El Presidente

Yeah, thats the stuff. Josh

Just unplug the battery pos+, wait a few minutes and then put it back on. Start the car and the code should be gone. The light usually goes right out for me, whats the resistance of the solenoids your using? Josh

Sedans have a two way lever next to the driver seat. On my loyale sedan I think i push down to open the trunk and pull to open the fuel door. Josh

Please elaborate and tell us where your getting your info. Ethanol burns cooler than gasoline and isn't reactive to commonly used metals, so how does it cause excessive wear to moving parts? How does it cause valve wear and ring damage? I hate ethanol, but we need to keep facts straight. If I'm wrong, please correct me. Josh

Digi-key, you need a 35 ohm 10 watt resistor. I have a couple ready to install for both the egr valve and the purge valve I'd be up for selling. All joints are soldered and the entire unit is sealed in rtv silicone and heat shrink tube. They have the stock plug that the old solenoids use so it fits right in. $20 - PM me if interested. Josh

Your right, my buddies xt FSM says the same thing. Josh

It doesn't always need vacuum. Your not understanding the problem, its has nothing to do with the vapor canister....Nothing...If the lines are intact, just stop looking there all together. Its an electrical issue that's located on your intake manifold. Follow the vacuum lines till one goes to a black boxish thing on the intake right behind the thermostat with a two wire plug. That's what you most likely need to replace or bypass with a 35 ohm resistor. Josh

I think the OP is referring to Ethanol which is added to most gas now. It decreases mileage by about 2-5 MPG's because the fuel maps in the ECU's run best on straight gasoline. It shows at idle to, if you've ever run ethanol free gas, you'll notice a smoother idle and better acceleration. Our cars just run better with %100 gasoline in everyway! Leaded fuel was no longer available after 1995. 2 strokes don't mind methanol, but hate ethanol. Newer 2 strokes are designed to run e10 with mix oil. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117539-ethanol-free-gas/ Josh Josh

Heading out from Jeff's place works for me. Josh

When I make strut lifts, I set the angle at 17-18* instead of 15*. The negative camber you gain helps with on-road manners. I'm pretty sure 15* will get you positive camber, which gets really annoying. Josh

I won't say "ej it", but if your gonna offroad it put an ea81 in there and run the ea82 spfi. LOTS of low end torque, MUCH more reliable, easier to work on, and amazing mpg's(35+). Its also a cheap swap. If your gonna get a cam regrind, don't waste the time and money trying to improve an ea82, put the effort into something worth building on. However, if you want to give your money to delta, give them a call. Josh

If what I've "seen" is anecdotal, than so is everything you've seen too. I've made plenty of lifts, but I've never made one with crossmember spacers simply because I've never seen the need and with the terrain we go through up here, these cars wouldn't last long. I'm not disagreeing that adding crossmember spacers can't hurt and do take stress of things, but what I'm saying, is that myself and everyone else I know, doesn't use them and we don't tear through tires or axles. If the car is going to stay on-road or the the lift is for a mall crawler, I think crossmember spacers make total sense. Again, I do not eat through tires or boots and I'm running tops only along with a ton of other people. My tire wear actually got better after lifting my car because the tires weren't riding on the outside edge when accelerating anymore. You don't have to agree because frankly I don't care, its a fact and unfortunately, those are unarguable. Also, my car does handles better than it did stock on-road and off. Again, you don't have to agree because its a fact. Back when I built my first lift I got info from one of your threads on the angle to cut the blocks at, which I recall was 17*. I added 2 degrees extra up to 19* and have ever since, maybe that's why you need crossmember spacers for your lifts? It could explain why your cars have bad handling when the geometry is max out. It should be mentioned to the OP that I've found some cars to be really forgiving to being lifted and some just don't like it, but starting with a good lift, Subaru axles and some idea of what kind of driving kills axles is a good start. Josh

You're either trolling my threads or you're stupid. Look at the pictures Uberoo, see that 50lb piece of metal under my car? Josh

What are my chances on stock rear axles with no transfercase? Josh

Nope, nobody else could make it and I had other stuff to do. Josh

No worries, there's always next time. Josh

This run was a small group of Rick, Pat and myself, but it was really fun and really laid back. Carnage was just one of my stub axles and Pat bent a strut near the end. We started up Timber Tamers and the trail was great, you could tell that DNR was in there recently and they put together a really rough hill climb that was a good way to start the day. After that I got distracted by a nice mud hole that I played in on the last trip at the bottom of Cavanaught trail. It was deeper and funner this trip, but I got stuck on the second run through and also failed to roll up my window.....About 5 gallons of mud went up in the air about 20ft. and then went right down in the driver window, hitting the side of my head and then directly on my lap. I shook the mud off and we cruised up Cavanaugh trail and then hit Rons Run which has gotten really dug out around the big rock. It was a great trip and the weather was awesome! Josh

Josh

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=suspension+camber I only bring up the camber issue because the lifts that I've seen that do eat axles are not made right and make the wheels sit with positive camber. The EA82 lift blocks are suppose to be at a 17-19* angle to match the existing suspension geometry. If the blocks are built with the correct angle, you will have equal or better than stock camber. If its positive, the angles are off and you probably want a new lift. A 2" lift can be bought for $50 if you look around and built for $20 if your inclined to make it yourself. I'll say it again, the cross member drop might correct camber issues slightly, but all your doing there is polishing a dog turd because the lift blocks are no good if the camber is positive to begin with. If its positive, fix it right and get new blocks. A crossmember drop will take stress off the axles, which helps, but again, if you get the right axles, its not an issue. I wouldn't say a 2" lift with no drop causes extreme axle angles, but it does max it out. Once you get good axles and a boot does tear, Dorman has really good silicone replacement boots that are a lot tougher than the stock rubber ones. Josh

Sorry to hear you guys can't make it. Zap, Brian and Nick, are you guys still in? Josh

Wait.. If you just get a decent lift and axles, you dont have to mess with all this extra stuff. I've dd a few 2" lifted cars on 27's and I didn't have any axle issues. When you first lift a car the axles usually don't last long because they are broken in at a certain angle, but if you get some good rebuilt subaru axles, you'll have a good start. Next is how you drive. Don't power it/accelerate through corners and coast instead. Accelerate slowely, not having sway bars gives the front complete mobility and when you goose it, the front will raise up and the axles will be at tight angles. This is usually when axle boots tear for me. Another thing is avoid turning at full lock, this is another point that boots tend to tear. Drive it like your grandma in a truck and your car will love you. Get some rebuilt subaru axles. Do not get "new axles" and expect part house axle rebuilds to not last long. I got 3 axles from oriellys and they used light machine oil in the DOJ instead of cv grease...it got really scary when the DOJ decided to make my car hop while going down the freeway. I know Shawn has connections to get axles and I think hes in your neighborhood. I've never used crossmember spacers and I've never seen an EA82 with them on a 2" lift. Cross member spacers might correct camber issues, but all your doing there is polishing a dog turd because the lift blocks are no good if the camber is positive to begin with. A 2" lift with no drop will not eat tires if the lift is made right. Josh

X2 Twin I Beams are great, but I'd never even consider them on a subaru. No, they're not tough on tires if aligned correctly, but they do have horrible ground clearance, which is why you never see them on trails, but all the time on the road. Ford started using Twin I Beams in '65 and if you'd ever driven in a straight axle rig and then hopped in a Twin I Beam rig, its night and day. The Twin I Beam system gave Ford a huge edge over everyone else because the ride was like driving a car, it was easier to align, and because of the simpler design, it was cheap to produce and maintain. Sumco: Are you planning on jumping your car? If so you need to work out a frame before you think about suspension. If your going for looks and functionality on the trail, go with a 3 or 4 link setup. Josh

Yes Its better for your engine to run without an egr anyway. I usually take the threaded end off the metal tube and weld a bolt in the center hole, then throw it back in. The last motor I did I didn't have a welder nearby so I cut the tube, but I left a piece of the tube with the flared fitting. Then I dropped a screw upside down in the egr hole and put the threaded end/pipe piece back in the egr hole, worked great. Josh

Bump for next Sunday Josh

Thanks for fixing the title! Josh