El Presidente

Don't forget if your running a carb, try adjusting the fuel mixture screw after filling up with real gas. If your tuned for E10, your likely running slightly rich now and you willn't see all the benefits if your running too rich.

Your welcome! I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm glad I can contribute:banana: Yeah, I can understand %100 the frustration with the bureaucracies concerning this subject, but I like the idea of keeping on topic:grin:. One way everybody can help the cause, is to sign the petition on the pure-gas website. Their goal is 10,000 signatures and its at 8,431 now...help them help you! Ethanol just isn't a "green" fuel. The only good thing you can use ethanol for is: 1. Making serious HP in highly modified motors(which get horrible, horrible MPG's) 2. Getting really drunk around a bond fire with a couple buddys..take a swig and pass the jar on! Thats it. Its benefits simply don't out weight the cons when it comes to widespead use in gasoline. I agree we're going to run out of crude at some point, but all ethanol is doing is side tracking valuable resources and time, as well as preventing a real solution from being discovered or used.

I don't know if this has been discussed here(I searched and found nothing), but I've been running ethanol free gas for a while. I noticed a difference right away the first time I filled up with "the good stuff". It is a little more expensive, I filled up last at $3.80 and the Shell down the street with E10 was at $3.72, but the difference is worth it. I've done the math and I spend less on gas AND get a smother idle, better acceleration and even better MPG's(3-5mpg's)...even in my Jeep! Ethanol free gas can have interesting results in newer vehicles, but runs great in anything 95ish and older especially if its carburated, but be aware that you may run rich if your tuned in for E10, but all I've ever had to do is lean out the mixture screw a half to full turn. Fuel injection motors will happily adjust themselves to what they're designed to run on. I encourage anybody to try it out, here a link that can help you find it in your state and area. http://pure-gas.org/ Lets support these gas stations to make sure they don't go away! I only use E10 when I have to now!

This table(not the link) is not right for every situation and should be considered a "base level" to start at. The numbers given are the same as 120V residential code, but not based off them. The amperage ratings are on the small side for 12V to avoid voltage drop, but, for example you can put much bigger fuse on a gauge size, just as long as the distance your going isn't too long and the startup load isn't too much. I've re-wired a few cars and this is the size wire I use for each circuit, but in the end it depends on each application. I do tend to over-gauge circuits. My advice is to look and see what each fusible link circuit does, look up the gauge size in the chart(in the link in my last post) and then make a call on the "base level" table I posted. If in doubt, go a fuse size smaller than what you think it should be, just test it out and if you burn it up, put a bigger one in. Because fusible links are not precision rated fuses, your gonna have to do a little thinking for yourself. I know the black one is for the charging circuit, so whatever your alternator is putting out, stick with that. 60amps is stock. When I install my 140amp CS144, I'm going to need to upgrade the charge wire to 02ga or bigger, as well as the fuse:banana:.

I just go off the wire size in the circuit, because thats what the fusible links protect, the wire itself, not the load(lights, fan etc.). I do this by looking at what size is leaving the fusible link and then use a table like this: 10ga. - 30amps 12ga. - 20amps 14ga. - 15amps 16ga. - 7.5amps I based this off of a table like this one: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm So if you have a 14ga wire, just use a 15amp fuse and you should be OK.

Couple reasons, getting replacement fusible links can be hard or expensive. Getting replacement blade fuses is easy and cheap. If your upgrading your alternator, you need to get rid of the black fusible link any way, and put in an appropriate fuse for what the alternator is putting out. One of the big reasons to get rid of fusible links, is voltage drop. Fusible links are horriblely inefficient conductors and after yanking them out and replacing them with blade fuses, you can sometimes get a volt or two more at the fuse box and other constant-hot circuits. That translates to better running electronics, brighter lights, faster blower fan etc.

IIRC some parts stores can make wires to order, they just cut what you need crimp some ends on and your on your way. I've never had to do this but I hear its fairly cheap. Option #2 is to use an accel or MSD universal wire set and have two goods sets(they're for a V8). They have a couple in the set that are really long. Option #3 is to move your coil closer to your dizzy, along with extending your 12V coil supply wire.

X2 on Evans Creek Theres Tahuya too over by Belfair, but I've never been out there. Where ever you go, just don't go alone, make sure you have at least one other able body in your rig. Things can happen and having another person there can be a life saver.. literally. 10 essentials are a good idea too. There's offroad groups that meet all the time and do runs all over, I think theres a group of subaru guys that meet up in Mount Vernon once a month. Also, since your new to the offroad community, please be respectful of land we use. Theres alot of people who want the ORV parks shut down and its hard to defend its use, when some people who use it, leave it full of garbage and vandalized. Running off the trail pisses off the salmon people and letting diffs drain on the ground/leaving parts on the trail pisses off the EPA. Long story short, our funding gets cut, or our offroad land sold. If we're all cool about the rules, we're all gonna have a place to go:grin: IIRC You can maps from the DNR of forest service roads and I think they can tell you which ones are open too. I used to cruise the FS roads as a kid and found some cool stuff(cabins, logging equip., awesome views). They go on forever sometimes, so watch your fuel.

Yeah your right, Not the right way to do it, and probably not a good idea in general. Thanks for the input guys

I've cut output shafts on an NP242 tranfercase before while its in gear and it works great to ensure an even cut. Lots of guys running a NP242 in a Cherokee have done it for an SYE. I've also worked around large lathes, endmills, and various large machinery and as long as your safe and respect the forces involved, your fine. A lot of shops now turn rotors while they are still on vehicle, to reduce teardown/install time, and it works fine. Lol...I know where your coming from, but what I'm talking about isn't really too much far from redrilling a drum to a 6X5.5" lug. When I first saw a redrilled 6 lug hub, I thought "Ghetto", but after seeing them on the road, I've come around. I know rear disc turbo brakes aren't impossible to find, but lets face it, they're not getting easier to find and not getting cheaper. I see ea82 front disc setups all the time at the JY. I think its a idea that at least is worth consideration

From what I've read an electric fan from a EA81 with A/C fits with a couple extra screws. I guess the EA82 electric fan is too thick to use in place of the mech. fan. I haven't done this mod, but I'm planning to! You'll probably free a couple hp, but nothing exciting.

I've searched and found a little discussion about it, but nothing to say if its been tried or done. I want rear disc brakes, but don't want to use the harder to find turbo rear disc setup. I'm thinking cheap, from widely available parts, and how common are front EA82 disc's!. I'm thinking I could put my rig on all stands, start it, put it in gear and in 4WD-hi(with a helper inside for safety), and use an angle grinder to evenly cut the friction surface of the drum(where the shoes make contact) off and mark the 90mm circle(I think the bolt circle is 90mm) on the face for the front disc mounting holes. I do see the use of a spacer to go between the inside surface of the "drum hub" to the outside surface of the rotor to center the rotor, strengthen the new "hub", and allow room for the rotor bolts. A potential fubar situation is if the 90mm bolt cirlce is off center and the rotor isn't balanced anymore. With a cheap custom mounting bracket, you could run front calipers on the rear too, to take advantage of the e-brake lever. Has anyone tried cutting down the rear drums and mounting front EA82 discs to them? Has anyone attempted or actually put front brakes on the rear?

Amon Amarth! Best F#cking melodic death/viking metal ever! Any album, any song, but my favorite album is "With Oden On Our Side"... Also: Storm The Norwegian folk metal band, not the one out of SF Dethklok Ramallah Morbid Angel

Correct, pouring seafoam into your valve cover will just put it in your oil. Sorry, I was referring to an EA82 PCV valve and what I meant was to suck the Seafoam up throught the PCV hose coming off the intake, using engine vacuum. On an EA82, it is right below the carb and the most central vacuum port. When I talked about pouring a 1/6th in each side, I meant using a vacuum port on each side(like an emmisions vacuum port) of the carb. If your in doubt, just slowly pour it down the carb First, if your not, always use anti sieze on sparkplugs that are going into aluminum heads regardless of the motor. Anytime I've had to deal with stripped sparkplug holes, I pull the heads/head. I don't like risking having my motor eat aluminum shavings, but lots of guys do it with the heads on with no ill effect. I do recommend packing the drill bit and tap with grease to help grab any lose shavings though. The red "high-tack" axle grease works great, but makes a hell of a mess(its sticky and strings out like chewing gum). Another trick I've heard of, but never done, is to crank the motor over until the cylinder with the damages threads is on the intake stroke. Then duct tape/secure/ have a buddy hold a air nozzle on the intake/top of the carb so it shoots air into the motor. If its a carb, I recommend disconnecting the fuel line and if possible, drain the fuel bowl, because the air going down a carb will suck fuel from your system, possible filling your cylinder with petrol. You should feel air coming out of the hole with the damaged threads when you turn the air on. When your drilling/tapping, the air going down the bore, past the intake valve and into the cylinder, will blow the shavings out the flutes of the drill bit and tap reducing shavings to zero. Good luck

Ahh, Yeah I feel old. I know what your talking about, except me and my buds call them brownie boxes. They're just a 2 or 3 speed tranny mounted behind the primary tranny. I've seen them and used them on trucks and also on serious offroad rigs, but I think they only do good on serious offroad rigs with serious power. Suubs simply aren't hardcore offroad rigs, their more or less capable trail rigs. You could put one on a suub, but you mine as well be looking at 1 ton axle upgrades, custom drivelines, serious lifting(suspension, not body lifts, definitely not independent suspension anything), custom built control arms, brakes upgrade, steering upgrades, then you'd have to find room underneath your rig....You'd be better taking a suub body and putting it on a full framed 4x4 chassis. The reason you'd need a brownie box is if your turning big tires(35"+) over big rocks or pulling big loads. Their usually heavy too! A tranfercase doubler could be a better bet, but you have to ask yourself what you want to do with your rig. You'd still have to find room for two tranfercases, deal with the weight, and then enjoy breaking EVERY other part of your drivetrain(stock CV's would just explode). My Jeep has a 1:2.72 low range and I can increase that to 1:4 if I want, in the same TC. I can also use a Humvee(not hummer, they suck) drive chain and a center diff out of a dana 300 to make it nearly bomb proof. If I used my rig(the Jeep) for crawling, a TC doubler could get my low range around 1:8. At 1:8, I could tow a 3 ton(likely more than that) trailer at idle with NO problems and I'd also have 12 gear ratios availble, but I don't need to do all that and I'm more than happy with a 2.72 low range.

Without hearing it myself,I'm shooting in the dark, but my educated guess is that you might have a piece of RTV stuck in a lifter. If it is RTV, using ATF(basicly high detergent motor oil) or seafoam willn't do anything, because neither will breakup RTV. It could be an obstruction thats starving a bearing, but the noise would be more consistent(usually). Try pulling the valve covers and check the valve train for slop at the back of the lobe(valve closed the most), if one is noticably sloppier than the rest, I'd get a new lifter. Lifters are more likely to give you inconsistent symptoms. Good luck

I've used seafoam for years and it works great. 1/3 goes in a near full tank of fuel..real easy 1/3 goes in you intake while the motor is running. Get it up to operating temp and find a vacuum port that will evenly distribute the seafoam to both banks. The PCV hose may work, but because of the design of the suub intakes, I'd use a vacuum port on each side and put a 1/6(thats half of a 1/3) of a can in each port to ensure one bank doesn't get more than the other. Once you have your ports picked out, put a 2' piece of vinyl tube on the ports(port) that fits well. Pinch these off with a pair of vise grips or hemostats to control vacuum leaks. Start your motor. I usually have a friend hold the RPM's at about 1000-1200 RPM(to keep it from dying), then hold hose shut, by hand, and remove the vise grip/hemostat and put the end in the seafoam. Carefully release the hose a little at a time and let the engine vacuum suck the seafoam out of the can. It should take no more than a couple minutes to get all the seafoam in. Once its all gone, turn the motor off and let sit for about 20 minutes and then start it again. Rev the motor a little( it will run rough) till there no white smoke. Do this at night or somewhere far from other people/ houses, there will be LOTS of smoke that stinks bad and will likely get the fire department called. don't underestimate how much smoke there will be! Putting it down the carb bore is a little harder because the motor is more likely to stall, but it works fine. I don't recommend sucking it straight out of the can, instead divide the can into glasses, before starting so you can't put too much in one spot. Your only putting 1/3 can in the oil, so don't worry about it being too full, also the level of the oil willn't increase oil pressure. It will thin it VERY slightly, but not enough to worry about, just drive your rig around normally with this in the oil for no more than 200 miles, preferably right before an oil change. After the 200 miles, change your oil and be amazed at how black it is. Worn seals are worn seals, you may notice more oil leaks after seafoam, but if you like carbon build up holding your motor together, don't put it in your oil. The seafoam website has detailed info, and my advise is based on that, with a little experience thrown in.

Points(very old school): + side coil should be hot in run and start only. - side of the coil goes to the dizzy, which will have one wire. When the points make contact, you get spark. These require regular adjustment and points replacement to stay running correctly, but are as simple as you can possibly get. The points can burn up if you leave the key in the "run" position for too long while the motor isn't running. Breakerless/Electronic(better old school): + side coil is hot in run and start only. - side of the coil goes to the ignition module, which closes the circuit when it receives a pulse from the dizzy. The dizzy needs power in run and start to produce the pulse and where you get power from for the dizzy, depends on the system. The ignition module also needs a power source in run and start to operate. This system requires little to no maintenance other than usual cap/rotor/plug replacement. Electronic systems are also much better for performance and high voltage applications. Some, but not most, ignition modules can be damaged from leaving the key in the "run" position while the motor isn't running. A google search can give you a diagram for both If you have an electronic choke, it needs power in run only, if you want real old school your using a manual choke. If you want even older, old school, your dizzy isn't running a vacuum advance either, just a mechanical advance.

Anybody know if you can run a MPFI/Turbo P/S pump on a carb'd P/S steering rack? looking to get more out of my power steering when running bigger tires for when things get sticky on the trail. Thanks

Teflon is designed for tapered threads and willn't give you the protection that anti-seize will. Anti-seize has anti corrosive agents as well as particulate metals(usually AL, or CU) to prevent gaulling when pulling the bolt out. Teflon doesn't have either and willn't fill all the voids in the threads where corrosion likes to hide and build up. Anti seize will cause all your torque values to end up higher than your torque wrench is set for, because stock torque specs are for dry, clean threads, but ARP makes an automotive anti seize that gets it right where its suppose to be. I can't remember the name but I recommend it 110% Where teflon puts your bolts at is a toss-up because it doesn't uniformly fit in the threads Heli-coils(I only use heli-coil brand) with the appropriate grade steel bolt is better than replacing the bolt with a stainless one, because the quality of stainless can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most stainles grades can't be hardened too. Heli-coils work great for any damaged/ likely to be damaged hole, and leave the bolt hole stronger than before, they are also stainless, but I use anti-seize anyway to keep torque values the same between unheli-coiled and heli-coiled holes. I just put a Weber on my GL last week and 2 holes were toast and 2 were starting to get buggered up. Took me about 20 min. to heli-coil all 6 intake holes, just be sure to tape the intake ports up so your motor doesn't swallow a bunch of shavings. Also, set the coil about 1 1/2 turns UNDER the sealing surface, because thread stretch can interfer with the two pieces being joined.

You should be able to take your heads to your machinist and have them pull the valves and show you whats going on and give you some input for free. It used to take me just a minute or two to pull the valves on most 4 cyl. motors. The "C" clamp valve spring compressors are great, there are specific compressors for certain motors which usually lever off the cam(on OHC motors) or a rocker stud..they work great, but the "C" clamp ones can pull the valves in almost any motor. I can't say 100%, but I think most of the valve stem seals we installed were Felpro, or Sealed Power. Generally, I recommend both. Yes, its a straight forward head tear down procedure NEVER SAND ON YOUR VALVE STEMS! This can cause accelerated wear in the valve, valve stem seal, and/or valve guide. I can't count the number of motors that customers f'd up because they didn't know what they were doing and trying to save a couple bucks. If they are varnished up and your not having the valves ground, use carb cleaner and let them soak overnight. Heavily varnished valves are a sign of worn guides or valve stems. When looking at your valves, look for cracks, burns(this will look like the valve is out of round), uneven contact with the seat(1/2 to 3/4's of the valves face is shiny, the rest is dull and carbon'd up)..this could also be from a warped seat, look at the face for pitting, also look at the valve margin(there should be a small flat suface that goes around the very outside of the valve, if the seat goes straight out to the bottom of the valve, replace the valve). Check the stem tip for uneven wear and the stem itself for scoring and wear that would indicate a bent valve. Once again a machinist should be able to teardown your head and give you a quote for free or a nominal fee. They will likely also check the head face for warp, valve guides and visually inspect for cracks and other problems. $20 a hole is dirt cheap and I'd be very sceptical of the quality involved. Its likely an econo job that is just a 1 angle grind and a quick trip through the parts washer. Any good shop should be able to show you the work that was done BEFORE the head goes back together and give you a warranty on parts and labor. I used to be an auto machinist at ABCO machine(when they where in Sanwood WA.) and have machined more EA-81 heads than I care to mention. Our main subaru customer was Stratus Engines on Camano Island, WA.