motzingg

+1 i pulled out some pretty nasty front end damage on my brat with a forklift and a sturdy post. the actual front bumper/radiator support pieces will probably be all you need, those might be more compatable with the wagon instead of being 3-door specific.

woah... are these engines common internationally or just a race only thing? we didn't get them in the u.s. right? is it just the heads/cam that were different with the longblock or was there work done on the bottom end? sounds like an awesome little motor. know of anywhere with more info on these?

hey phil! the first generation EJ22's are the best, from what i understand. that would be 89-94 legacy. Thats what my new leggo is. you get dual port heads without all the head gasket issues the later models had. Its OBD-1 EFI, and the 4EAT that comes attached is real bombproof. Desmond jones has a EJ22 swap in his brat, one of the later model higher output ones from a late 90's impreza i think. The swap was kinda hacked together with some electrical issues, also issues with cooling, and a nasty habit of breaking CV shafts. Also, the gearing of the EA trans and axles is too low. Personally, i think the brats are great with the EA81. In the next year or so i'd like to have mine running the high compression EA71 pistons, a weber carb, and the delta cam, with some porting hoping for 110-120 hp and better than 25 mpg. besides the EJ's loose that wonderful asymmetrical exhaust note that i've come to love so dearly.

Ok so i've done a bit of digging around.. that fedhill looks like the place to go, awesome! So i guess the big difference is the 37 deg single flare vs. 45 deg double flare vs. japanese 'bubble' flare. the last time i replaced brake lines in the brat, i went to the auto parts store bin and bought a 4' chunk of 'metric' brake line. I used a 3/16 crimp connector to mate it to the existing line. I would assume that was a 'bubble flare' line that i bought. So the solution would be A) buy all the right stuff starting with jap standard, rent the tool from FEDHILL for a week, and replace all the lines and only the lines with new jap 'bubble flare' lines. convert all the fittings to US style double flare and rent the fedhill tool and re-do the lines and fittings with commercially available adapters. c) convert all the fittings to US-style single flare (37 deg) and use the cheapo tool- drilling out and replacing with -2 (1/8") pipe holes where necessary in the brake components. As it is right now, given that i have access to everything needed to do 37 deg single flare, option C is looking like my best bet. I was planning on refinishing all my calipers, drums, etc etc so while i'm at it might as well replace seals, sand blast them, and do a proper job of it, drilling out the fittings to -2 NPT or using the replacement/adapter fittings. Plus all my fittings are already rusted to hell in place, so i might as well re-do them.

I'm very interested in this '$250' brake flaring tool. A guy i work with has a lot of experience with this, done a couple cars and trucks using the '$30 parts store special' I'm very much a 'high quality tools' type of person, so i'd like to use the good one if possible, but if the cheap one is just slightly more cumbersome, but still with good results i'd stick to that i guess. do they do metric? What fittings are standard and what fittings are metric? are the threads that go into the actual brake components themselvs metric? taper seal or some kind of o-ring? i found the 'classic tube' catalog, they seem like they really have their act together, about 20-25 bucks for each crimped SS line. thats probably cheaper than the parts store special rubber ones, eh? plus nice drawings and layout of all the fittings. I have access to a hydraulic hose crimping machine, but its hard to find the stainless fittings. i could get zinc plated and do rubber line fairly easily, but then again the corrosion issue comes up. having worked with both 'stainless braided' and regular hydraulic line, i'd probably choose the hydraulic for durability myself, but the fittings are going to corrode like crazy no matter what you do without stainless. the other option would be to run all the hard lines JIC with a conventional 37 deg single flare (i have good tools for that) and crimp an AN on the wheel end of the hose, or even adapt out the brake system fittings by using an adapter fitting or drilling and tapping for a standard hydraulic part. just some ideas... i'd like to get the whole system re-done for around $100, lets get creative!

oh man, bonerkill! forgot about the water, looks like we better get rolling on that woodstove STAT. I have some copper tubing at work that i might be able to devo to make a water heating coil. i'm also going to grab another 5 gal bucket of hyd. oil to make heater juice out of. all i need now is a chunk of heavy steel plate for the door, and some stovepipe to vent it out. the rest we can probably cobble. maybe this saturday we can make progress on it.

Yeah i looked at the different styles. it would be $70 for the 'heavy duty' 3". I want the one that mounts against the inner fender lip rather than the one that mounts flush, because If i have to cut my fenders out bigger, it will give it more clearance and help tie the inner fender plastic into the steel, rather than having to mount it on the face of the fender. I'm already missing most of the clips that hold the plastic inner fender to the steel quarter panel due to cancer. I loves me some stainless-steel pop rivets. Wire reinforced would be nice too, but some guy on the JCW reviews said that the 'heavy duty' has the hole for the wire, you just have to push some wire through it. Save a little$$ that way. Also started looking at the toyota 6-lug conversion. totally the way to go in my opinion. I've never liked how the 5 lug re-drilling works because of how close it comes to the old bolt holes in some places. The 6-lug makes much more sense to me, and 4runner parts are a dime a dozen in junk yards.

Actually, these i mean. http://www.jcwhitney.com/rubber-fender-extensions-fender-flares/p2008750.jcwx?skuId=142816&filterid=j1 you can get a 25 foot roll of the stuff for 75 bucks, not sure if that would be enough to do more than one car or not. Personally, i think it would be a pretty rad way to cut out all my wheel arch cancer, and re-attach the inner fender to the quarter panel. Cant wait for that frickin' tax return!

Cant wait to get the brat in there for some of the same treatment. how about u-bolts for mounting that fuel pump? you'd have to have access to the backside for the nuts, but i could thing of a few places to hide it. I'm thinking about these for when i re-do the brat http://www.jcwhitney.com/custom-fit-rubber-fender-flare-sets/p2008756.jcwx?filterid=d16935y1984j1&_requestid=9777545 so i can cut out the wheel wells a bit bigger without it looking too ************ty. 3" is a big flare, but they look pretty adaptable.