor on where the screw should be. I personally adjust to the leanest setting that gets a smooth idle, then back it off slightly to help performance. I couldn't tell you exactly how much I back the screw off, because I don't know. I've been working on carbs so long I shut my eyes to hear better, put my hand on the motor for feel and go off what the motor tells me. It sounds like magic, but once you stop thinking and listen to the motor, you can find that spot where its just plain happy. Snap the throttle quickly open(I mean quick!) when enrichening after finding the best lean idle too. You want a responsive fast rev up that doesn't lag, or bog down when the throttle is snapped. I also smell the exhaust by putting my hand into the exhaust stream coming from the tail pipe to divert SOME exhaust to my nose(don't put your face in front of the tail pipe OK), your not gonna get high, so don't over do it, just a smell. If it burns your nose and smells light and "dry" your lean, if it smells heavy and of course like gasoline, your rich. I describe a good mix as well balanced, with a slight round smell, a very slight hint of gas that almost smells sweet. I might be getting old, but trying to describe years of experience can hard. Just don't run it too lean though....You can get awesome MPG's on some carters if you run them real lean at a high idle(I've seen 25-28MPG's on old 60's V8's), but you'll also get detonation, and eventually melted pistons and missing rods..I've seen it.

^I like this puller^ The only thing I like beating on is my wongleflute and that gets annoying too, my tool to remedy that has 2 big Jugs, 1 nice can, and a little tuna shute

I have no experience putting bedliner in a Subaru, partly because I'm still building my subaru for offroad, but I do have experience lining the inside and outside of Jeeps. It works great! Couple things to remember: prep is key! Not properly sanding/scuffing the application surface or not properly cleaning it will make it peel off in a couple months to a couple years. If you do it right, it will be a nightmare to remove(experience speaking) and provide a non-slip, durable finish for ever. If done outside, this will be the last paint job your rig will ever see, if done inside, you can put carpet over it with no problem. If you talk to people who had problems with Herc. or Duraback, its because of bad prep, not the product. Kill any rust with POR-15 first, if you just coat it with bedliner, your just ignoring the problem and it will come back to bit you. RUST NEVER SLEEPS! Putting it on You can use a normal paint roller, brush of any size, or if you have a big job, like the entire inside of a rig, a drywall texture hopper(Harbor freight has them for cheap) I like using a roller to spread it, and then dab it with a 4+" wide by 1+" thick brush. Some cheap chip brushes help with the little areas and can be throw away after each coat. Cleaning tools from this stuff sucks..consider throwing everything away when your done. Don't put it on to thick The first layer will be almost transparent and look like crap and is more of a primer coat. The second, and if you can more coats(I usually do 3 minimun) will show the final finish and give a durable enough coat. Put extra layers in areas that will get more heat, sound and wear from foot traffic, like in floor boards, toe boards, above mufflers and in wheel wells. Complete cleaning can be a challenge The final surface is rough, but not sharp, its more lumpy, like hills and valleys. Sometimes those little valleys cling onto dirt, especially if theres a lot of clay in it. Pressure washing can help or a stiff bristle brush, but is not horrible, whats left behind after a good hose washing is the very fine bits and isn't too noticable. This is a function over form deal, and if looks are at the top of your list, you probably shouldn't be offroad anyway. Its easy to repair! Although its hard to do, I have seen rocks gouge lines in a bedlined Jeep, but this always has gone along with a narly dent in a fender. If this happens, clean the area around the gouge with soap and water and a bristle brush, grind the area with a 60 grit sanding disc in an angle grinder and then clean with Xylene(Home Depot, Lowes has it..its common) and then put fresh bedliner over the ground out area with as many coats as the original....good as new Safety Meeting: Xylene is nasty stuff and contact with the skin should be avoided, its horrible on the liver, brains and kidneys. I prefer to kill those with booze:grin:. Seriously though, the vapors are actually absorbed through the membrane in your eyes too, so do this outside and use a fan for ventilation if needed. If you eyes are burning, your taking it in. A simple charcoal painting mask(used for oil based painting, also available at HD and Lowes) can seriously reduce intake through your lungs. Respirators are best, but masks work OK. Be aware of sources of ignition too, don't smoke, and extinguish pilot lights if near by. Body mods prior to application If applying inside, you'll be able to take a garden hose or pressure washer and seriously clean the inside of your rig. If this sounds like something you want, go to a marine supply store and get some quick release rubber plugs used to seal hull drains and find some washers they fit in. Cut a hole slightly bigger than the ID of the washer at the lowest point int he floor and weld the washer over the hole. I like to use washers for a 1 1/2" or bigger bolt and a rubber plug that fits good, 1 1/2" is the bare minimum because your gonna be passing mud, and a lot of water. Now when you get back from wheeling and the inside is full of sticks, mud and rocks, you just open your drains and wash away. This gets funny looks sometimes when people see your rig pissing like a horse. They also work good for draining water after deep water fording, as well as letting water in when fording so you don't float(usually only a problem if your door seals are good) Which Brand to use I absolute DO NOT recommend duplicolor bedliner, its too rubbery and lacks the body strength for anything that sees moderate/light use. Its for looks only. It doesn't absorb sound, heat and isn't as non-slip as a other bedliners, it sucks. Its thin too. Stuff like Linex and Rino liner are the best, but not all of us have $2,000+ dollars to throw around. Most popular bedliners like this are an epoxy and are applied at high temps to make it cure right....not something that can be done at home. The stuff I use is a Xylene suspended polyeurathane based coating that has bits of recycled tires in it and I can only recommend two names, which are basicly the same in composition. Herculiner and Duraback Herculiner can be found at most autoparts stores for $80 a gallon, or $30 a quart. Its a available in 4 colors Red, White, Grey and Black. Duraback is a trusted coating mostly for marine applications and runs $90 a gal. for non uv-protected and $120 gal. for UV-protected, no quart sizes are available, but it comes in a wide range of colors. Both product last about a year after opened, but can very slightly in color from can to can. Follow the directions on tack up time between coats too When ever I coat a XJ/Cherokee, inside or out, I get two gallons and have extra for repairs. CJ's need less, a gallon is usually enough. One gallon may be enough on a subaru, but I can't say for certain..I'd get two. http://durabakcompany.com/ http://www.herculiner.com/ I'm done typing now

For a carb noob, you picked probably one of the hardest carbs to learn on, but after you figure it out, damn near any other carb will be a cake walk. Don't get me wrong, Webers are one of the best designed carbs and can be tuned more precisely than most, which is a double edge sword. Redline has a bunch of dicks working there and they will not help you and they do not care. We'll help you out and get you back in the 20-30 MPG range. Use RTV, or copper coat to seal gaskets, not grease. It works, but I would only do it if I had too...like if I was on the side of a trail doing a carb rebuild. I wouldn't expect it to seal for very long. Your target idle range when warm should be around 550-650 RPM.. Where are you at? When its idling, you shouldn't heard sharp popping(almost like frying bacon) coming from the air horn. It should just sound like air being sucked in. You said the idle speed screw is all the way out, how many turns is your fuel mix screw out? Ideal range on the fuel mix screw is 1 1/4-2 1/4 turns out and the idle speed screw should be somewhere between 0 to 3/4 turn out. Whats your cold idle speed? Does it "kick down" after its warm? Look for a round little can that gets 12V when running...I'm assuming you have electric choke, thats your choke coil and should be secured with three small screws. Loosening those screws and rotating the can is how you adjust your choke, but for now just make sure its not holding the throttle open. If it is, just back it off. Wait on setting your cold idle speed until you get the warm idle figured out, but if your choke is too tight, it will think its always cold and always dump extra fuel and run a fast idle. Your cold idle is set by another screw near the choke coil, thats your cold idle screw, sometimes they can be cranked it so far, it will hold the throttle open regardless of what the choke is doing so check that too.

One thing that helped me when I did mine, was putting the bearings in the freezer the night before, and after the knuckle was clean, putting the knuckle in the oven at 150 degrees. A LOT less beating involved. Getting the bearings from a bearing supplier instead of a parts house will save you $$, plus you can also run sealed bearings, which last longer and don't rely on the stock seals. The bearing number is 6207. The sealed ones are 6207-2RS. I recently bought a full set of 6207-2RS(4 bearings) of front bearings for $50($12 each), instead of napa/carquest/autozone's $42 for one unsealed. Mcguire Bearing is the place I went, they had 80 of them instock at the Seattle warehouse last I checked.

You could also just drill two 1 1/4"(36mm) holes in a piece of 1 1/4" thick Aluminum bar using a hole saw, properly spaced to fit a weber and weld that on. If you have a spool gun, you could also use a mig to weld it on. A DFAV needs 1 1/4" using stock ford linkage, but an actual DG series weber may need less...maybe and 1" I'm running a DFAV, 1 1/4" spacer 3" tall filter with no lift and theres about 1/4" betweeen the hood and the filter

I was low on cash when I did mine too(ok, well, I'm still low on cash..). Pulled my DFAV off a ford courier(but it was originally off a pinto) from pull a part for $30 and spent about $100 rebuilding it and gathering materials for the adapter plate. I used some 1 1/2"x1/4" flat bar for a braket to hold the stock throttle cable and spent another $20 for a universal cable to ballstud adapter to make the linkage work. So for $150 and a few days work, I got a great running carb and everything to make it work. One thing to remember is that DF's aren't made by weber, they're made holley for Ford, so tolerances are a little bigger, but it makes them less finicky IMO. I have previous experience working on DF's and I should warn you that some of them have "personally".... For example, mine came with a #90 primary idle jet, which is for a 2.3L ford, but when I was tuning it for my EA82, it ran better with no primary idle jet. Its happy like that, has great power, runs smooth and better MPG's than the hicrappy it came with..like I said, some DF's have "personality". DF's can also run fine anywhere between 2psi to 9psi, unlike the webers 2-3 psi range. Alot of them you find in the JY are banged up on top of the fuel bowl near the inlet and thats normal, because when the needle sticks from crap in the fuel, a quick tap right there will free it up.

I'm running a DFAV off a 71-73 ford pinto(which napa, carquest can get for $150)and it works great. I heard multiple stories of bad adapter plates coming from Redline, so I made my own, which also allowed me to port the intake out to help move air. Don't expect ANY help from Redline, they're dicks. I used a DGEV electric choke to convert it to electric from water and I also removed the choke pull off to simplify the carb. The DF series also has the choke on the back side when installed, so it doesn't hit your power steering pump for a cleaner install. I did have to re-jet it though, and put in a new emulsion tube, all of which takes 5 mins to do.

Its been a while since I worked on my weber, but I think the 2000-2500 flatspot symptom is solved with bigger mains, they're the ones at the bottom of the fuel bowl.

Ha! good luck getting anything out of Redline! They're lazy and not too interested in helping anybody...I'm not sure they even want to sell parts. My parts guy who deals with them on a wholesale level told me, "yeah, they're d-bags, but they got all the weber stuff" Check your manifold too. When I installed a Weber on my GL, I used a mill file to flatten out the carb mating surface on the intake. My manifold had some hills and valleys I had to knock down, the lowest point being the water jacket. Another thing that can give you hell is when studs or bolts stretch threads out of a hole, not strip, just stretch. What happens, is the threads stretch out and create a shim around the bolt preventing the gasket from seating, but chamfering your holes out a thread or two with a normal 60 degree chamfer works great. After reading about the quality of the Redline adapters and not wanting to deal with their employee's charming personalities, I made my own adapter with $20 of aluminum bar stock and a hand full of bolts. I think I used a 1 1/4" hole saw in a drill press and ported out from there. I also moved the carb back about a 1/4" to help it breath better.

If you don't have 12V at the fan switch(blue wire), your blower relay is probably bad, but it could be a shot motor too. Its one of the silver little cans up behind the fuse panel. Instead of replacing it with a stock style, use blade connectors and run a standard 30A 4 or 5 blade automotive relay. You can find them by the thousands at JYs on any domestic car or truck. If your relay and motor is OK, and you need a fan to get you by, you can run a jumper off the ground wire on the fan motor. Unplug the socket and test to see which one is dead, thats NEG.. Plugged in both sides should be hot, but if you back probe a ground wire to the NEG. side, it will turn. Only speed you get is high, but it will get you by.

I'm going 6":grin: Future plans involve rock sliders that will probaly end up turning into a subframe/unibody stiffener. I also need the room under the lower core support for a winch. I really like the breakover angle a 6" has too