El Presidente

Evens Creek is my vote Josh

Just a heads up, noaa is saying there's a 90% chance of showers and theres gonna be snow up in the higher elevation trails. High temps are gonna be around 40, lows around 30. Should be good and sloppy like last time!! I'm bringing a shovel for Rick...lol Josh

Nothing to update yet. Between work slowing down in the winter and going back to school, my wallets been thin lately. Work is picking up again though and I see something happening soon. I'll keep you guys up to date Josh

I'll be there. See ya Saturday Josh

Video of Butters: This is where we got stopped and the digging started...

Definitely a fun trip!! First part of the day was mostly mud and Jessie jumping a stump and almost(seriously a sight to have seen) rolling his rig, then we headed higher up and hit the snow later in the day...a little too much snow near the end. What seemed like 6" of snow ended up being 24" deep, and some of us had a difficult time staying on the trail. I'll post some pictures when I get back to my windows computer, I just put a linux based OS on my netbook and I haven't figured how to connect my phone yet.. My phone is new too, so I haven't figured out how to work it either. I'll get my pics up soon. Josh

I just got another wheeler and I'll be up to go with you guys another day. I still gotta go through it and get it trail worthy. I didn't respond back earlier, because I had hoped to have everything together sooner and be able to make it tomorrow. Have fun and take pictures! Josh

I agree with you that changing the name, imposing charters or rules won't help get guys to come out and wheel. But I think you missed the point there. The whole reason for those suggestions was to lay out an organized structure and help protect the name of the club. When someone is wheeling in an illegal area and its reported to the police, that "it was a lifted subaru with a NWWO sticker on it", they'll do a quick google search and eventually give Jeff a call because his name is tied to NWWO. I wasn't suggesting anything extensive, just simple common sense things, like no illegal wheeling, taking your sticker off if you sell it, and maybe requirements to get a sticker like a minimum of runs your need to go on. lol...I would never argue that Subarus can go where Jeeps and Yotas do on tiny stock axles, I'm not sure who would, they suck(the axles that is), and worse yet, they're getting harder and harder to find. To clarify, I never said I want to just keep wheeling easy trails...thats why I'm in the process of getting my rig ready for a SAS...I explained that in my reply to Scott ... Once I have my SAS done, I'll still wheel with other Subarus on 27's and I'll also wheel with Yotas and Jeeps on 35's. The whole reason I want to see this club stay alive is to give guys a chance to get out on the trails on a shoestring budget or guys who just like wheeling Subarus. I first started wheeling Subarus when I was on unemployment and couldn't afford to build or run my Jeep anymore and realized its actually funner. I was also starting to get bored with Jeeps and Yotas, because I think they're just too easy to wheel and build, and I wanted more of a challenge. I realize that doing a SAS/transfercase swap will get me in the realm of Jeeps and Yotas, but don't all rigs end up getting axles swaps/regearing eventually? The whole reason for the idea of county reps is to make building rigs easier, wheeling trips more frequent and diverse, and to make it easier for more guys to get to the trails....that I think, would help make a bigger roster of fellow enthusiasts. Josh

I hear what your saying about making a rig thats better built. I'm eventually going to run a toyota tranny, a real transfer case, a ford 8.8 in the rear, and a HP dana 30 in the front both geared to around 4.56 to 4.88 for 33-35" tires. I love how light the Subaru body is and think its a great platform for modding. BUT, if we have minimum requirements of straight axles and winches, we are going to exclude %99-98 of the guys who want to wheel subarus. When considering club rules I think its more important to consider rules that make it run better and invite new guys to join in, rather than to exclude guys. Most guys simply don't have the time or money to modify our rigs like you have and I think a lot of guys just don't want to. They like their rigs mildly modified and are happy running stock drivetrain and taking lighter trails. I think at its core, the average tire size will always be 27-31" because thats what most guys can fit on a stock drivetrain, but I can see the potential for a highly modified chapter once we get more organized and better established. I don't see why a highly modded rig can't wheel along side a EA82 with a 2" lift and 27's, the guy in the highly modded rig just needs to realize everybody can't do what he can or go as fast as he can. Even in a fully built Jeep, I personally like taking my time and the whole point is to have fun, and if your not, I'd evaluate where your at. I'd hate to lose your support for the club, but I've seen you get irritated when we've been out wheeling because the smaller rigs take a little longer to get through obstacles. If you do move away from club, I understand, most of us like taking our time and have a more relaxed approach and pace. I've been invited to wheel with some of my old Jeep buddies, but I know I'll just break stuff moving at their pace and slow everybody down, so I've declined. I think all makes should be welcome, but it is a Subaru club and its gonna move at a Subaru pace. Josh

Ok, I'm gonna get involved in this discussion.. I think by signalling the end of NWWO it allows us to move on to a more organized Subaru offroad club. I like the idea of county or regional sub divisions and I think it will allow more guys to go wheeling because trips will be located closer to where you live, but still keep us together under one club name. With the way NWWO is currently set up, a lot of the trips are based out of Skagit county, which is a trip in its self to get to for a lot of guys in places like Auburn, Tacoma, and even other states like Idaho, Oregon and Montana. Places like Evans creek is closer for guys south of Seattle and its a legit ORV, if the Pierce/King county guys want to go wheeling, than we should organize a trip to Evans Creek or Elbe Hills. Because the destination is closer to the guys in Pierce/King county, the hope is to get better turn outs for the trips and make offroading your Subaru easier and funner. Also by having trips easier to get to and easier to set up, more detailed trips can be planned. Overnight wheeling trips would be easier to organized as well as trips to further destinations when you have guys next to you to help out. Getting guys who live next to each other to communicate would also help all of us make better rigs...maybe theres a club member 10 mins away who would help you with that EJ swap, maybe theres another club member thats 5mins away that has a welder that would be more than willing to help you weld your rear diff up or help with a solid bumper....Maybe your in a pinch and need a control arm because you fubar'd yours on a rock and need help swaping it out. You could argue thats what the forum is for, but I see an offroad club getting guys away from their computers and more face to face through a common goal of wheeling. See what I'm getting at? Of course if the Peirce/King county guys are going to Evans Creek or even Tahuya, than I think any other guys in the club that want to go are more than welcome, regardless of what county/region/chapter they belong to. Non members should be able to go too, but there should be minimum requirements. Like for EA82's at least 2" lift, d/r tranny and min. 27" allterrain or mudterrain tires. Any suggestions for EJ's? they are afterall the future of subaru offroading.. I think it would be good to stay under one name and not divide into small fractured groups to keep the strength of the club going. Right now we are looking for guys to step up and represent your area. Its not a big commitment, just taking a call or two from local Subaru club members/fanatics, help guys get started(you'll have the support of others, so don't worry) and announce on the board when when you have a trip planned. Of course the whole point is to get out and hit the trails, so if your not setting up trips, your not giving the opportunity to fellow members, who look to more experienced guys for leadership. Unfortunately the position doesn't pay:), but the work is minimal and it will keep the club going. If nobody wants to help out at all, there will be no Subaru offroad club, because there will be no one to run it. At best, trips will be few and far between and guys will lose interest. How the club is structured and how organized is entirely up to us as a whole. NWWO was loosely run(nothing wrong with that), but I think some of us are seeing that some more organization would help get more guys on the trail and take ALL the organization off of Jeff's shoulders. Here are some of my thoughts: Club charter - Should we have one? Is that too organized? I'm thinking just a set of rules regarding how the club is structured and who gets club stickers(maybe after a couple runs or maybe county/regonial vote) and code of conduct if you run with a sticker on your car...its a free country and under our great American flag you can be an idiot, but I don't think its to much to ask that you not go offroading at Discovery park in Seattle with our sticker on your car. Stuff like that makes all look bad and lets be honest..some people need it spelled out. I don't want a charter that punishes anybody or enforces rules, I think everything should be on the honor system. The club will be what we make it. Club Structure - Assuming each county/region has a represenative/captain/leader and is in charge of LOCAL trips, how should larger trips be planned?...for example, lets say some of us want to do a yearly Naches trail trip and want to get as many guys as possible, How would that get organized or proposed? Would it get organized between county reps.? Should there be a club leader/president/overlord..lol? How should reps be decided? Voted in? I know some organization may seem constrictive or unnecessary, but I'd like to be apart of a club that runs well, has frequent..at least semi frequent trips and has active members. When I go on a trip I'd like to see a line of beat up, lifted Subarus going up to the trails and not a blip of 2 or 3. Maybe I'm dreaming, but I think its worth a shot.. Regardless of the existence of a club, me and many others will still wheel Subarus, so when we are talking about the end of NWWO, we are talking about ending that club, not Subaru offroading. I'm far to committed to just give up now:) Any thoughts? Critizisms? If you want a Subaru offroad club, than speak up and be heard...you have just as much of a stake in this as the rest of us. Josh

Sorry, but I'm right and you need to research this subject further... We are talking about EA82's and that should be considered in this discussion, we are not talking about newer more modern EGR's, which do have a lot less problems and run much more efficiently. As I stated, it only affects high rpm performance, but it does, although slightly. These motors(EA82's) need all the help they can get so even a slight increase in power is welcome to most. The "dirt" that is allowed into the intake charge is carbon deposits from the exhaust stream. It is these same carbon deposits that make EGR's go bad...when they go bad, they stay shut, which can throw CEL's or they stay open at lower RPMs, which affects idle, causing idle issues. If you pull your egr, and look at it, you'll see these deposits I'm talking about. Theres no need to adjust timing curves after removing the EGR too. I've pulled many EGR's on many different motors of many different makes. I've NEVER seen a decrease in power or milage, ONLY and increase... This is because at higher RPMs, you get more combustible intake charge into the combustion chamber increasing efficiency, therefore increasing power and mileage. When inert gas(exhaust gas) is introduced in to the intake charge, it basicly decreases the effective displacement of the motor. If removing the ERG is for dummies, why don't you see them on ANY non-DOT approved performance oriented motor?...The reason is that EGR's are sole for emmisions, lowering nitrogen oxide to be specific, and many motors that have come after the EA82 DO NOT have EGR's including some of the EJ motors, like my 93' EJ22(which I didn't remove, because they don't come with one). This subject has been beaten to death on many forums, including here, so if I haven't convinced you, I encourage you use the search function or google and look for yourself. To get back to the OP questions, The PVC routing can be found here on the forum using the search, its really simple. As mentioned before, If you have inspections, I'd keep everything stock, which means a weber may be out for you. Josh

Keep it simple and leave everything off, you don't need it and you'll get better performance without them. EGR's decrease your performance by allowing inert gases into the intake charge at higher RPM, which basicly reduces the displacement of the motor. They allow a bunch of dirt and soot into you motor too and also frequently casue idle problems. The carbon canister catches gasoline vapors from the tank that would normally get vented off. In theory they do give you better MPG's, but we're talking very small amounts. Both systems are strictly for emmisions. With a Weber the only vacuum lines you need/what is for your brake booster, dizzy, HVAC controls, and PCV system...if you have cruise you'll need a line for that too. The panty hose on the valve covers was to replace the PCV system...you don't need this system, but is does help the motor last longer by getting caustic gases out of the crankcase. It also creates a small amount of vacuum in the crankcase, which helps the rings seal and reduces oil leaks(slightly). There are good reasons to get rid of it though..I disconnected my PCV system when I had an EA82 in my wheeler. When I'd get it off camber all the oil would sit on one side of the motor and the PCV system would start sucking oil into my intake. This can also happen when taking really hard turns on the street, but you gotta really get into it to do that. If its staying on the street, I'd run a PCV..your oil will be cleaner, longer. Josh

IIRC it should be the same as a normal EA82 throwout bearing, but if you can't find a solution, just run EA82 4wd wagon clutch parts, but make sure your flywheel is ground to xt6 spec. Thats what I'm running, granted I have an EJ22, but it should be more than enough for an EJ25. I daily drive mine on 31's and I never have slippage issues, even offroad. Josh

Check this stuff out. If you follow the directions and prep it properly it will never come off. I used it to line the wheel wells in in my old Jeep after tubing it out and the only time it came off was when I got a rock the size of a melon stuck between my tire and the fender well. A quick tap of the skinny pedal spit it out, but took a dime size piece with it and left a nice sharp dent too.Through Durabak, Its available in a wide variety of colors and is almost identical to Hurculiner, which you can get at Orielly's in black. grey, and I think red. http://www.durabakcompany.com/ Heres a review of it with install tips: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/durabak-23027.html Josh

You got the wrong kind. You got a heavy duty thermal flasher and you need the timer style. There are also LED conversion specific flashers, but they're the same..they use an electronic timer and not a bi-metal foil. The timer style ones have a little circuit board with a couple resistors, some capacitors, a transistor or two, and a relay on it. All the ones I have seen and used are in a clear plastic case and not a round aluminum housing. I've done this conversion before too and it works. Josh

It isn't necessary to keep the steering wheel straight when aligning your car, but it helps. I never have on any of the cars, trucks or rigs I've aligned, but it does keep the steering wheel oriented in its original position. If the steering wheel is a little to one side, I've always just popped the steering wheel off and put it back on so it looks good...however if it gets too far out of wack the "lock to lock" can be different, meaning it will turn sharper one direction than the other. I generally avoid going to a full lock, because its hard on CV axles, or on a straight axle rig, its hard on u-joints. Toe plate are ideal, but knowing how to adjust your toe with just a tape measure..or even a piece of string, is a good thing to know. I've knarled up tie-rods on rigs before and had to straighten them out on gravel parking lots to get home without losing a bunch of tire tread. I also have extended radius rods, which increases my castor..that may explain why my rig likes toe out. My tires wear evenly and not on the outside edge, like most lifted Subarus. Josh

You also can't compare the traction you get from a welded diff to an LSD or torsion diff for what your doing. It sounds like you don't really have a reason not to do it ...Keep us posted with updates! Josh

Keep us posted on how it goes...it can seem really complicated, but once you do it a couple times, its as easy as changing the oil. If your really having a hard time we could meet up somewhere and I can show you first hand how I do it. If we found a flat enough parking lot, we could get you straightened out right there. IIRC all you need is a 14mm and 17mm wrench. Theres a notched spot on the tie rod(14mm) you can use to turn the tie-rod to move the wheel in or out, that way you don't have to keep taking the tie-rod end off and on all the time. The 17mm is for the lock nut. Josh

Probably just a bad belt. When it comes to belts, I only use Gates or OEM Subaru. You probably don't need new pulleys, but I'd leave the belt covers off and watch it run, you might be able to spot the problem while everything is turning. If you want to, you can throw the belt covers away..it makes inspections more frequent(anytime you pop the hood) and it makes changing belts a 10 min job. Only time it was ever a problem for me was when I was fording about 3' of water with an inch of ice on it. Ice got in the cogs and snapped my pass. side belt..luckily I disabled my clutch start switch so I was able to drive out on my starter. Josh

On any flat tappet or non roller rocker motor I run Shell Rotella T. It comes in 10w30 and thats what I run in EA82's, and now my swapped EJ22. If its a tired old worn out motor(non-subaru) it will get 15w40 or 20w50 Rotella T. Josh

lol...Thanks for sharing!! The questions start running through my head.. Does it have HG issues? What about timing belts? Is next years model a Krups EJ automatic coffee maker?

I've only adjusted toe settings, but all I've ever used is a tape measure and a flat surface. Just measure the front of the tire, measure the back and get it close to were you think it should be. Take it for a test drive and see how it drives. If it needs adjustment, measure the front and back(so you have a reference point) adjust it a little and then roll the car back and forth a couple times to relieve twisting in the sidewall. Measure it again and you should see a change, if it looks like it would work, take it for another drive. Rinse, repeat and keep adjusting from there till it feels right If it pulls to one side after adjustment(it likely will), kept in mind which tire to adjust....one will toe the tires out to straighten it out and the other will toe the tires in to straighten them out. Before adjusting anything, I always take measurements first and write them down. Once you get the tires working together, adjust both sides evenly to try and keep them that way. When test driving: excessive toe-in will feel like the front-center is dragging and sluggish. Turns will be solid and maybe tough to do Excessive toe-out will feel similair, but turns are darty and may get squirrelly at highway speeds Josh

Thats interesting how everybody is toed in and not out. IIRC, the first time I was fine tuning, I tried 1/8" toed in, because thats where I've always started from. I took it for a test drive and really noticed the tires scrubbing, so I toed it out till it stopped and settled around 1/8" out. My subaru was the first FWD car I aligned myself and I found this odd. I checked a couple websites about doing alignments at home and I kept reading that FWD cars need a toe out, because they end up with a toe-in when the wheels pull everything forward. My bushings aren't shot either, my tire wear is even, it tracks straight and it doesn't pull...could just be my rig..These cars have been known to have "personality". Josh

You want your front tires toed IN on RWD cars. FWD cars need toe OUT..The reason for this is because the suspension compresses on a FWD car when moving forward bringing the toe in. If its already toed in, you'll end up with the outside of the tires being scrubbed, because of excessive toe-in. I just use a tape measure to get it close and to monitor changes, but otherwise I fine tune it with test drives. I don't use the sidewalls because they've proven to me to be unreliable, instead I just hook the tape on a spot on the tread and always use the same/similar spot on the tread pattern. My toe is out in the front and 1/8" on my subaru, when I had my Jeep(RWD), I had the front roughly 3/16" toed in. Josh

What size hammer are you using? I've got a harbor frieght 3lb. mini sledge that saved my butt when I last pulled rear axles. I smack a hell out of it for a while while rotating the cup so it didn't bind up. It will come off, just be persistent. When re-assembling I always use copper anti-seize on the stub shafts and spindles to prevent them from seizing again. Makes the pins a breeze to remove too. Take care with the stub shaft retainer bolt, they're aluminum and your really gonna hate life when you strip it out and they aren't hard to snap either. I say you just find some hatred somewhere and keep hitting it. It'll give. Josh